Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Hi guys, car has been sat for last 2-3 months, started every couple of weeks, but not driven. All was good when it was last used. Started it up a few days ago and went for a drive, slowly off boost, did a few journeys like this and all fine, couple of low boost pulls on another journey, still good. Went to use the car today, starts up but car was shaking slightly and sounded like it wasnt firing on all cylinders. Switched the car off and tried again and now it wont start at all. Just checked the fault codes and it has 14 and 78 14 - Ignition Signal No IGF signal to ECM for 4~7 consecutive IGT signals with engine speed less than 3,000 rpm. Open or short in IGF circuit from igniter to ECM Igniter ECM 78 - Fuel Pump Control Signal I've just checked all the coil pack connector clips (which were replaced a few months ago) and they are fine. Any ideas please? cheers Christian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 A silly one but how olds the battery, is it holding its charge ? try running it via jump leads from another car perhaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Is the starter motor turning OK? My battery was so dead a few weeks ago that even when jump started it wouldn't idle lol. I had to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it alive. In the end I ran out the grub screw on the accelerator bracket to keep the revs at 1000rpm. The battery was absolutely fooked and draining away all the current the alternator had to offer, I assume leaving not a lot for the spark/injectors hence my issues. Once I changed the battery I fired the car up and the setting on the grub screw meant that it revved to 2000rpm. Have you jump started the car at all, or tried to jump start it? The reason I ask is that it sounds like it could be an ignitor pack fault. One reasonably common cause of them failing is jump starting (IMO the more likely cause is jump starting while the ignition is in the ON position). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 I wondered about this mate. The battery is a year old but has been drained flat and recharged several times in that year. The day before i took the car for its first drive a few days ago, it was totally flat. It was on charge for 48 hours and still saying it wasnt fully charged. I put it on anyway and did 3 or 4 journeys in the car since. Do you think it could just be battery buggered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Is the starter motor turning OK? My battery was so dead a few weeks ago that even when started it wouldn't idle lol. I had to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it alive. In the end I ran out the grub screw on the accelerator bracket to keep the revs at 1000rpm. Once I changed the battery I fired the car up and the setting on the grub screw meant that it revved to 2000rpm. Have you jump started the car at all, or tried to jump start it? The reason I ask is that it sounds like it could be an ignitor pack fault. One reasonably common cause of them failing is jump starting (IMO the more likely cause is jump starting while the ignition is in the ON position). All turns over fine mate yeah. Not jump started it either no as i know how weak the ignitor packs are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I wondered about this mate. The battery is a year old but has been drained flat and recharged several times in that year. The day before i took the car for its first drive a few days ago, it was totally flat. It was on charge for 48 hours and still saying it wasnt fully charged. I put it on anyway and did 3 or 4 journeys in the car since. Do you think it could just be battery buggered. If the battery is strong enough to turn the starter motor then I would say definitely not. If it is totally dead then it could be. I would be surprised though, mine was completely and utterly knackered before I ran into any issues. And even at that I could get the car to start from a jump if I held the revs up... yours isn't anywhere near that far gone yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 All turns over fine mate yeah. Not jump started it either no as i know how weak the ignitor packs are. I would have to rule out the battery then. The signal to the pump could be your problem. The reason why you aren't seeing any start is because there is no fuel making it to the cylinders. Have a look for the 12v fuel mod on here. I understand you have a single turbo so I'm not sure if the mod is the same. It means that as long as your ignition is on, the fuel pump is running. That would do away with the need of the signal to start the pump. If that was the case I would only recommend it as temp solution to get you buy until you can get the proper source looked at. Edit: Just so you know it isn't a hard task.... The mod is simply connecting 2 pins in the diagnostic port IIRC. I used a bit of wire to do some fault finding. Just make sure it is secured in place well and put some insulating tape over the top of it to prevent anything from touching anything else. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Last time i had code 14 come up was when i had the small micro chip fall off the motherboard on the EMU if you remember It was all soldered back on and never caused any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Is this differant to the uk set up ? ive not had any issues jump starting my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Is this differant to the uk set up ? ive not had any issues jump starting my car Me either, I've done it loads and not had an issue. Jurgen has always maintained that jump starting the supra can potentially fry the ignitor pack. IMO the only way I can see that happening is if someone attached the jump leads to the car with the ignition on. The sudden jolt of current running rife through the whole system could mess up lots of things. Having the ignition off while attaching the leads should be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Jumping them with the leads the wrong way around is what kills the ignitor packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Jumping them with the leads the wrong way around is what kills the ignitor packs. That too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Jumping them with the leads the wrong way around is what kills the ignitor packs. thats it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Jumping them with the leads the wrong way around is what kills the ignitor packs. Yep i'd guess that would do it, probably take out the main 120 amp fuse too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 thats it ureka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Racelogic traction control doesn't like reverse polarity, either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 have you tryed shouting at it , or standing back with the bonnet up and looking at the engine for a while, this sometimes works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Cant say i tried that mate, but happy to give it a go Tried starting it up with some jump leads just incase of any battery issues but still wouldnt start. Had a lot more life in it to try and start though so i'm sure the battery is a bit knackered, its too small for the car anyway really. Searched on the fuel pump mod Scott, but havent tried anything with that yet. Definetly seems like it isnt getting any fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 If you do the mod to make it run on ignition it just means you can rule out the fuel pump and concentrate on the other error you have. My money would be on the fuel pump signal though To try it, you just put a bit of wire or a heavy paperclip between 2 pins in the diagnostic port. Takes 2 seconds once you know the pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Ah right, read a guide saying to cut wires in the boot which i didnt fancy doing, didnt realise it could be tested from the port, what are the pins then? Spoke to Lee earlier to and have got a few things to check in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 B+ and FP There will be a little diagram on the lid Poke something in and give it a burl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Another thing on the list to try tomorrow then, thanks Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Another thing on the list to try tomorrow then, thanks Scott Get the pipe and slippers put to the side and get out and fire it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Right, have just checked the fuses in the engine bay including efi 1 + 2 and they were all fine, i still need to check the ones in the footwell. If i put the key to ignition 2 i can hear the fuel pump in the boot. I bridged the 2 ports Scott said to put the pump on constant and it still didnt want to start but the battery was very very low, tried starting a second time and it just clicks now so battery flat I could still hear something whining in the engine bay even with the keys removed until i removed the wire bridging the ports in the diagnostic port. Need to get it on charge again now, great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd get a new battery and fit a new set of Iridium plugs and hope. The old plugs are probably wet now and often fail to fire properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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