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Krisso NA-T Polish project


krisso_pl

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Im collecting all the parts and it will take about a month I think. Ive bought several parts here and on supraforums.com and now waiting for the post services to ring my door :D

What Im waiting for:

 

Custom welded intake manifold with 90mm flange (I have to buy Q45throttle)

XS Power Wastegate with screamer pipe and Greddy Catch Can from Ray007

HKS SSQV

GTR FMIC

550ccm injectors (They were in very good price so I bought them- I think they will do the work in 400-450hp range.

TT Headgasket

ARP headstuds

Rota GTR wheels

 

To the ECU - I write to the guy who invented that piggy and ask him for some write up in english - Im 100% sure ha have something like that because many Swedish Norwegian drift cars use his piggy.

I will keep this thread updated when the stuff arrives :D

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cool man sounding good. im planning on going the NAT route for def so keep it posted. what injectors did you get? are you ordering a 225 fuel pump with them?

i was planning on venting the sreamer into my exhaust wanna hear the whistle of the turbo dam thats gonna be loud fella!

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what model are they for, the UK TT? how many pennies did they cost u. asking as id like to follow route :) and piccies asap dude ;)

 

Truky I dont know what model are they from. Bought them from US and paid 100$ plus shipping :D

Today wheels and FMIC has arrived ;)

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where can I but new, stock Supra parts in UK, any seller here? Im looking for tranny mount (the rubber one under the car, bolted one side to the tranny and other to some aluminum piece) .At over 4,5k RPM something is making strange sound and it feels like its knocking on the body. When I stand under the car and push hard down on the tranny, that rubber pillow crush and make simillar sound when upper and lower edges of the pillow touch eachother.I hope ypu know what I mean:D Could be the cause? How stiff should it be when new?

Today evening I will post pictures of some parts and wheels ;)

Edited by krisso_pl (see edit history)
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7mgte injectors are TOP FEED and should go straight in. rx7 require modification to the clips so best to stay with toyota parts.

 

Wrong, 7mgte stock 440 injectors also require the clips to be modified, Im running them, just get 7mgte 440 injectors and cut the outside of the clip away, the'll still click into place ;)

 

what about the oil feeds and return. feed from the sandwich plate and return to the sump? presume this needs fabricating by someone?

 

can this conversion be done in the car as well as the head gasket or is it a engine out job? got a crane and loads of tools but saving hassle if i could

 

My oil feed is taken from the oil pressure switch, but I would advise drilling this out of the car ;)

 

you can do all the work with the engine in the car but you need to take the sump off so you can drill the oil return line... you need bigger injectors anda fuel pump in your looking for 400-450 IMHO. You will be hitting 99% injector duty cycles at 0.6 bar on an NA-T (roughly)

 

And to get the sump off you need the engine out or drop the subframe, so you might as well just haul it out and have good access ;)

 

When at WOT they will be at max, they will be the limiting factor of how much power you can produce. depending on goals/budget i would suggest you try and get biggeer injectors. the rx7 ones (search on clubna-t.com) will drop straight in. the mkiii ones 440's i think will need a resistor pack.

 

Wrong, 7mgte 440's dont require a resistor pack, they plug straight it once you have cut round the outside of the clip ;)

 

hi mate to get an air filter to fit you need a 4runner cap as the turbo cold side hits the stock cap. i think it cost me around £20 from toyota and a second number 2 HTlead as number on wont fit the new cap anymore so the leads will be n#2 n#2 n#3 n#4 n#5 n#6 ;-)

 

my build was a budget build but works perfect! the only thing i found hard was drilling the oil pan with the engine in as the steereing colum gets in the way! i bought a cheep 90degree drill fitting off ebay about £7.00 but helped alot!

 

i can pm you the link of my build as this might help you?

 

Wrong, if you use a piece of silicon hose directly onto the inlet side you can leave the stock dizzy in place, Im still running my stock dizzy, I have never changed anything.

 

There is a heat shield behind and to the bottom of the stock dizzy, this is just a heat shield, but if you cut this back then you can squeeze a silicon pipe on past the dizzy ;)

 

Would be very nice if you can send me some lecture:)

Anybody here with TT headgasket for sale?

Also, today I bought SSQV for some sound pleasures:D

 

Are you handy with mechanics, engine re-building, if so why not drop in some stock TT pistons ?

 

Ok, first of all - parts I have already bought.

Holset HX35

HKS SSQV

Bosh 044 internal fuel pump

New timing belt

TT headgasket

Stri EGT gauge

Stri Oil press gauge

 

I found a thread on here, where guy is asking about the parts needed for his NA-T and people tell him to buy ARP head studs - is it really a must have position?

Question about a boost controler - which one is the best? Greddy Profec II ?

 

Im still looking for the injectors, maybe someone here have a kit for sale? RX7 ones would be nice but I will consider other options.

Where can I find any DIY for the Bosh/Walbro fuel pump fitment?

And the last one - anybody here with some good pictures of the IC piping with the OEM intake manifold?

Thats it for now:D

 

Headbolts and fuel pump not necessary ;)

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hey guys as your looking so helpful ;P im new to this tuning game im after doing a na-t i considered the xsp conv seen pics of burnt out cars from leaky oil feeds etc i only wanna run about 300-350 max on a budget not thrashed around could someone pllleeeeeaaasseee help!! thanks.

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hey guys as your looking so helpful ;P im new to this tuning game im after doing a na-t i considered the xsp conv seen pics of burnt out cars from leaky oil feeds etc i only wanna run about 300-350 max on a budget not thrashed around could someone pllleeeeeaaasseee help!! thanks.

 

do your research mate. this forum and club na-t have loads of useful information. the fun in turbo conversion is learning and making part decisions yourself. not fun if someone else does it for you :)

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Yes mate :) At last project started :) Yesterday Ive left the car in my friends garage and today he started measuring all the needed pipes. He calculate it will take 1.5 of the week to do all the pipes - manifold and hole exhaust, fmic and inlet pipeing. Then we will take the car to another place to take the head down , measure it and check if everythings ok and install thicker seal. Then all the sensors for the gauges and AVCR and piggy.

And now - one important question. Ive searched here and on supraforums but still dont have precise enough answer.

As you now, Im replacing oem intake plenum with aftermarket one with Q45 Throttle body. I want to delete as much vacuum garbage as possible (cruise delete to). What to replace and what are the consequenses? Pics, precise descriptions or helpul links needed mates.

Forget to mention - new BC Racing suspension installed ;)

First pics from work on thursday ;)

Edited by krisso_pl (see edit history)
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Hi Krisso, firstly good luck with your build. Done right it will be more powerful than a TT with BPU and for less money! The kick from a single on boost should put a big smile on your face even at 6psi. Me and a friend dit the NA-T conversion on my supra jus over 2years ago now and i've never looked back. My build achieved 374BHP and 404NM torque on the Dyno. There af few pic's of intercooler piping and my spec here:- http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=3373

 

I took the oil feed to the turbo from the oil filter housing as there are two blanked off fittings there, i got the braided oil feed made up by a local hydraulic specialist. I can't remember off the top of my head which one is the feed tho, maybe someone on here could tell you.

For the oil return i simply used the TT return flange bolted to the sump and blocked on side off as only running a single turbo. I did remove the sump to do this. We managed to undo the engine mount bolts and drop the PAS rack down, then hoist the engine up a few inches to gain access.

 

Good luck, let me know if you need any more info.

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