Chris Wilson Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 He really wants a turbo, but has spent too much and is now in denial..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Na mate. I will never believe you dont really want a manual He really wants a turbo, but has spent too much and is now in denial..... You two sound like a pair of old wives. I'm quite capable of knowing what I want, even if it's "not good for me". Top of my want list is a new spine please, because I've worn this one out doing the things I've wanted to! I go my own way, I always have and after my Suprafad has passed, maybe I'll want to have a crack with a wing-suit. Edited April 23, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Nice work David keep going with this it just keeps getting better and better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 The warning light that's on all the time would drive me mental! Can you knock it of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 The warning light that's on all the time would drive me mental! Can you knock it of? The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert. Kaan will like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert. Kaan will like that. Very cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 The AEM hasn't been told what's going on with the cat-overheat sensor, because I haven't done it yet. That'll be cured during next mapping, I've been honing my engine listening diagnostic and logging skills. At this time, the O.E. cat over-heat sensor is plugged in to the loom and tied down behind the radio, yet is to be fitted into a sensor-bung in the branch of the super-insulated manifold and programmed to set off the warning light as an integrated EGT alert. Kaan will like that. Fair play then, lot of time goes in to this an looks like its paying off. Well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Fair play then, lot of time goes in to this an looks like its paying off. Well done Thank you, there's lots more integrated electrickery to come yet, but footwellgarmitronics hurts my neck. I'm learning how to manage and negotiate with my spine and this week the weathers good and I have access to hard standing and I've got at it. Six months ago, the manifold took a hard blow from a curb stone which has resulted with a very small crack somewhere, I could hear it at the back of the engine, but not trace it's whereabouts. A picture fest Noz has requested. Stripped out The white 'budget' wrap used inside the Pharaoh's willy-warmer has turned to ceramic and makes miniature sounds of breaking china as the pieces fall to ground Found the Gremlin Difficult to see Gotchya The magic red triangle wouldn't have found that one I'm having no. 5 re-welded and 4 too if it goes well, so whilst it's off I've cleaned up the ports, they were a far better match than on inlet-side and didn't need much work, just a knock off the casting rough and tidy up, about 1mm or so diameter increase at different wonks to match up to the O.E. gasket, using a flappy-wheel that only just goes into the port, in the drill. Before No. 23 rubber bungs, laid in a plastic bag in the sunshine until all warm and squidgy Stuff em in: Note the black thumbprints, after that my hands were too mucky for camera's until I'd finished and cleaned up Sucked out the muck with a vacuum cleaner and pulled out the plugs 3 different angle After pics of one port That might let another couple of horses out. My hands were too mucky at times to take pics and there was a lot to do in an afternoon, then clean up, pack up, lock up, clean myself up and then walk carrying the manifold over my shoulder for a mile, delivering to an 18.00 deadline. I hope I haven't done too much too soon. Edited April 24, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) I've had an idea, then looked for it on the net and found this below, which would allow improvement of the stock exhaust cam for a supercharged installation. Has anyone knowledge of this used with a 2JZA80? "Using Valve Lash to Help Tune Your Engine This is a little extra tip that is still unknown to many engine builders and tuners. Most people do not realize that you can make subtle performance improvements by slightly opening or closing the recommended lash settings. This is for SOLID LIFTER camshafts ONLY! The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close sooner. Now your engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift. BE CAREFUL - I am suggesting you start with only 0.001 - 0.003" of change in lash. Crazy experimentation can destroy your engine! You can use this tuning method to experiment, finding what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be, and damage may occur if you are not careful. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine it is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004" from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008" recommended. The common gains that people see will be that by reducing the lash will increase top end (upper RPM power) horsepower, and increasing the lash can improve low end torque and acceleration." Complete article here. http://www.centuryperformance.com/fo...ing-Valve-Lash Edited April 24, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Reducing exhaust valve clearance could result in burned seats or valves with bits missing from the edges of the seating area. An extra couple of thou won't make any noticeable change to duration or lift performance. Why didn't you just stuff some strong rag up the ports, rather than ill fitting rubber bungs that fitted where they touched? Brave man porting a head *ON* an engine, never seen that done outside of Asiatic Russia before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) I have adjustable cam-gears to dial out any of that, I'd be pleased to have +8thou lift and a smidgen more duration for the exhaust cam. When warm, those rubber bungs are as soft as ear-plugs and squidge to a perfect fit in the hole. Barn Door Engineering at it's best. Edited April 24, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 High rpm and power depend on balanced components and smoothness and the last thing you want is any slack or tightness in the valve train. Set the lash to recommended spec's and use the pulleys to adjust the overlap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) The components removed have been cleaned ready for reassembly and whilst I can get at them, administered some tinkering to gain a few mm's clearance more, here and there. Manifold is now welded and re-mounted, as per usual, the problem place was a problem to weld and no. 4 went well. There're two studs I'm not happy with and need to replace. Edited April 24, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Cracked weld as suspected. I said on the blower didn't I never heard of a gasket come loose with impact. Though I suppose that would of be a quicker cheaper fix! Glad you got it sorted. My manifold bolts are mild steel, so think when I remove them I'm going to swap for a higher quality material as I'm dreading removing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) I couldn't remember if it had a stock, or a cheapo aftermarket gasket which can fail, there have been a lot of spanners under the bridge since then. During the job I remembered that I changed back to a stock one when I gasket matched the manifold. The Pharaoh is all cozy again and I've cut the cable-bracket mounting stump off the brake master to stop the ICV hose clip tapping on it. That yellow wire is shouting to be sheathed in black Supercharger-bracket, stat & housing, distributor and t.b. Supercharger, sky-hook idler-bracket, cables, cold-airbox and filter, hoses and clips, couple of loom clips and a belt in a partridge tree And no more tapping from the ICV hose clip The nightmare job is jobbed, but I'm not sure I'm happy with it. Good news is; The porting has increased the efficiency of the exhaust and will need to fit another 2.5" gasket to reduce flow until mapped. Bad news is; It sounds just like as before from around the same place. If I'm lucky it could be the manifold to mid-pipe joint where I didn't put any paste on the old gasket, or the cat-overheat sensor that had a twisted gasket face. If I'm unlucky it could be another crack hiding or a leak caused by the 3mm bow along the manifold gasket face caused by the welding. Either/or, I'm not getting under to look, I've pushed my spine way to far doing this job already, it's going and it's also going to be up on a lift this weekend to jig up the resonated Y branch and it'll be easier look at it then. Edited April 26, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 More great perseverence, David. When are you aiming for final mapping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) I've given up aiming for a date, I've cancelled 3 already, I'm just getting on with it as best I can. I'll try and run a 3.2" pulley, but "I'm not sure she'll take it Captain" and might need a less adventurous size too? I have a 3.8" supercharger pulley, yet the 3.6" and 3.4" ordered from the U.S. Sept 2012 have never arrived. I'm unable to grovel around under it much and dependant on lift access to get the underneath jobs done and continuing poor weather isn't helping either. Chronology isn't working for me, so here's a job countdown to mapping that I'll keep updated. Underneath jobs Replace/upgrade battery-extension cable and fit new w/m hose Change oil & filter Swap in U.K. spec fuel-tank Replace tail-pipe Re-jig exhaust front bracket Fit, plumb and wire, additional transmission oil-cooler, stat and fan Inspect/adjust or replace steering rack Leaning-over jobs Fit Pro alloy tank next to spare wheel Strip and inspect/adjust the t.b, TPS. and re-calibrate both ECU's Upgrade battery-cables Re-plumb bypass valve actuator Fit new idler bearing Test fit 3.8" pulley and shorter belt Fit 2.1 Bar MAP sensor Check supercharger shaft is true Fit and plumb twin ERL pumps Simplify sky-hook bracket idler-adjustment Strip manifold, replace studs and fit new gasket Realign supercharger Fit new spark plugs Antipofootwelectrickergarmi jobs Find and fix the cigarette lighter socket & ignition feed circuit Gremlin Tidy up the gauges circuit, organise a few relays Splice the ERL FiA2 into engine loom, twin pumps, Aquamist 2C, w/m gauge and AEM. Fit a potentiometer into the gear-lasers Shopping list Oil & filter Idler bearing Plugs 3.8", 3.4" & 3.2" Pulleys 2.5" and 3" exhaust gaskets 4mm vacuum hose-tail 2535, 2505? & 2490? Belts 6mm unions and push-fit Y fittings M10 1.25 stainless steel bolts New exhaust gasket 10.8mm drill bit M12 1.25 tapered and bottom taps (Jobs remaining in list in new post) Edited May 28, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 I'd play it safe on the map and see how it fairs. Over boosting will only annoy you on the big day. Go 3.8. When's the meth being turned on. I'm very keen to see how your 3x .4 nozzles do with exhaust gases. What psi is it activating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 (edited) I'd play it safe on the map and see how it fairs. Over boosting will only annoy you on the big day. Go 3.8. When's the meth being turned on. I'm very keen to see how your 3x .4 nozzles do with exhaust gases. What psi is it activating? Overboosting is not a possibility, it's belt-slip that could be the limiting factor but won't know if it has enough traction until I suck blow it and see! 3.8" is a fall back pulley size, think I'll get a 3.2" and maybe 3.5", then I'll be geared up for more eventualities on the "big day"! I just said/wrote/posted that chronology isn't working for me. When the sun shines and the cows are laying down in the field, as long as there wasn't a red sky in the morning or more important jobs to job. 1 pre-supercharger and 3 post charge-cooler = 4 x 0.4 nozzles Noz. Activating @ around 2.5k revs I think? Progress will be posted on here toute sweet. Edited April 27, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) The sun was shining, in between the showers during the gales and the cows were laying down in the field, but at the weekend there must have been red skies in the mornings because I couldn't get access to the lift. So I tinkered around with the t.b and TPS, then recalibrated both ECU's and crossed that off the job-list instead. The recent repair to the manifold has resulted with the tail of the mid-pipe moving off centre and the additional resonator is going to be a tight fit, so with the possibility of further works needed, I can't complete the section. Here's a couple of pics of the recycled GTO decat-pipe branch ready to be MIG jigged then TIG welded to the resonator, but the front flange will have to wait until after the goal posts stop moving. Edited May 1, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) I've been thinking about the manifold-blow, it had a planing earlier in it's life and maybe it's because the flange is thinner at one end than the threadless section of stud. The second stud from the left was replaced with a headless bolt, so that'll not be binding and I might just about be able to get at to put a washer behind the first nut. Maybe I'll get lucky for a change. Edited May 1, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 there must have been red skies in the mornings because I couldn't get access to the lift. the front flange will have to wait until after the goal posts stop moving. If you don't stop f'k1n whinging then I'm not going to let you in the workshop again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) The moving goal posts are/is the mid-pipe. The red skies were unfortunately yours and by default mine. Edited May 1, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So 4 0.4mm nozzles, that's total of 18gph ish then? I was aiming for 12. Can't wait to see your temps. Are you going to compare on and off measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 If they flow 18gph, my 10 litre tank won't go far. I don't have an AIT gauge, but the AEM reads it, so I'll be able to give you the temps when it's up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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