hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Did you seal the fan stroud on the rad ? if you noticed the fitment for the mvp units are not that good ,what i did was put some door seals around the fan stroud and then positioned the unit on the rad, this fully seals the air flow. I replaced my fans with spal units as they gave up early last year .I am averaging 79degrees on idle according to the aem unit. Have you checked to make sure both fans are coming on ? Yeah mate I got the fans flat against the rad after s few hours messing around and with a little help from the grinder. Both fans are working fine. On idle the car is 88.6 degrees according to the syvecs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 The only thing infront of the rad/AC rad is the oil cooler. I've got the same on mine and so has Bossco with no overheating issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Post a log from the Syvecs showing RPM, water temp, fan switching and MAP if you like. It may show what conditions the overheat occurs, I am not sure if you can add all these to one screen, I have only had a brief fiddle with their logging stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Post a log from the Syvecs showing RPM, water temp, fan switching and MAP if you like. It may show what conditions the overheat occurs, I am not sure if you can add all these to one screen, I have only had a brief fiddle with their logging stuff. Chris I'm a total computer retard I wouldn't know where to start and I'm sure the s6 only has a very brief data logging facility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Chris I'm a total computer retard I wouldn't know where to start and I'm sure the s6 only has a very brief data logging facility. It has from all the Ecu's I know in it's price range the best! You can display up to 30 parameters on one screen but can setup up to 6 screens on one worksheet. Go out to car and connect cat5 cable to Ecu. Open up sdata... Then press device then read data... Type in download comments if you wish and press then OK. Select yes to delete data on Ecu after it's pulled on both prompts. Then press File.... Load latest log in sview. On the right hand side you will have all parameters logged. Select ect1, map1, rpm, tps1 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 One of the most useful tools you can have is a spot temp laser gun ; its not fool proof but helps greatly without removing anything . point the gun at various places -bottom of rad, top of rad , after stat ,pump etc- it will show you whats happening temp wise - if you had a second car you can compare the numbers. It would show any blockages across rad for example They are cheap now (made in china ) £40 , but a great addition to your tool box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Will it have logged all the time the engine was running Ryan? As you know, I too am a computer illiterate, but now I have the ability to log my own stuff I am a total convert. It's just made for after the event crisis analysis. Pity Jurgen hasn't got logging from his failure. Maybe he has though, he mentioned some sort of Access Port or whatever..... Hmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 It starts based on a few parameters or by a logging switch. But with it only having a base map on it at present it logs all the time from when the engine runs. Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Any updates on this guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Aye - Hodge has done the water pump and the thermostat. Now, he took it out, with his son watching the water temperature on the laptop (Syvecs Software). The water temp went to 96 degrees - so he backed off. That was to 4500rpm. The stock gauge never moved, though. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Ive just spoke to Ross and when he had an overheating issue he got his car to 120 degrees without the stock guage moving at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Is the water system pressurising? is it possible the sender could be reading wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Yeah it seems to be pressurizing jamie. its makes the top water pipe solid once the engine it turned off. Things are pointing more towards the head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 If it's pressurising the water system it should show in a sniff test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Yeah it seems to be pressurizing jamie. its makes the top water pipe solid once the engine it turned off. Things are pointing more towards the head gasket. You can log it mate, Ryan hooked up a sensor to my top water neck to check to see if mine was ok at full boost on the dyno. Only time i had a problem with pressurising water was when my block cracked on the old engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I've tried 1 Lee, I'm not sure as chris wilson said I'm getting a false reading due to the chemicals in the coolant. My sniff test kit said it should turn yellow if exhaust gasses are present and it goes dark green (from its original blue colour). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Well it's definitely not a cracked block as it's not been driven enough on the new setup to bust something so strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 If it's changing colour it's normally a problem. It shouldn't change at all. Did you get the head skimmed when you had it off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 If it's changing colour it's normally a problem. It shouldn't change at all. Did you get the head skimmed when you had it off? Nope, it was a refurbed head that I bought from Dude. Cleaned, new dual valve springs, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) Nope, it was a refurbed head that I bought from Dude. Cleaned, new dual valve springs, etc Ah ok, would have needed to be checked for straightness, they usually bow in the middle a bit and need a skim. Also pressure test it for cracks, that was probably already done though if it was refurbed. Edited July 21, 2011 by Lee P (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Johnny it's maybe worth checking with dude to see it it was skimmed and had been checked for cracks but I'm sure it will have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Johnny it's maybe worth checking with dude to see it it was skimmed and had been checked for cracks but I'm sure it will have. I've just PM'd Dude now to ask him - and to see if he can help at all with this. He was great with the head, so I'd be very surprised if the head itself was the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I've just PM'd Dude now to ask him - and to see if he can help at all with this. He was great with the head, so I'd be very surprised if the head itself was the issue. I doubt it will be as John really knows his stuff, but it's worth asking the question mate just to rule it out atleat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 That was the head that was on Mark R's car when it crashed, it was running fine and the bottom end was mint, no signs of anything wrond and he had the head checked to see if it needed facing. AFR now fit a bleed screw on the the heater pipes at the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Aye - Hodge has done the water pump and the thermostat. Now, he took it out, with his son watching the water temperature on the laptop (Syvecs Software). The water temp went to 96 degrees - so he backed off. That was to 4500rpm. The stock gauge never moved, though. Any thoughts? As Jamie says, are you sure there *IS* a problem at all and it's not the Syvecs set up with the wrong calibration table for the sender you are using? Does it actually boil if you let it keep running? If the stock gauge isn't moving..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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