Jamesy Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 What a relief mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I'm hoping to book it for last week of the month. I've spoken to Ryan about going to SRR the week after the TDi mapping sessions are going on. I'm just so busy at the moment, that the car is very much taking a back seat. I've not got the exact details from Hodge, but I it was something to do with a weep on the water return pipe. The water pump is getting replaced - it's not headgasket. So, all is OK Good to hear its an easy fix, id not use SRR for your car, that needs a hub dyno to get a decent map, the tyres will give up after one run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Good to hear its an easy fix, id not use SRR for your car, that needs a hub dyno to get a decent map, the tyres will give up after one run. I was going on Ryan's advice to use SRR matey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I was going on Ryan's advice to use SRR matey. Ahh ok, he will know better than me thats for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 The car has certainly been an experience for me. I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to find a slight top end knock. With this being the 1st VVTI I've worked on I wasn't aware of the chatter a VVTI unit makes under 3k. It wasn't a horrific noise but it was there and I didn't like it at all. Ive had both cams out twice all the buckets and shims out cleaned and reshimmed, I've stripped the VVTI pulley down, inspected and cleaned everything and put it back together but still couldn't cure the noise.. I was down Michel Lanes the other day and he said he had the same issue with 1 of his VVTI cars with bigger cams. Basically what happens is because the VVTI solenoid is closed under 3K the mech chatters slightly, once it reaches 3K the solenoid opens and the chamber fills with oil the noise goes away. I checked it out and that's exactly what happens. michel recommended Removing the solenoid, squirting the chamber full of oil and replacing the solenoid again. I did this and it quietened it down A little. When Johnny came back from his jollies I mentioned this to him and he said the car always had this slight noise that you could only hear when the bonnet was open. That issue dismissed I moved onto the coolant issue. I found a very and I mean very small leak in the water return line on turbo #1. When the car was running it was un-noticeable. It was only when the car was turned off you could hear a very slight hissing where it was letting in air and letting out a very fine mist of coolant. I think over time it's pressurized the system. The pipe has been repaired and I've bled the engine off with the laptop plugged into the Syvecs and the engine coolant temps don't go above 88.6 degrees whilst the car is running. Once the car is turned off it goes to 92.6 degrees a no higher. Next thing is to road test the car. All being good I'll change the water pump and thermostat next week and all being good Johnny will be picking up the car at the weekend. At this point on behalf of myself and Johnny, I would just like to thank Lee.P, Chris Wilson and Michel Lane for there help and advise on the above issues. I know you all ave very busy guys at the moment so thanks for taking time out to pass on you advice and knowlodge it's been a great help. Cheers guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 The car has certainly been an experience for me. I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to find a slight top end knock. With this being the 1st VVTI I've worked on I wasn't aware of the chatter a VVTI unit makes under 3k. It wasn't a horrific noise but it was there and I didn't like it at all. Ive had both cams out twice all the buckets and shims out cleaned and reshimmed, I've stripped the VVTI pulley down, inspected and cleaned everything and put it back together but still couldn't cure the noise.. I was down Michel Lanes the other day and he said he had the same issue with 1 of his VVTI cars with bigger cams. Basically what happens is because the VVTI solenoid is closed under 3K the mech chatters slightly, once it reaches 3K the solenoid opens and the chamber fills with oil the noise goes away. I checked it out and that's exactly what happens. michel recommended Removing the solenoid, squirting the chamber full of oil and replacing the solenoid again. I did this and it quietened it down A little. When Johnny came back from his jollies I mentioned this to him and he said the car always had this slight noise that you could only hear when the bonnet was open. That issue dismissed I moved onto the coolant issue. I found a very and I mean very small leak in the water return line on turbo #1. When the car was running it was un-noticeable. It was only when the car was turned off you could hear a very slight hissing where it was letting in air and letting out a very fine mist of coolant. I think over time it's pressurized the system. The pipe has been repaired and I've bled the engine off with the laptop plugged into the Syvecs and the engine coolant temps don't go above 88.6 degrees whilst the car is running. Once the car is turned off it goes to 92.6 degrees a no higher. Next thing is to road test the car. All being good I'll change the water pump and thermostat next week and all being good Johnny will be picking up the car at the weekend. At this point on behalf of myself and Johnny, I would just like to thank Lee.P, Chris Wilson and Michel Lane for there help and advise on the above issues. I know you all ave very busy guys at the moment so thanks for taking time out to pass on you advice and knowlodge it's been a great help. Cheers guy. I can't emphasise that enough, I owe you all a pint, at the very least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 How would an air leak into the system increase the pressure though fellas? The rad cap has it pressurized above atmospheric pressure anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 How would an air leak into the system increase the pressure though fellas? The rad cap has it pressurized above atmospheric pressure anyway. Well here's the strange thing, whilst I was inversigating the issue I removed the overflow pipe and blew down it. It seemed to be obstructed with something as I couldn't blow freely down it. I removed the pipe from the resevior and tried again and that was free so the problem lied in the resevior lid/pipe in the resevior. I put some air pressure through the lid an something seemed to free itself and come out the pipe. I put it all back together and no restriction issue were present. Now I'm not sure if this contributed to the issue not letting the overpressurized coolant to go into the tank/resevior hence creating back pressure. Who knows really it could have been a combination of the 2. I won't know if all is good until I get it out and road test the car later on today, but I'm sure all is good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Just had the car out for a steady drive for a couple of miles to my parents house after it was warm and all was good. I kept the car under 3k and had no issues as all. On the way back I increased the revs a little to almost 4k again car drove fine but noticed the stock water temp gauge and risen upto just over 3/4 very close to the red mark as I pulled into my street. As I stopped the temp was very quickly dropping. I turned off the car and went for the laptop to check an acurate temp on the syvecs, and the temp was around 100 degrees which odviously it had been higher than the when I was driving for a short period of time. The water pump on the car has done 193000km and the car only has water in it at present. Now because of the increased size of the water system now for the big twin setup, is it possible that the pump just can't cope anymore. I am ordering a water pump and thermostat tomorrow anyways wether this issue had arisen or not. What do you guys think, could there be any other reason for this rise in temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Won't be a pump capacity issue, maybe a blocked or poor rad, or a faulty thermostat, maybe a bad viscous coupling. Unlikely to be the pump, usually they leak if they have any issues at all. You say temps rise when the car is slowing. Is the big auxiliary fan in the rad shroud tripping in????? Someone else, (jackso11 from memory), had a similar sounding issue and was tearing his hair out. He rang me and I went through a list of questions, only to find his auxiliary fan wasn't working. I *THINK* getting it working fixed it. This is the sort of log you need to aim for, but I run a cools `stat for maximum power, you need a stock one really. Log shows 14 minutes flat out round Oulton with 1.2 bar boost, on a hot day. Nice flat line.... Drops when coming into pits. Maximum, minimum and average figures are shown at the right of the graph channels. Edited July 17, 2011 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 The temps rise when the revs rise to around 4k (just before the car comes onto positive boost). The cars running twin electric fans, chris that run together. Ryan has the Syvecs set to cut them in at 88 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Bossco had the same issue with his BPU car, the temps went crazy when 2nd turbo came on line, it turned out to be an airlock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I wouldn't have electric fans as gift on something like a Skyline or Supra, I just don't think they shift anything like enough air, but sub 4000 RPM, hell, there's no real thermal loading on the engine at all, unless it's mad retarded, ignition wise? Certainly doesn't seem right at all. Have you altered any aspects of the cooling system plumbing apart from the two turbo coolant feeds and returns? If not have you tried blocking them off for a quick off boost test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Ahh ok, he will know better than me thats for sure. I dont want to run these turbos to mega boost just yet as they condition is used and want to keep an eye on them as when i first got it running the turbos were shuffling abit which normally means something is different between the 2 compressor wheels. Johhny is aware of this and we need to keep an eye on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I wouldn't have electric fans as gift on something like a Skyline or Supra, I just don't think they shift anything like enough air, but sub 4000 RPM, hell, there's no real thermal loading on the engine at all, unless it's mad retarded, ignition wise? Certainly doesn't seem right at all. Have you altered any aspects of the cooling system plumbing apart from the two turbo coolant feeds and returns? If not have you tried blocking them off for a quick off boost test? The only other part of the coolant system which has been altered was the pipe coming from the head that went to the throttle body. This was blocked off cos it wasnt needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I dont want to run these turbos to mega boost just yet as they condition is used and want to keep an eye on them as when i first got it running the turbos were shuffling abit which normally means something is different between the 2 compressor wheels. Johhny is aware of this and we need to keep an eye on them. Understood, sounds like a wheel may be damaged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I did a block test a while back and and the fluid turned greeny blue but not yellow to indicate combustion gasses present. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I dont want to run these turbos to mega boost just yet as they condition is used and want to keep an eye on them as when i first got it running the turbos were shuffling abit which normally means something is different between the 2 compressor wheels. Johhny is aware of this and we need to keep an eye on them. Understood, sounds like a wheel may be damaged?I'm hoping for 1 bar, maybe 1.2 as the wheels unfortunately aren't great. Issue with distance selling I guess. Will be upgrading the turbo in winter/early 2012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 As chris says , i think it may be a faulty rad, have you replaced the original one ?. I had a simular problem awhile back with the electric fans that i had. During the early days , I wired my rad direct to a 30amp fuse , occasionally the fuse popped and the fan would not work . Since then i have wired up and independent power feed to the fans with 2 * 30amp relays to power it . It has not given a problem as yet. I also placed a 12v led in the driverside dash to indicate if the fans fail. If you need a rad i have several stock units you can use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Can you put the stock engine driven fan / viscous and fan cowl with electric aux fan on that alloy rad? I would try that, plus fit a new OE `stat. Go from there if you are sure it's not a mapping (retarded) or gasket issue. Edited July 17, 2011 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 As chris says , i think it may be a faulty rad, have you replaced the original one ?. I had a simular problem awhile back with the electric fans that i had. During the early days , I wired my rad direct to a 30amp fuse , occasionally the fuse popped and the fan would not work . Since then i have wired up and independent power feed to the fans with 2 * 30amp relays to power it . It has not given a problem as yet. I also placed a 12v led in the driverside dash to indicate if the fans fail. If you need a rad i have several stock units you can use. Or has an SRD rad fitted and the fans are the same as yours michel from MVP I think. They are not the biggest fans in the world that's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Can you put the stock engine driven fan / viscous and fan cowl with electric aux fanon that alloy rad? I would try that, plus fit a new OE `stat. Go from there if you are sure it's not a mapping (retarded) or gasket issue. That 1 is ruled out chris I'm afraid. Johnny took home the parts he wanted to sell and asked me to bin the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Rash maniac..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Did you seal the fan stroud on the rad ? if you noticed the fitment for the mvp units are not that good ,what i did was put some door seals around the fan stroud and then positioned the unit on the rad, this fully seals the air flow. I replaced my fans with spal units as they gave up early last year .I am averaging 79degrees on idle according to the aem unit. Have you checked to make sure both fans are coming on ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 i know it might sound stupid but,have you checked the airflow from FMIC TO AIRCON RAD THEN TO RAD. Nothing is blocking it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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