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Project Supracharger


David P

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Na mate. I will never believe you dont really want a manual :love:

 

He really wants a turbo, but has spent too much and is now in denial..... :)

 

You two sound like a pair of old wives. ;)

 

I'm quite capable of knowing what I want, even if it's "not good for me". :shrug:

 

Top of my want list is a new spine please, because I've worn this one out doing the things I've wanted to! :p

 

I go my own way, I always have and after my Suprafad has passed, maybe I'll want to have a crack with a wing-suit. :think:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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The warning light that's on all the time would drive me mental! Can you knock it of?

 

 

The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. :shrug:

 

That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. ;)

 

At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert.

 

Kaan will like that. ;)

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The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. :shrug:

 

That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. ;)

 

At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert.

 

Kaan will like that. ;)

 

Very cool :rolleyes:

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The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. :shrug:

 

That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. ;)

 

At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert.

 

Kaan will like that. ;)

 

 

Fair play then, lot of time goes in to this an looks like its paying off. Well done

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Fair play then, lot of time goes in to this an looks like its paying off. Well done

 

Thank you, there's lots more integrated electrickery to come yet, but footwellgarmitronics hurts my neck.

 

I'm learning how to manage and negotiate with my spine and this week the weathers good and I have access to hard standing and I've got at it.

 

Six months ago, the manifold took a hard blow from a curb stone which has resulted with a very small crack somewhere, I could hear it at the back of the engine, but not trace it's whereabouts.

 

A picture fest Noz has requested.

 

 

Stripped out

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168147&d=1366756789

 

The white 'budget' wrap used inside the Pharaoh's willy-warmer has turned to ceramic and makes miniature sounds of breaking china as the pieces fall to ground

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168150&d=1366756789

 

Found the Gremlin

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168151&d=1366756789

 

Difficult to see

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168160&d=1366758151

 

Gotchya :)

 

The magic red triangle wouldn't have found that one ;)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168161&d=1366758565

 

 

 

I'm having no. 5 re-welded and 4 too if it goes well, so whilst it's off I've cleaned up the ports, they were a far better match than on inlet-side and didn't need much work, just a knock off the casting rough and tidy up, about 1mm or so diameter increase at different wonks to match up to the O.E. gasket, using a flappy-wheel that only just goes into the port, in the drill.

 

 

 

Before

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168149&d=1366756789

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168164&stc=1&d=1366767655

 

No. 23 rubber bungs, laid in a plastic bag in the sunshine until all warm and squidgy

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168152&d=1366756827

 

Stuff em in: :) Note the black thumbprints, after that my hands were too mucky for camera's until I'd finished and cleaned up

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168154&d=1366756827

 

Sucked out the muck with a vacuum cleaner and pulled out the plugs

 

3 different angle After pics of one port

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168158&d=1366757013

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168157&d=1366757013

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168162&d=1366766199

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168155&d=1366756827

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168156&d=1366756827

 

 

That might let another couple of horses out. :shrug:

 

My hands were too mucky at times to take pics and there was a lot to do in an afternoon, then clean up, pack up, lock up, clean myself up and then walk carrying the manifold over my shoulder for a mile, delivering to an 18.00 deadline.

 

I hope I haven't done too much too soon. :blush:

exhaust ports 007.JPG

exhaust ports 009.JPG

exhaust ports 011.JPG

exhaust ports 012.JPG

exhaust ports 014.JPG

exhaust ports 015.JPG

exhaust ports 010.JPG

exhaust ports 010-001.JPG

exhaust ports 016.JPG

exhaust ports 003-002.JPG

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I've had an :idea: idea, then looked for it on the net and found this below, which would allow improvement of the stock exhaust cam for a supercharged installation.

 

Has anyone knowledge of this used with a 2JZA80?

 

 

 

"Using Valve Lash to Help Tune Your Engine

 

This is a little extra tip that is still unknown to many engine builders and tuners. Most people do not realize that you can make subtle performance improvements by slightly opening or closing the recommended lash settings. This is for SOLID LIFTER camshafts ONLY!

 

The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close sooner. Now your engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift. BE CAREFUL - I am suggesting you start with only 0.001 - 0.003" of change in lash. Crazy experimentation can destroy your engine!

 

You can use this tuning method to experiment, finding what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be, and damage may occur if you are not careful. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine it is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004" from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008" recommended.

 

The common gains that people see will be that by reducing the lash will increase top end (upper RPM power) horsepower, and increasing the lash can improve low end torque and acceleration."

 

 

Complete article here.

 

http://www.centuryperformance.com/fo...ing-Valve-Lash

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Reducing exhaust valve clearance could result in burned seats or valves with bits missing from the edges of the seating area. An extra couple of thou won't make any noticeable change to duration or lift performance. Why didn't you just stuff some strong rag up the ports, rather than ill fitting rubber bungs that fitted where they touched? Brave man porting a head *ON* an engine, never seen that done outside of Asiatic Russia before ;)

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I have adjustable cam-gears to dial out any of that, I'd be pleased to have +8thou lift and a smidgen more duration for the exhaust cam.

 

When warm, those rubber bungs are as soft as ear-plugs and squidge to a perfect fit in the hole. :slap:

 

Barn Door Engineering at it's best. ;)

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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The components removed have been cleaned ready for reassembly and whilst I can get at them, administered some tinkering to gain a few mm's clearance more, here and there.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168254&d=1366834520

 

 

Manifold is now welded and re-mounted, as per usual, the problem place was a problem to weld and no. 4 went well.

 

There're two studs I'm not happy with and need to replace.

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168253&d=1366834520

manifold back on 007.JPG

valve check 002.JPG

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Cracked weld as suspected. I said on the blower didn't I never heard of a gasket come loose with impact. Though I suppose that would of be a quicker cheaper fix! Glad you got it sorted.

 

My manifold bolts are mild steel, so think when I remove them I'm going to swap for a higher quality material as I'm dreading removing them.

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I couldn't remember if it had a stock, or a cheapo aftermarket gasket which can fail, :think: there have been a lot of spanners under the bridge since then.

 

During the job I remembered that I changed back to a stock one when I gasket matched the manifold. :shrug:

 

 

The Pharaoh is all cozy again and I've cut the cable-bracket mounting stump off the brake master to stop the ICV hose clip tapping on it.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168354&d=1367007487

 

That yellow wire is shouting to be sheathed in black :scared:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168355&d=1367007487

 

Supercharger-bracket, stat & housing, distributor and t.b.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168357&d=1367007487

 

Supercharger, sky-hook idler-bracket, cables, cold-airbox and filter, hoses and clips, couple of loom clips and a belt in a partridge tree :)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168358&d=1367007487

 

And no more tapping from the ICV hose clip :)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168356&d=1367007487

 

 

The nightmare job is jobbed, but I'm not sure I'm happy with it. :looney:

 

Good news is; The porting has increased the efficiency of the exhaust and will need to fit another 2.5" gasket to reduce flow until mapped. :)

 

Bad news is; It sounds just like as before from around the same place. :(

 

If I'm lucky it could be the manifold to mid-pipe joint where I didn't put any paste on the old gasket, or the cat-overheat sensor that had a twisted gasket face.

 

If I'm unlucky it could be another crack hiding or a leak caused by the 3mm bow along the manifold gasket face caused by the welding.

 

Either/or, I'm not getting under to look, I've pushed my spine way to far doing this job already, it's going and :think: it's also going to be up on a lift this weekend to jig up the resonated Y branch and it'll be easier look at it then.

back on 001.JPG

back on 002.JPG

back on 005.JPG

back on 003.JPG

back on 004.JPG

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I've given up aiming for a date, I've cancelled 3 already, I'm just getting on with it as best I can.

 

I'll try and run a 3.2" pulley, but "I'm not sure she'll take it Captain" and might need a less adventurous size too?

 

I have a 3.8" supercharger pulley, yet the 3.6" and 3.4" ordered from the U.S. Sept 2012 have never arrived.

 

I'm unable to grovel around under it much and dependant on lift access to get the underneath jobs done and continuing poor weather isn't helping either.

 

Chronology isn't working for me, so here's a job countdown to mapping that I'll keep updated.

 

 

Underneath jobs

 

Replace/upgrade battery-extension cable and fit new w/m hose

 

Change oil & filter

 

Swap in U.K. spec fuel-tank

 

Replace tail-pipe

 

Re-jig exhaust front bracket

 

Fit, plumb and wire, additional transmission oil-cooler, stat and fan

 

Inspect/adjust or replace steering rack

 

 

Leaning-over jobs

 

Fit Pro alloy tank next to spare wheel

 

Strip and inspect/adjust the t.b, TPS. and re-calibrate both ECU's

 

Upgrade battery-cables

 

Re-plumb bypass valve actuator

 

Fit new idler bearing

 

Test fit 3.8" pulley and shorter belt

 

Fit 2.1 Bar MAP sensor

 

Check supercharger shaft is true

 

Fit and plumb twin ERL pumps

 

Simplify sky-hook bracket idler-adjustment

 

Strip manifold, replace studs and fit new gasket

 

Realign supercharger

 

Fit new spark plugs

 

 

Antipofootwelectrickergarmi jobs

 

Find and fix the cigarette lighter socket & ignition feed circuit Gremlin

 

Tidy up the gauges circuit, organise a few relays

 

Splice the ERL FiA2 into engine loom, twin pumps, Aquamist 2C, w/m gauge and AEM.

 

Fit a potentiometer into the gear-lasers

 

 

Shopping list

 

Oil & filter

 

Idler bearing

 

Plugs

 

3.8", 3.4" & 3.2" Pulleys

 

2.5" and 3" exhaust gaskets

 

4mm vacuum hose-tail

 

2535, 2505? & 2490? Belts

 

6mm unions and push-fit Y fittings

 

M10 1.25 stainless steel bolts

 

New exhaust gasket

 

10.8mm drill bit

 

M12 1.25 tapered and bottom taps

 

 

(Jobs remaining in list in new post)

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I'd play it safe on the map and see how it fairs. Over boosting will only annoy you on the big day.

 

Go 3.8.

 

When's the meth being turned on. I'm very keen to see how your 3x .4 nozzles do with exhaust gases.

 

What psi is it activating?

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I'd play it safe on the map and see how it fairs. Over boosting will only annoy you on the big day.

 

Go 3.8.

 

When's the meth being turned on. I'm very keen to see how your 3x .4 nozzles do with exhaust gases.

 

What psi is it activating?

 

 

Overboosting is not a possibility, it's belt-slip that could be the limiting factor but won't know if it has enough traction until I suck :think: blow it and see! :shrug:

 

3.8" is a fall back pulley size, :think: think I'll get a 3.2" and maybe 3.5", then I'll be geared up for more eventualities on the "big day"!

 

I just said/wrote/posted that chronology isn't working for me. :think:

 

When the sun shines and :think: the cows are laying down in the field, :think: as long as there wasn't a red sky in the morning :think: or more important jobs to job. :shrug:

 

1 pre-supercharger and 3 post charge-cooler = 4 x 0.4 nozzles Noz.

 

Activating @ around 2.5k revs I think? :confused:

 

Progress will be posted on here toute sweet. :thumbs:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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:cool: The sun was shining, :think: in between the showers :think: during the gales :shrug: and the cows were laying down in the field, :search: but at the weekend

there must have been red skies in the mornings because I couldn't get access to the lift. :(

 

So I tinkered around with the t.b and TPS, then recalibrated both ECU's and crossed that off the job-list instead. :shrug:

 

The recent repair to the manifold has resulted with the tail of the mid-pipe moving off centre and the additional resonator is going to be a tight fit, so with the possibility of further works needed, I can't complete the section.

 

Here's a couple of pics of the recycled GTO decat-pipe branch ready to be MIG jigged then TIG welded to the resonator, but the front flange will have to wait until after the goal posts stop moving.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168542&d=1367275552

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=168543&d=1367275552

YY 006.JPG

YY 007.JPG

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I've been thinking about the manifold-blow, :think: it had a planing earlier in it's life and maybe it's because the flange is thinner at one end than the threadless section of stud.

 

The second stud from the left was replaced with a headless bolt, so that'll not be binding and :think: I might just about be able to get at to put a washer behind the first nut.

 

Maybe I'll get lucky for a change. :think:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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