jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Got me some Tein coilovers to fit and am thinking what other parts I might need. From Davey's thread it looks like I will need some of these.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-SUPRA-1993-98-Rear-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-RODS-x-2-/250563499431?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a56bf95a7 and http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-3-0-05-93-08-02-Stabiliser-Link-Front-/260567976433?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cab0fc9f1 and that should be it right? Or are there other parts I should have on standby. I have changed rear dampers before but not done fronts which I understand are a nightmare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-No-Knee Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 You dont need them, but while you are there it would be rude not too.... I did mine and it was a bieeatch and a half to cahnge them, the threads had set solid and the allen key centre was slipping so I ended up using the angle grinder. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Droplinks? 99% of the time you will need them. If you have stock front suspension then you won't have a hope of dropping it out without removing the droplink or the ARB. If you want to do it without the droplinks then I would suggest unbolting the arb from the chassis of the car, you will most likely need to put the jack under the arb to stop it from wanting to take your hand off though lol. I did a mates the other week and they were all a fecking nightmare. I've got new droplinks to put in myself but I'm holding off till I can be bothered lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Agree with Scott. I removed my HKS hipers and put oem on to make my car a rolling shell. Had to disconnect the drop links. If i was you though i wouldnt buy drop links from ebay. Not unless you have some wierd perversion for fitting drop links! They will fail much faster than some OEM ones. Try Whifbitz for an OEM price. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 What are arb's ? Sorry, the suspension and axels are like spaceships to me. I know nothing about either lol. I am sure it will be straight forward once I get started, managed to change the rears no problem after all, but I don't know the names of parts I am afraid.....other than wheels and springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 What are arb's ? Sorry, the suspension and axels are like spaceships to me. I know nothing about either lol. I am sure it will be straight forward once I get started, managed to change the rears no problem after all, but I don't know the names of parts I am afraid.....other than wheels and springs. ARB = Anti Roll Bar. The droplinks attach to the antiroll bar. If you are struggling to get them removed you can remove the ARB from the chassis. That way you will get much more movement from each side when trying to pry down the wishbone. If the ARB is in place and the droplinks are in place you will only get a few inches movement. With the droplinks removed and the top wishbone disconnected you can get about 6 inches without much hassle. The rears are an absolute doddle to do bud so just be sure what you are letting yourself in for. In order to get the top wishbone off with the passenger side you need to remove the inner arch liner and the washer bottle. Make sure you take off the bracket that goes to your ABS wheel speed sensor too, you don't want to stretch that cable as they are a nightmare to get out of the hub in one piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 thanks scott Now for a really stupid question, the links attach to the arb one end...what about the other end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) just had a look at whifbitz for these links.....£58 each for the rears and £64 each for the fronts! Are the ebay ones really that bad? surely a pattern copy should be fine. Anyone got any experience with them? Also, should I change any bushes at this point? I want to get a full geosetup done too but will wait until I have this lot on and also new tyres. How long do drop links usually last? I noticed these ones have a 20k milage garantee.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-FRONT-REAR-Stabilizer-Link-SET-TOYOTA-SUPRA-93-98-/320405485440?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4a99a7b780 Edited January 25, 2011 by jackso11 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 The ebay droplinks i fitted to my MR2 were knocking as loud as the worn out oem ones i replaced within 6 months. If it was an NA id say fair enough (not being rude, just less likely to be as stressed at 100+mph), or a random shitbox runabout, but this is a Supra TT, with added BPU. stop trying to cut corners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 is there a cheaper way to get OEM ones? I don't want to cut corneres but they are 5 times the price for all 4! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Much cheaper than that from Toyota. Other end of the droplink connects to the lower wishbone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 set of 4 from ebay is £37, one set of 4 from Wifbitz (Toyota ones) £240 and he suposed to be cheaper that Mr.T....no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 set of 4 from ebay is £37, one set of 4 from Wifbitz (Toyota ones) £240 and he suposed to be cheaper that Mr.T....no? No, as I already said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Im pretty sure Paul does a members discount, i would give him a try, and call Toyota to check on the price direct too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 anyone know the part numbers? I will try steve manly tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 http://www.toyodiy.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 is the car 'knocking' at all at the moment? if no and you are just replacing the shocks/springs then I'd leave the links and ARB alone..........with the whole front of the car jacked up and the top wishbones free you should be able to lever the hub down enough to fit the Teins....I managed it with stock stuff (possibly with spring compressors? can't remember?!) and i'd expect the Teins to be a little more compact/easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Hold on, am I miss-reading something about changing the front shockers? It is a easy job if you just release the top wish bone, but I have been reading documents all day, so might have missed the OP's original piece As above The 'hardest' part is moving the washer bottle and crap shield to slide the bolt over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 I thought I might as well change serviceable parts while I was in there. No knocking at the moment, no play, but if it is advisable to change I would do. You don't think I need to change them? Also tought it was very hard to change them without getting the drop links off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 I removed the top wishbone with the front off the deck and couldn't get it low enough with my 18st buddy standing on the hub so I don't know how you guys did it lol. I had to remove the droplink to get it off. Of course when I did, the assembly almost fell out it was so easy. That was with stock suspension & spring compressors, although I didn't need them with the droplinks off. If it is aftermarket lowered suspension on there then you will have enough movement to get them off. I had optional TRD springs/dampers on there and I just about managed to get them out without too much fuss. I then changed to a different brand of coilovers and they were VERY easy to get out, in fact I managed it on my own with no help to hold the hub down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 I thought I might as well change serviceable parts while I was in there. No knocking at the moment, no play, but if it is advisable to change I would do. You don't think I need to change them? Also tought it was very hard to change them without getting the drop links off. I personally don't think you need to change them because if they are ok now then worse case is they get knocky soon after and then you can change them then............some parts people advise you get done because whilst everything is apart is a lot easier eg water pump when doing a cambelt, but the drop links can be done anytime with minimal work take to get to them. re hard to change them, its awkward.........i'd get some spring compressors, a long breaker bar/pole and ideally another pair of hands.......a person carefully placing the bar and levering down the lower wishbone/hub while you steer out the coilover is far easier than trying to do it with your own knee. NB my tip re the washer bottle (especially handy if the bottle is full) is do not fully remove all three bolts but leave one (top one maybe?) in so that you can get the wishbone bolt out without having to later faff around locating the bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Some great advice in this thread I found the same problem as you Scott, with stock suspension it's very difficult (or as I found, impossible) to remove the strut without unbolting the drop link, even with my near 20 stone mass (back then) levering the lower wishbone and the srping compressed. If the car has aftermarket suspension it is much easier and unbolting the suspension arm is the easiest way to go about it, maybe even easier if you can get the lever method to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 i just undo the bottom cup that the shock bolts to , then the stock dampers come out easy without touching the top wishbone, drop link off and a long bar and bobs a sibling of your mother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey001 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Hey Mate I got mine today from here, http://www.japanesecarimports.net/ They are spot on, will let you know what they are like once fitted. £32 for front pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Changed my stock billies for hks hypermax's this weekend, no issues what so ever, just the top wishbone bolt for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.