nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hi people My Sup is making a horrible knocking/grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from a rear arch I thinkd. I feel like i'v exhausted all of my options now So far i'v tightened the handbrake, changed a wheel bearing, fitted new rear drop links, torqued all the subframe nuts and bolts and to top it all of I had it in a garage today and they checked all the bolts under the car also checked for unwanted movement in the suspension components, play in wheels and sticking callipers but all seems to be ok. The guy there said that my wheel geometry is out drastically and I should get it sorted but that wouldn't cause a knocking would it? The syptoms of the car are as follows: Knocking noise that gets faster as I increase speed, makes no difference if the clutch is on or not. The noise still occurs when braking. Rear end feels very twitchy almost to the point that it's difficult to drive safely in the wet (hence why I thought it would be the subframe bolts). The noise is louder from the inside of the car than the outside. I drive with the windows open when the noise gets on my t1ts. Apart from the geo setup I can't think of anything else to try, maybe suspension as I currently have some old tein steets on there? Is there anybody on here that would be able to have a look at it? Hopefully not too far away Any advice is appretiated, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 is it definitely not the brake disc guard that covers most of the inward facing side of the disc? Once i'd been faffing in that area and it bent and was catching the disc. Not sure how many other things would be a speed related noise unless you look at driveshaft/diff problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 is it definitely not the brake disc guard that covers most of the inward facing side of the disc? Once i'd been faffing in that area and it bent and was catching the disc. Not sure how many other things would be a speed related noise unless you look at driveshaft/diff problems. I managed to get my fingers in the bottom of the guards to check for stones and all was ok but I havn't actually checked all around the guards for clearance so I will be doing that tomorrow, thanks dude. I still don't think the noise would be as loud as it is now with just the guard rubbing, would it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Should mention that one of the checks today was rotating all the wheels freely by hand to check for strange noises but nothing strange at all and i'm pretty sure the guard would be no different if on load or not so I guess that's that eliminated, I will still check tomorrow anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Well I don't know how loud your noise is, but it was noticeable enough for me to pull over at the first opportunity. Apart from that i'd say possibly something in the handbrake mechanism like a spring/pin (I still have a knocking after trying almost every avenue like you, and this is the last thing I can really think of as i've removed/reinstalled the handbrake parts), or it could be a knocking CV joint on your driveshaft because possibly the boot has split and spilt the grease everywhere leaving it to dry up, or just deteriorated with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Your hub nuts definitely tight? When you replaced the wheel bearing how tight did you do it? It needs to be VERY tight (213 ftlbs). A sticking caliper would give you a speed related noise, and the knocking could be the pads, or even something unrelated. Sorry for my unstructured brainstorming type replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Sorry for my unstructured brainstorming type replies Loving the brainstorming dude Plenty of stuff for me to check, cheers Hub nut was torqued to the correct setting, I can't remember what the setting is but I remember having to borrow works torque wrench to do it as mine didn't go as high. While it was at the garage I was able to get under the car myself and honestly could'nt see any reminents of grease on the inside of the wheels or anywhere as I also thought it could br the CV rubbers, if the CV joint has failled would there be excessive play?. Callipers definitely not sticking, no play in the pads. Do you still have your knocking noise now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Ah apologies I just read in your first post you said 'sticking calipers' and skimmed the 'all seems to be ok' part Yes I still have a knocking noise, it isn't speed related though, just bump related. I think I had a couple of knocks but tightened some suspension bolts and hub nuts and it made it quieter. The disc guard is the only speed related noise i've had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Appretiate your help. Hopefully it is just a guard, nice and easy Seriously though if it does turn out to be just the guard should I be blaming the twichy rear end on the lack of my wheels being aligned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Geo alignment does make a difference. I just had mine re-done yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BazzaAlpine Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Get the wheel(s) rebalanced and make sure there are no buckles in them. I found with a car I was using over christmas that I had something very simular to what you are getting and even though the tyre place put the same weight back on the wheel it was in a different place and was quiet as anything after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Rear suspension upper mount Diff/bearing Diff mounts Loose exhaust Get someone sat in the back and see if they can identify the area the sound is coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Geo alignment does make a difference. I just had mine re-done yesterday. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? I have know idea how much it usually cost, always thought it would be expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Rear suspension upper mount Diff/bearing Diff mounts Loose exhaust Get someone sat in the back and see if they can identify the area the sound is coming from. Great idea's there, thanks Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Rear suspension upper mount Diff/bearing Diff mounts Loose exhaust Get someone sat in the back and see if they can identify the area the sound is coming from. Great idea's there, thanks Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? I have know idea how much it usually cost, always thought it would be expensive. £78 + £10 for every arm that needs adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Get the wheel(s) rebalanced and make sure there are no buckles in them. I found with a car I was using over christmas that I had something very simular to what you are getting and even though the tyre place put the same weight back on the wheel it was in a different place and was quiet as anything after that. Thanks for the idea I actually replaced my previous wheels with the ones I have now because one of the wheels was buckled and the shaky steering wheel annoyed me alot. So no shaking steering wheel now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasoup Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 £78 + £10 for every arm that needs adjustment. That seems realistic, I have a feeling i'm going to be forking out alot of £10's. All I need to do is find a quality shop to do it for me, the hunt begins. Thanks Rickeh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 what was the outcome of this nasoup? my car has started doing the same today.... thought there was something sticky on the tire at first, then it sounds like a squeeking noise. its not a constant grind when pads are gone, the faster/slower i go the noise changes, so it has to be wheel/brake related (think) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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