MaveriK Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 What height should it be mounted at? Head height while sat down perhaps? Does tilt angle come into it? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 This may help and is the rule of thumb we use at work. Mounting: Once you decide on the spot where you plan to hang your LCD TV, it is time to decide on whether you will be making use of an LCD TV floor stand or a wall-type LCD mount. If you opt to hang your LCD HDTV on a wall, then you also need to determine the optimum height at which you will affix your LCD mount. There are a number of considerations that come into play when setting the screen height. The idea is to come at a level that proves comfortable on your neck. The guideline is that the maximum vertical angle of view i.e. the maximum vertical angle measured at the seated eye height from the front-row centre-seat to the topmost part of the screen, should not exceed 35 degrees (more on this in our TV viewing distance article). Nevertheless, this represents the maximum vertical setting. Ideally, the centre of the screen should be at eye level when seated. This is the position that will result in a minimum of eye and neck movement during TV viewing. Many may consider that aesthetically, this yields a too low placement for a wall-mounted display. The alternative is to place the LCD mount such that the bottom part of the screen is no higher than the eye level when seated, while the top of the display is no higher than the eye level when standing. Anything between these limits should always lead to a comfortable viewing experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaveriK Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 So, if i went for the latter of the two and tilted the screen slightly this wouldnt mess up the 3D aspects of viewing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 In theory no as at the TV still uses a simular display and with a colour displacment that the glasses and your eyes then process. But that said we have only done a handfull of 3d installs and they were positioned with the centre of the screen in the line of the eyes when seated. I would say to have a look at one in use displaying a 3d image first to see if there is any difference to satisfy yourself, but I would think not. So, if i went for the latter of the two and tilted the screen slightly this wouldnt mess up the 3D aspects of viewing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snooze Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 For ideal 3D viewing, your line of vision should be perpendicular in both axes when looking directly at the centre of the television. So if the TV is mounted with the centre higher than eye level, tilting it downwards so that it "points" at where your eyes will be when viewing will still result in the perfect picture quality. There's plenty of room for error, as you won't get significant drop off until you are more than 30 degrees away from the "perfect" position. Just make sure it's at a comfortable height to be looking at for a couple of hours without straining your neck and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 when we moved in phil the previous owner left the bracket on the wall , so when i put the tv on it i tilted it slightly , but when sitting on the settee im not looking up , well maybe my eyes a bit but head is normal if that makes any sense , ill measure the height of the brackets if you want mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaveriK Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thank you gentlemen. Was going to use these to mount the fixings onto plasterboard, will they be strong enough? http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/dec09/images/acoustics_11.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hamiltonsupra Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 100% not strong enough mate - ideally you want to find the timber studs and screw directly into them (for plasterboard walls) using spanning bracket if required or if your lucky enough to be on block/brick behind plasterboard use rawl plugs/bolts etc to mount a wooden pad that you can then directly screw on to if you really dont want to do that you could try the "brolley " type fixing which is similar to what you have pictured but takes bigger load through area of plasterboard but really would not recommend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CustomIce Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 If you're really worried, resin fixings and stud bar into solid materials will take several hundred Kg's! Plasterboard is a nightmare to "hang" stuff on. If there's a gap between wall and board, its not a straightforward job, had this issue when mounting 25Kg active speakers in a club years ago, had to knock a hole in the board and go straigth onto the brick with a longer arm support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 if its a studded/dot and dab plasterboard wall and you hang a tv off it it will end up on the floor. If you use resin anchor and stud bar you may find it pulls the plasterboard in as you tighten it up, due to the gap behind the plasterboard. you can always cut out the plasterboard screw in some ply /battons to the brick wall behind so it has something to pull against then fix the board you cut out back. If its a modern house /flat with metal stud walls best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 noooooo swirlies are no good phil, ok for hanging a picture . go to the nearest hardware shop ask for tap cons , do a test hole and see how far the block is from the board , you can work out then how long they need to be go for at least and 1/1/2 into the block , you buy the bit with the screws no plugs just drill the hole and screw them in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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