jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Well, before I start let me say I am a complete electrical numpty! My sitting room has 3 lights controlled by a dimmer switch. Recently I replaced the bulbs with dimmable energy saving halogen bulbs. They are rated at 42W and outputs 60w of equivalent energy. Anyway, my wife switched the lights on and it blew one of the bulbs (this one blew before in the past but this time it exploded lol). That tripped the fusebox as well. After resetting the fuses, I noticed I can't dim the lights at all. It all just goes at full brightness now. I reckon the dimmer switch itself must be knackered. Do I have to replace it or is it safe just to leave it as it is? If I have to replace is is there any special specs I need to look out for in the switch? Do I also have to switch the mains completely off if replacing the switch? Thanks for any advice given! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottC Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I would replace it most dimmers have a MIN & MAX load rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 I would replace it most dimmers have a MIN & MAX load rating. hmmm... no chance of just leaving it then? Not really fussed about dimming just want it to work. Should I remove the switch first to get some details? I suspect it's the energy saving bulbs I've put in thats overloading the circuits. What should of ratings should I get for the switch? Finally, I guess I should just switch the relevant fuse off to work on the switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottC Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 If you're not worried about dimming the lights just replace the dimmer with a normal switch, you can pick up standard white plastic one for a few squids. Are these the only lamps controlled by the dimmer? How are they switched, ! way or 2 way? As you said turn the power at the fuse board before you remove the dimmer. Edit: You should still test the cables at the switch after removing the fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 If you're not worried about dimming the lights just replace the dimmer with a normal switch, you can pick up standard white plastic one for a few squids. Are these the only lamps controlled by the dimmer? How are they switched, ! way or 2 way? As you said turn the power at the fuse board before you remove the dimmer. Edit: You should still test the cables at the switch after removing the fuse. Hhi mate. The switch is a 2 way switch. I have to press it to switch lights on/off and then rotate to control brightness. I presume the resistor for dimming is fried but switch is still working? I left it on for 15 min previously and everything looks ok. No tripped circuit, no burning smell and lights not blown lol. Just wondering if I can get away by just leaving it as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottC Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Personally I would change it to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Make sure you isolate at the board before you go playing with the wires ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 meh... shops closed now probably go tomorrow or something. Damn dimmer switches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Dimmers and energy savers don't mix....... I managed to set an LED light on fire with a dimmer switch, left a nasty scortch mark on the ceiling I'm slowly moving to ambient energy savers and then PWM controlled LED lighting, all low voltage stuff. a) Means I can install it without getting into H&S issues and certification blah blah, and b) means I can run it off a car battery and solar panel One more set of items off the grid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottC Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I think he's using these http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/category/47/halogen-energy-savers/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I think he's using these http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/category/47/halogen-energy-savers/ Ah okay, wonder if they are similar to some halogen controllers I had a while back. They were dimmable BUT you need a specific type of dimmer for the,. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 I think he's using these http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/category/47/halogen-energy-savers/ yeap.. those are the ones I am using. To be more specific I've got them on eBay as a bundle and they are branded as "Eveready". Basically a car headlight halogen bulb encased in a glass bulb There were a few more expensive branded choices though that looks like a real energy saving lamp. I am thinking on LED lighting too. I saw a bulb which changes colours with a remote and I think it's really cool in a geekish sort of way. Too bad most LED lighting now are not really practical for home uses as they are not really omni directional light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supranature Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Sounds like your new bulb has blown your dimmer. Add the load (watts) of all the bulbs, then double it. This figure is then the MINIMUM load of your new dimmer. I usually play safe and fit 1000w dimmers, but you can't buy these at diy outlets, (trade electrical outlets only) and they are about £16 here in Lpool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Add the load (watts) of all the bulbs, then double it. This figure is then the MINIMUM load of your new dimmer. Eh? So say you have 4 x 100W bulbs, you take that total (400W) and double it, and buy an 800W minimum load dimmer, but your actual load is only 400W? How does that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Most DIY shop dimmer switches are maximum of 250w. I know you can get 400w dimmers at B&Q but they're a bit more expensive. I had same problems in the past and all was well after fitting a 400w switch. IMO though, dimmers are a pain in the ass! I'd ditch it in favour of a plain old switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 IMO though, dimmers are a pain in the ass! I'd ditch it in favour of a plain old switch That is exactly what I am planning to do. I know it's the sitting room but I don't have to dim the lights that often. Although dimming the lights theorectically should save electricity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 As some of the others have said, add up all your light bulbs that will give you your total wattage at max output, most dimmers are rated at 250w and 400w, if you going to get another dimmer then make sure it is capable of taking max load of the light bulbs. However if your going to do away with the dimmer and just use a switch then theses are rated in amps, normally 6 amps which should be sufficient, If my memory serves me right i think the company MK rate there switches at 10 amps. Dont buy a shit quality switch, spend your money and get something like an MK one, diy stores own stuff is shit. What we mean when we say is it one way or two way is if you walk in one dorr and turn it on can you walk out another door and turn them off? if so thats 2 way and you need to make sure the switch you buy is 2 way (it'll say on the packet). As for turning off the electrics do it from the fuse board. on the circuit your planning on working on. Richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guigsy Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Richie... your missing a trick he is in northamptonshire. If you tell him your an electrician you could earn a few bob Thaught i saw your van parked up near sixfields the other day mate. white with the wheels. It was just up the road from somewhere i think is known for dogging... so i didnt go knocking on the window... jonathan - Richie tracked down why half the lights in the bottom half of my house were flickering when i turned cirtain lights on. turned out to be an iffy bulb! im a moron and a scaredy cat when it comes to electrics so i just call richie if its not a fuse or a blown bulb . Although i might try changing a switch. As some of the others have said, add up all your light bulbs that will give you your total wattage at max output, most dimmers are rated at 250w and 400w, if you going to get another dimmer then make sure it is capable of taking max load of the light bulbs. However if your going to do away with the dimmer and just use a switch then theses are rated in amps, normally 6 amps which should be sufficient, If my memory serves me right i think the company MK rate there switches at 10 amps. Dont buy a shit quality switch, spend your money and get something like an MK one, diy stores own stuff is shit. What we mean when we say is it one way or two way is if you walk in one dorr and turn it on can you walk out another door and turn them off? if so thats 2 way and you need to make sure the switch you buy is 2 way (it'll say on the packet). As for turning off the electrics do it from the fuse board. on the circuit your planning on working on. Richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 What we mean when we say is it one way or two way is if you walk in one dorr and turn it on can you walk out another door and turn them off? if so thats 2 way and you need to make sure the switch you buy is 2 way (it'll say on the packet). Richie Hmmm, in that case its a one way switch. Just one switch controlling them lights. It's a chrome dimmer with "2 way" action. Push to switch on/off and then rotate to control dimmer. I guess the dimmer bit is gone lol but I can still switch the lights on. So far no sparks or smokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 shhhh thats supposed to be a secret where you see my van!!!! i've just pm'd jonathan, didnt realize he was local, that'll teach me to look in future cheers Richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Right, small bumpy as I have another question. In my quest to cut down on electrical consumption I went out and bought 3 digital timer plugs from Argos. The warning says do not plug in an appliance where load exceeds 13amp. What I am doing is using it to ensure all my lcd telly and other av (non computer so far...) are all properly turned off. My kids have habit of leaving speakers on etc. Question is : Would it harm my telly or sky box if the plug abruptly cuts power off when it is turned on? From my limited knowledge of electricals, general AV equipment (PS3s etc) shouldn't exceed the 13amp load limit so should be safe to use the plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Right, small bumpy as I have another question. In my quest to cut down on electrical consumption I went out and bought 3 digital timer plugs from Argos. The warning says do not plug in an appliance where load exceeds 13amp. What I am doing is using it to ensure all my lcd telly and other av (non computer so far...) are all properly turned off. My kids have habit of leaving speakers on etc. Question is : Would it harm my telly or sky box if the plug abruptly cuts power off when it is turned on? From my limited knowledge of electricals, general AV equipment (PS3s etc) shouldn't exceed the 13amp load limit so should be safe to use the plug? Yup, you will be fine with a 13A unit... Telly and stuff don't take enough to cause troubles.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Yup, you will be fine with a 13A unit... Telly and stuff don't take enough to cause troubles.... Cheers for that reply Gav Just don't fancy frying anything up just in case it cuts off while unit is on. Thinking of doing same for computers but I don't reckon it would be that simple.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Cheers for that reply Gav Just don't fancy frying anything up just in case it cuts off while unit is on. Thinking of doing same for computers but I don't reckon it would be that simple.... Better off doing the PCs with software and getting them to auto shutdown at a set time than just pulling the plug on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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