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Krisso NA-T Polish project


krisso_pl

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hi mate to get an air filter to fit you need a 4runner cap as the turbo cold side hits the stock cap. i think it cost me around £20 from toyota and a second number 2 HTlead as number on wont fit the new cap anymore so the leads will be n#2 n#2 n#3 n#4 n#5 n#6 ;-)

 

my build was a budget build but works perfect! the only thing i found hard was drilling the oil pan with the engine in as the steereing colum gets in the way! i bought a cheep 90degree drill fitting off ebay about £7.00 but helped alot!

 

i can pm you the link of my build as this might help you?

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Ok, first of all - parts I have already bought.

Holset HX35

HKS SSQV

Bosh 044 internal fuel pump

New timing belt

TT headgasket

Stri EGT gauge

Stri Oil press gauge

 

I found a thread on here, where guy is asking about the parts needed for his NA-T and people tell him to buy ARP head studs - is it really a must have position?

Question about a boost controler - which one is the best? Greddy Profec II ?

 

Im still looking for the injectors, maybe someone here have a kit for sale? RX7 ones would be nice but I will consider other options.

Where can I find any DIY for the Bosh/Walbro fuel pump fitment?

And the last one - anybody here with some good pictures of the IC piping with the OEM intake manifold?

Thats it for now:D

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Blitz SBC i-Color SPEC-R or HKS EVC

 

Can anybody tell me whats the difference between Blitz SBC i-color and Blitz SBC ID ?

 

Also more general question. Im going single and thats for sure as we know. 400-450hp is the goal.

Do I need to change anything in the drivetrain? Driveshaft? Rear diff or something? Would be nice to have LSD, yes?

Edited by krisso_pl (see edit history)
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Can anybody tell me whats the difference between Blitz SBC i-color and Blitz SBC ID ?

 

Also more general question. Im going single and thats for sure as we know. 400-450hp is the goal.

Do I need to change anything in the drivetrain? Driveshaft? Rear diff or something? Would be nice to have LSD, yes?

 

LSD is important, but a non-LSD will be okay until you get to actually use it. LSD is essential IMO on cars above 300bhp, but don't swap in a TT one with the w58, it'll screw up the drive ratio.

The clutch will need changing for a stronger one

The NA diff and w58 will be a bit of a weak point in the drivetrain, but if you are not hard on the car and they are in good condition you should be okay.

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Homer, which diff would be better that is pretty easy to stick on the na manual?

 

Without messing about with replacement crown/pinons (expensive) it would be best to souce an NA LSD in my opinion. The ratio of all NA's diffs is the same (Manual/auto, LSD/non-LSD) so at least if you are using one it doesn't bugger up the drive ratios.

 

I still have some reservations about the capabilities of the NA diff, feedback of those using them is varied to say the least. Some people have had problems with them on NA-TT swaps, but others seems to get away without faults.

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What if I'm already na - LSD? What's my next choice? Thank you

 

I really only know about stock setups, the tuners would be best to advise on this (Chris Wilson, etc). From the feedback here and over the pond the main item on the NA diff that seems to go is the crown wheel (smaller than the TT one), so I'd expect an uprated crown/pinion ring gear set would be the next obvious step if you're retaining the w58.

 

Quite honestly I'd always place the w58 as the 2nd biggest weak point in the NA drivetrain (after the clutch/flywheel), rather than the diff itself. I had a replacement w58 flywheel arrive this week and couldn't beleive how small it was compared to the v160 setup, it's no wonder the w58 setup has problems holding torque!

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Hmm. I may need to look into this a little more. Thanks for the advice. I'm sticking an R154 in, just waiting for my clutch so I will probably need to look at the diff next thanks.

 

With the r154 the auto-TT LSD might still be an option. It's a slightly shorter ratio box than the w58 so won't have such a dramatic effect on ratio's if you move to a 3.769 final drive. Close call, but it might be worth looking into since you're going to be messing with the prop anyway. It will still be longer geared than the stock v160/v161 setup, but on strong NA-T install it will work better than an equivalent stock TT'd engine since the power band will be flatter.

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There is a decision. Here in poland we have a developer who manufactures his own car electronics, maybe you heard, its called ECU Master.

At the begining of the holiday, he is going to produce his first standalone and we decided to test it on supra. If it wont be ok, ECU Master DETIII (piggyback) will do the work.

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