Ryan.G Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Same calibration for water temp on every supra base map so won't be that! The temp gauge on dash does not move from the middle until it's over 100. I know that for fact. Look elsewhere. Maybe dodgy sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Ryans right, Toyota calibrate the gauge so it doesn't move until over 100 degrees. It makes the car look more reliable. I've had the car out before I did the pump and thermostat and the stock gauge went up to 3/4 which is way way over 100 degrees. After the pump and thermostat was done I took it out last night and saw around 97 degrees and took it home. I didn't want to risk it any further. I'm almost certain now it's either the headgasket or a cracked head. Edited July 22, 2011 by hodge (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Ryans right, Toyota calibrate the gauge so it doesn't move until over 100 degrees. It makes the car look more reliable. I've had the car out before I did the pump and thermostat and the stock gauge went up to 3/4 which is way way over 100 degrees. After the pump and thermostat was done I took it out last night and saw around 97 degrees and took it home. I didn't want to risk it any further. I'm almost certain now it's either the headgasket or a cracked head. Sorry to hear your having so many issues mate, Could it have caused some damage when the water hose blew? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Did you post back re how the turbo cooling is plumbed, with what size hoses? Photos? Why not get someone else to have a look at it, it is dragging on now, fresh eyes and minds and all that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 If you want to have a chat about the turbo water lines John, give me a shout but I'm sure you would have done them right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Are you sure you have got all the air out the system, I took advice from Stuart W and fitted a little bleed valve in the heater hose at the back and its so easy to bleed, you can fill the system and squeeze hoses etc but when you take the bleed screw out you get loads more water in, when that head came off teh whole thing looked like new, gasket was perfect etc etc, so I would be very surprised if there was a problem, has it got hot yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 After the speaking to a few people, the consensus is either Head Gasket, or a cracked head. The head gasket was new with the build. The head was new and refurbed from Dude at AFR. Can't seem to catch a break.Unsure what to do with the car now. Options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 After the speaking to a few people, the consensus is either Head Gasket, or a cracked head. The head gasket was new with the build. The head was new and refurbed from Dude at AFR. Can't seem to catch a break.Unsure what to do with the car now. Options? are these not both easy fixes bud? im sure you could pick up a head get it checked fully and bang it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) PITA mate, The only option seems to be remove the head, test for cracks and straight, refit with a new gasket, go from there. I would still check it is 100% over heating first, could still be a dodgy sensor as Ryan suggests. Edited July 23, 2011 by JamieP (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 PITA mate, The only option seems to be remove the head, test for cracks and straight, refit with a new gasket, go from there.It is mate. I'm very f'd off at the moment... I'd rather plough money into getting a Porsche than throw good after bad at this. At least I've got a new X6 to play with for a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 It is mate. I'm very f'd off at the moment... I'd rather plough money into getting a Porsche than throw good after bad at this. At least I've got a new X6 to play with for a bit... i can see why your down on this but its not a huge problem, just another thing to iron out. chin up mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Are you sure the twins are plumbed in right? im sure ive read of something similar before when the water cooling was not plumbed in right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 i can see why your down on this but its not a huge problem, just another thing to iron out. chin up mate.HG is a fair chunk of cash.New head and swap is a bigger chunk of cash. At the point of think it might not be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Are you sure the twins are plumbed in right? im sure ive read of something similar before when the water cooling was not plumbed in right.I've no idea J, but I have total faith in Hodge. But I guess it's worth the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 HG is a fair chunk of cash.New head and swap is a bigger chunk of cash. At the point of think it might not be worth it. Not wanting to make things worse but also to consider is it sounds like the turbos might need a rebuild? if it was my car i would sort that now also, seems mad to fit and map then have to remove them to be repaired later and fit and map again, sorting the head wont be major money if its just a gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Not wanting to make things worse but also to consider is it sounds like the turbos might need a rebuild? if it was my car i would sort that now also, seems mad to fit and map then have to remove them to be repaired later and fit and map again, sorting the head wont be major money if its just a gasket.The turbos aren't too bad. They'll go to 1.4bar, which will yield 600whp. Thats plenty for me. I've already looked at billet and batmowheel options for the winter overhaul. This was just meant to be a "quick" setup to get me running for the summer then off the road for winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Sorry to hear of the ongoing dramas, mate. Unfortunately these seem to be part & parcel of building something a little more left-of-centre. Keep your chin up, it *will* be worth it in the end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 If you were closer I would gladly have a look at it for you, its a pita but don't lose enthusiasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 I appreciate the thought mate, but it's tough to remain positive sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I can sort it for you, I am sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I can sort it for you, I am sure. Me too! I'll give you a call towards the end of the week, Chris - or over the weekend. Am perking up a little Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Which EXACT HKS turbo kit is this? Do you by any chance have the instructions, in particular how they intended the turbo water cooling pipes to run? I take it these pipes are something Hodge has had made, and not the original HKS supplied ones? Can I access the ecu map? It's not locked or anything? I don't think there's enough fuel in to fill my fag lighter, so I will have to go out and buy some in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Which EXACT HKS turbo kit is this? Do you by any chance have the instructions, in particular how they intended the turbo water cooling pipes to run? I take it these pipes are something Hodge has had made, and not the original HKS supplied ones? Can I access the ecu map? It's not locked or anything? I don't think there's enough fuel in to fill my fag lighter, so I will have to go out and buy some in the morning It's the HKS Twin kit with the GT2835's upgraded to the GT3037's. The pipes that came weren't in the best condition, so we had them made up to look better. The map should be open, Ryan didn't mention that he'd locked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 I'm sure the turbos are GT30-37s. Yeah the map isn't locked just plug the laptop in with the Syvecs software and your off. Yeah I made the water lines up chris. The car didn't come with any. Intact the kit didn't come with any pipework or fittings. Feel free to give me a ring anytime mate if you need anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Beat me too it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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