Stonkin Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Cheers Chris Battery just winds me up, its to small for the car really, bov gives limited space due to where it is. Battery needs to be shifted to the boot. Plugs have only done about 700 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Left the battery charging overnight and it did fully charge this time and now back in the car. Tried to start it, no good. I can hear the fuel pump in the boot when keys are at ignition 2. Bridged the 2 ports for the fuel pump mod, tried to start, still no good. I could hear something flowing in the engine bay, even with the keys removed until i removed the paperclip bridging the 2 ports. Tried to start again (without the paper clip) and it nearly tried to start, but didnt. Read the fault codes which would have been fresh after having the battery out, and still comes up with 78, fuel pump control signal. code 14 for ignition signal had gone. Checked the fuses in the footwell (already checked engine bay) and all were fine. Whats up with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Change the plugs if you know there's fuel pressure and a spark. Have you checked for a spark with a coil pack out amnd the two plugs in it with the bodies of the plugs resting on the cam cover, in a shaded area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 I havent done that Chris no, just a bit concerned i'd cock it up and blow the thing up, a bit extreme perhaps but getting a bit out of my depth with what else i can try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 You wont blow it up doing what CW has said, just dont hold the plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 have you tryed shouting at it , or standing back with the bonnet up and looking at the engine for a while, this sometimes works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 When my car wouldn't start a while back it was due to sooty spark plugs. I took the plugs out and gave them a wee rub with some emery paper. Put them back in and it fired right up. The car had flooded due to only being rolled in and out of the bodyshop (while it was getting a spray) and that blackened up the plugs as far as I know. Not sure but you shouldn't be hearing fluid running in the engine with the fuel pump on, the injectors should surely stop any fuel making it's way in there? If the pump is priming fine with the ignition on II then I can't see it being a lack of fuel. As already said, next check is the spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 You should and can hear it as it circulates from the pump, through the fuel rail, then the pressure regulator and back down the return line to the tank. The flow is rapid and of considerable volume at idle or with the pump artificially kept running with a static engine. If the engine has injectors that spray fuel, new or uncontaminated plugs and a spark at roughly the right time it should attempt to start when cranked at a decent speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Cheers guys. Cant be sure if it was a fluid noise i heard but it sounded like it. Certainly wasnt an electrical buzzing noise. It stopped as soon as the bridge of those 2 ports was removed. Right, so it really needs the spark checking next, along with plugs. Will get on the case and let you know what happens. Still not sure why it ran fine for a couple of days after its 'break' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Cheers guys. Cant be sure if it was a fluid noise i heard but it sounded like it. Certainly wasnt an electrical buzzing noise. It stopped as soon as the bridge of those 2 ports was removed. Right, so it really needs the spark checking next, along with plugs. Will get on the case and let you know what happens. Still not sure why it ran fine for a couple of days after its 'break' It was the same with mine. It was starting fine and going in and out of the shop no bother, then one day it just wouldn't fire. I tried everything that I had suggested to you and the thing that cured it was giving the plugs a rub. I put it down to flooding due to all the cold starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Makes sense, cheers Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Finally got round to checking the spark. I've removed the first 2 plugs and they are very black, pics attached. I tested that they were sparking by resting the 2 bodies on the cam covers and i could see a spark on both. Is their condition the reason for it not starting, can i just clean them up? They have not done a huge amount of mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 I'd splash out on a new set but you could clean them, their not iridiums are they by the look of it otherwise i'd say dont touch as the electrodes are quite fragile. good prices here at http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 They are iridiums mate yes. Just removed the rest and they were not as bad as the first 2 (pics) but still quite sooty, a couple were a little wet to. I'm going to clean them up as a test, but new ones might be an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 That's what mine looked like. I was getting a spark but it was weak as feck. The good news is that you are getting a spark and you are getting fuel. Give them a scrub in the "V" till it shines and give the iridium tip a very easy rub with some fine paper just so that it is clear of soot. As Dunk says, the tips are quite fragile. Even though iridium is much harder you don't want to be going nuts Use them as an excercise and if it turns out they were the problem, new plugs might be a good shout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 All plugs have been cleaned up and put back. Still doesnt want to start. Holding the throttle slightly gets it coughing and spluttering a bit, there was also a bit of smoke coming out the lambda sensor on the down pipe, i presume this was burnt fuel? Still storing the code for fuel pump relay signal. That test i did with bridging the 2 ports for fuel, what does that prove with regard to the fuel pump relay signal as it still didnt start with that. Any ideas? Ignitor pack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 All plugs have been cleaned up and put back. Still doesnt want to start. Holding the throttle slightly gets it coughing and spluttering a bit, there was also a bit of smoke coming out the lambda sensor on the down pipe, i presume this was burnt fuel? Still storing the code for fuel pump relay signal. That test i did with bridging the 2 ports for fuel, what does that prove with regard to the fuel pump relay signal as it still didnt start with that. Any ideas? Ignitor pack? If you are getting a spark from all of the sparkplugs then it isn't the ignitor pack. Not sure if one working would rule that out on its own actually. The coilpacks might be fooked, or the coil pack clips. Best thing to do is take out the lot and make sure you are getting a spark from all of them. Remember to remove the EFI fuse so that you don't flood the engine leading to more confusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Fair point Scott, i didnt check spark from all 6, just the front 2. I'm going to swap out an ignitor pack saturday as its a quick easy thing to do anyway. All the coil pack clips are brand new late last year. Got a couple of other things to check and i also installed the emanage software onto my new laptop today and tried to connect with it but the software just stayed offline. I'm not sure if thats because i had the wrong version or if there is a problem with the emanage, again. I've got a different version installing now and will try again, and also pull the carpet back and see if any of the lights on there are actually on. Not sure why but have a sneaky feeling it could be emanage related. Where abouts is this fuel pump relay as per the code thats coming up, is that something thats easily swapped out as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 It could still be the ignitor pack as it could be causing a weak spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hopefully that is the case mate, see you Saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 I know this is ancient, but thought i would update anyway. The car now lives After constant pestering to Lee for advice (thanks so much mate) it finally got started yesterday. Put some more fresh fuel in, it wasnt low low, but low enough to warrant trying anything. Removed plugs for the 3rd time and they were quite wet after trying a few starts. Looked down into the cylinders and you could see fuel in there. Turned it over with no plugs in to try and remove it. Plugs cleaned up again and put back. It nearly tried to start but still didnt. Then removed the EFI fuse No 1, turned the car over with plugs in, then put the fuse slight in and out very quickly to burn off anything else that might be in there, then when it sounded like it was going to catch put the fuse fully in and it purred into life Bit smoky to start, but it hasnt properly run for many months. Left it running for a while keeping an eye on things, drove it around the yard to get some rust off the disks and its sounding much more healthy. Tried it again this morning and starts on the button Spoken to my bodyshop guy and discussed the plans for the car and will shortly be transfering it to his place to be stripped down in preperation for its body makeover, really looking forward to it, something i've been wanting for ages now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Scrap that Just tried to use the car again, wont start and seems like its flooded again. I'm gona get a set of copper plugs as the iridiums are probably now buggered and Ryan is sorting out some emu drivers for me so i can get the laptop to connect to the ecu to see whats going on. I've got the software but cant seem to find the drivers anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 EMU driver.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) Hi Ian, thanks very much mate that worked a treat. I can now connect to the emu from an xp machine. Windows 7 doesnt work but thats fine. Picked up some copper plugs from Lee today and the car now starts. But, its afr is at 10.5 on idle and that was when still cold so i've switched it straight off. Have asked Ryan to email me the last map he did so i can re upload it, dont know why anything could have changed but at least it eliminates something else. Edited March 6, 2011 by Stonkin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 just sat here thinking, as its been so long since i used the car. What should the afr be roughly when it is started from cold? I know it should be around 14.5 when warmed up but for some reason remember it starting off higher than that when cold and then works its way down. Or have i got it the wrong way round and paniced over nothing, shall i just let it warm up and see if the afr's go normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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