Guest hamiltonsupra Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 Guys ,firstly merry christmas to you all If anyone can help i would be very grateful I have a 93 jap twin turbo , when i lock the car (either from alarm fob ,the central locking button at the electric window switch or by plugging in the seat belt) the passenger door locks correctly but the drivers door doesnt - the internal switch moves then just bounces back - i am now panicking as i cant lock my pride and joy - ANY IDEAS?? Apologies if this has been answered before - couldnt find it on search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam82 Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 Happened to mine the other day, it's most likely due to the cold weather freezing everything up, leave it running with heating on full this may thaw it out, worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay n_a Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 as above the same happend to me but after a long drive and everything warmed up and it worked fine again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 my central locking has packed up too ,first it would lock only now it wont do either .same as last year ,roll on the thaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilps Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 or by plugging in the seat belt You can lock the car by plugging in the seatbelt?? (I hope this is less of a mock-worthy question than the boot release chronicals!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo2810 Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 You can lock the car by plugging in the seatbelt?? (I hope this is less of a mock-worthy question than the boot release chronicals!) I believe the autolock is triggered by the seatbelt plug after a few seconds. Usually you're sitting in the car driving off so you don't think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hamiltonsupra Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 thanks guys - left it to thaw and its sorted - if only everything was as easy to "fix" cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 wd40 the mechanism prevents this, or if cba to remove the door card just wait for the summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joey Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 This happened to me the other day and the passenger door still wont lock wether i use the key in the door, alarm fob, anti hijack when i start the engine or trying to lock it from the inside. will try some wd40 tomorow & see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Bumping this thread as my Supra Luck story continues! After fitting the new window from little num the drivers door is failing to lock. Won't lock via alarm fob, key or lock button. It worked fine before we fitted the window...just now it clicks but bounces back. It's nice weather so doubt it's due to cold weather Not having much luck nowadays...any idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L18msy Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Sounds like a rod is either jammed or been knocked off. Maybe disturbed it fitting the window? Does the interior knob move when you try to lock it from the inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Yeah it flinches, you click the lock button and it goes about 3/4 of the way and then jumps back a bit. It doesn't have the same feel as it used to it feels loose. Took the door card off, all the visible wires are in place and connected. Not too sure, my assumption was the same, think I may have knocked/dislodged a component whilst fitting the window Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 I'll upload a video later to show what happens. Any help would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Any ideas? (sorry to not embed, am on the mobile) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L18msy Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Im guessing it does it when the door is closed as well? Is the rod from the handle to the mechanism bent? If you have bent it when fitting the window then the rod would be too short to complete the full 'stroke'. Or the central locking solenoid on the mechanism might have spat the dummy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobUK Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 From memory the rod connects to a plastic block. If the rod is not at the right position within this block then I think you would get the symptoms you describe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Im guessing it does it when the door is closed as well? Is the rod from the handle to the mechanism bent? If you have bent it when fitting the window then the rod would be too short to complete the full 'stroke'. Or the central locking solenoid on the mechanism might have spat the dummy. Yup, does the same when the door is closed also. Not too sure where I would be looking for the rod to the mechanism? My knowledge around technical issues are rather non-existent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobUK Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Yup, does the same when the door is closed also. Not too sure where I would be looking for the rod to the mechanism? My knowledge around technical issues are rather non-existent As you look at the door from the inside the mechanism is directly behind the lock in the top right hand corner.... if you look between the gaps in the door panel you should see a metal rod about 4 inches long that is held at the lock by a plastic block.... the block clips/unclips and therefore the rod can be positioned as required..... from memory it naturally places itself.... it could be that during changing your window this has got knocked one way or the other... Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Cheers Rob. I'll have to give it a looksee tonight fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobUK Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Any luck ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JS2004 Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 (edited) Seems a fitting thread for my problem. Yesterday the central locking worked fine, today it doesnt Checked fuses, one of the 15amp ones had melted but I believe this to be the headlight RH.. so going to investigate this a bit. Symptoms - central locking no longer triggered from key fob which is linked to the locking via the alarm. When driving usually locks after about 10 seconds, this no longer happens The central locking button next to the window controls is no longer working. I hear a click from what I think is the mechanical relay behind it, but the sound of the motor, or whatever controls the locks is not present. It is working intermittently, sometimes pressing the button gets a partial sound as if its trying to lock, other times nothing at all, and on the rare occasion its actually operating as it should. Ive read about a red relay box? Is this in the fuse compartment under the bonnet does anyone know? Also about a clip behind the glove box? I am going to have a go at taking the glove box out and seeing if I can spot anything behind there which may have come loose. The strange thing is that it sounds like its trying to work, it does on some occasions, but in general it seems dead. Pic of my rather spectacular melted fuse... Strangely enough investigating this melted fuse, it is drivers side headlight. Removed fuse, headlight flickers continually - thought it should just go out. Passenger side goes out. Got HID ballasts. Strange, with no fuse the headlight flickers a lot on driver side, yet passenger side correctly does not light up. Got HIDs in there but still with no fuse the ballast shouldnt be getting power.. Edited May 8, 2011 by JS2004 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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