Samurai 20V Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Getting the shims from Mr T (had a phone call today) so that I can get the head finished. I'm hoping to wrap the manifold and downpipe today too Ok..Good luck.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperDOHC Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 This supra looks amazing Good luck with the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 This supra looks amazing Good luck with the build Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 What a job this wrapping stuff is. Horrible stuff to work with. I had to remove the old crispy stuff before applying the new stuff. It was brittle and turning to dust as I touched it, the room I am working in was just filled with the stuff (no mask, oops). After removing it I decided it was time to put a long sleeved jacket on. Applying the stuff wasn't quite so bad as I had pre-soaked it to make it a little easier to work with but I'm still shining like an 80s glitterball. Anyone any recommendations for getting this stuff off? I've tried an airline, washing, sellotape, shaking my clothes and shouting at it. I'm still sparkling lol. To top it all off I didn't have enough to do the downpipe. I BARELY had enough to do the manifold. Need to get another roll of the stuff to do the DP. Just the one dodgy pic from my phone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 TRD horn arrived today, looks great IMO. Typically it wasn't a straight forward fit. The hole had to be opened out slightly in order to stop the horn from fouling. Very nice bit of kit, genuine TRD too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 That steering wheel looks very nice Scott! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 I'm really happy with it Abz, I had my fingers crossed when I ordered the horn that it would fit. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't direct by any means but it didn't take a lot to get it right. The colour combo is coming along nicely. I'm going to see the world in black and red soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 I'm really happy with it Abz, I had my fingers crossed when I ordered the horn that it would fit. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't direct by any means but it didn't take a lot to get it right. The colour combo is coming along nicely. I'm going to see the world in black and red soon You need your own version of the black & yellow song! Sorry if I have missed this in the thread but any plans on any red sitching on the interior? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 I was in 2 minds whether to go with red stitching or not with regards to the seats. Decided against it in the end and just went with the logo.... http://www.mkivsuprastar.com/Supra/Interior/IMG_5365-1000.jpg I'm only using the red as an accent for certain areas so I don't want to go OTT on it. This is what my mats look like. I hope Dan doesn't mind me using his picture as I don't actually have one lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 Finally got my shims from Toyota today so I set about getting the cams fitted for good. Went reasonaby well, all in and done in an hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 bang tidy mate. what cams did you go for, at a guess by looking at the cams im gonna bet a haribo green bear they are 264? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Before you put the cam covers on,. and after the head is on the block, spray all the cam lobes with spray on moly grease. It stops scuffing if it doesn't fire up straight away. I use this stuff: http://in.rsdelivers.com/product/rocol/10025/dry-moly-spray-lubricant-400ml-aerosol/2096974.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 bang tidy mate. what cams did you go for, at a guess by looking at the cams im gonna bet a haribo green bear they are 264? Cheers. 269 GSC Stage 1s Before you put the cam covers on,. and after the head is on the block, spray all the cam lobes with spray on moly grease. It stops scuffing if it doesn't fire up straight away. I use this stuff: http://in.rsdelivers.com/product/rocol/10025/dry-moly-spray-lubricant-400ml-aerosol/2096974.aspx I was wondering about that mate, I was thinking about a light dusting of oil but I'll get that stuff and do it right Then again.... £50 for DFL spray I'll see what stuff they use in the work, does any dry film lubricant do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Starting to get things back together. Unfortunately I put the allen key into the wrong side of the cambelt tensioner so I'm having to wait till I get back to work to sort it out (no vice in the house). I couldn't believe how tight the cambelt is going on, even with the tensioner off it was tricky getting the fecker on. Anyway, once back at work I'll be borrowing a DTI and getting the tensioner fitted ready to sort out the timing. Looking forward to that part, should be really interesting As I had pretty much reached a dead end for now I then moved onto fitting the power steering cooler & oil cooler. They are in mock up positions for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Lovely Job mate, I may have missed it but have you painted the bay?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Lovely Job mate, I may have missed it but have you painted the bay?? Just gave it a quick blow over with a rattler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 How are you doing the timing? American cams often come with an outdated and less accurate set of figures for setting cam timing. You want to use a lift at TDC figure for both cams. not a fully open at X degrees figure. It's also far easier and less prone to mistakes if you aren't very used to timing up multiple cams. You just set the engine to TDC (and there's a trick way to do this with absolute accuracy and great ease), and then you set the cams to give the correct valve opening lift. At TDC both valves will be a bit open, IYSWIM? If you are unsure just ask or e-mail / ring me, I do this all the time, so am pretty good at it by now Look on your cam spec sheet for a lift @ TDC figure. If it's not shown e-mail or ring the makers for it. Typical full cam sheet below: KENT CAMS LTD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CAM PRO PLUS Cam Card Report 11:42:59 08/10/2010 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Spec. Value ---------------- ----------------------------------------- File x:\Chris Wilson acting mechanical profiles\D300-D399\D361.CPP Lobes I1 Lobe Separation ----- Cam Deg. Checking Height 0.010 Inch Valve Overlap ----- Crank Deg. Intake Exhaust ------------------- ------------------- Centerline 106.0 ATDC Open 44.8 BTDC Close 76.9 ABDC Duration 301.8 Crank Deg. Area 37.12 Inch Deg. Lash 0.0250 Inch Rocker Ratio 1.00 Peak Cam Lift 0.43405 Inch Peak Valve Lift 0.40905 Inch Lift @ TDC 0.1363 Inch ------------------------------------------------------------- Spec. Value ---------------- ----------------------------------------- Checking Height 0.039 Inch Valve Overlap ----- Crank Deg. Intake Exhaust ------------------- ------------------- Centerline 106.0 ATDC Open 21.3 BTDC Close 52.2 ABDC Duration 253.5 Crank Deg. Area 36.69 Inch Deg. Lash 0.0250 Inch Rocker Ratio 1.00 Peak Cam Lift 0.43405 Inch Peak Valve Lift 0.40905 Inch Lift @ TDC 0.1363 Inch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 I think I'm ok but having never done this I'll be taking every precaution. I got the camcard sent over from GSC. Summarising... I want the intake opening at 6 degrees before TDC I want the intake closing at 42 degrees after BDC Exhaust opening at 50 degrees before BDC Exhaust closing at 2 degrees after TDC What is classed as the valve opening and closing though Chris? I take it it's 5 or 10 thou or something? I was thinking about dropping the DTI into the spark plug hole to find the proper TDC, possibly a little crude though lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I thought they'd come with an old way. The info there is not the timing SETTING figures though, just the cam spec. There's not enough info to even work it out, as the cam lobes may well be assymetrical. Setting would be something like intake fully open at X degrees. I would e-mail and ask if they have a figure for lift at TDC, it's much more accurate and easier to do as well. Trying to find an accurate point for the cams to have the valves fully open is hit and miss, as the buckets rock and the nose of the cam will have a relatively wide rotational movement where no real change in lift is visible on the DTI. Getting TDC on the crank is easy to achieve with total accuracy, and setting the cam to give X mm of lift is also easy and accurate, so the modern method wins hands down. Here's how to find TDC PROPERLY. Get an old spark plug and knock the porcelain out of it, and break the side electrode off. Drill and tap it to take a length of threaded rod of suitable diameter for the bore of the plug, probably 8 pr 10 mm. Make the end of the rod protruding from the bottom of the plug smooth and slightly rounded, it's going to touch the piston crown and it's nice not to mark it up. Get the piston on number 1 coming up the bore roughly an inch before TDC, just guesstimating with a screwdriver down the plug hole is fine. Now, leaving the engine position alone screw in the modded plug, firmly. Have the rod just protruding from the bottom of the modded plug. Screw the rod into the plug until it just touches the piston, and lock it up with a locknut against top of the plug body. Turn the engine back a tad, then forward again until it is hard against the stop that the rod is forming. Read the sgree wheel on the crank and note the number. Now turn the engine backwards until the piston again hits the stop that the rod in the plug body forms, and again note the degree wheel. Divide by two, and remove the plug stop. Turn to the divided figure and you are EXACTLY on TDC. It accounts for piston rock and is the most accurate way known. You don't have to have an adjustable stop, if you get a few measurements of the distance of the seat of the top of the plug hole to the piston top with it about an inch down the bore you can just weld a bit of rod in the plug shell. i like adjustable ones as i use them on lots of different engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 The info I posted was just a snippet. This is everything they sent.. Camshaft Specification Card Make Model Part Number Description Toy 2JZ-GTE 6030S1 Intake Exhaust Advertised Duration 269 269 Peak Lift .388" .390" Valve Clearance 0.010" 0.012" Rocker Ratio 1 1 Valve Lift (net) .378" .378" Duration @ .040" Valve Lift 228 232 LSA Centerline @ Peak Lift 108 ATDC 114 BTDC 111 Intake Intake Exhaust Exhaust Opens Closes Opens Closes Cam Timing @ .040" Valve lift 6 BTDC 42 ABDC 50 BBDC 2 ATDC Thanks for the info mate. I'll most likely be in touch next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 One quick question... when I'm figuring out the exact TDC of the piston... is that OK to do with the cambelt on? Just remove the plugs to stop pressure buildup? I'll be able to knock something up no bother Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) If you want to work out your lobe centres here is a good article on lobe centrelines have a look here: http://www.muzzys.com/articles/lobe_centers.html Your figures for timing them are: Centerline @ Peak Lift 108 ATDC 114 BTDC 111 I am still absolutely adamant that getting the lift at TDC figures from them (if they have it) will give much more accurate results. I try and get decent road car engines to within +- 1 degree, and race engines to 0.5 degree accuracy. You won't do that using lobe centreline figures Edited September 23, 2011 by Chris Wilson Link missing. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Having the lift at TDC would be easier also and leave less space for error. I can only ask the question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 One quick question... when I'm figuring out the exact TDC of the piston... is that OK to do with the cambelt on? Just remove the plugs to stop pressure buildup? I'll be able to knock something up no bother Cheers You must be sure it's not become an interference engine, if you take the belt off and tun it you can bend valves if it's now an interference set up. So yes, leave the belt on if the cams are set using the basic marks on the cam pulleys and the TDC mark on the crank damper. Once you have the PROPER TDC with the plug stop method make a nice steel pointer to bolt on somehow to the block, and scribe the crank damper finely, to allow you to find it again with no messing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 Been a while since I updated this so here goes... I fitted the cam pulley wheels along with the timing tensioner pulley. Timing belt fitted and time to dial in the cams. I followed Chris's advice and managed to get a hold of an adapter to put screwed rod into. Did the job very nicely. Out of curiosity I also checked it with a drop clock and got exactly the same results so I'm happy with that. Rather than finding TDC with the clock I went for +10 degrees turning clockwise, zeroed the clock then went anti clockwise to find where the zero was. It was bang on -10 degrees so I'm confident that this is a suitable method to use in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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