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Project Supracharger


David P

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The 4.083 Torsen, A343/0E Hybrid transmission, Suprastick standalone ECU, 285 18 40 wheels/tyres, bespoke-modified valve-body and flappy-paddle controls part(s) of the Project, have at long last come together and has transformed the car from my imagination into a reality.

 

The paddles fall perfectly to hand and are instinctive to use, they give positive feedback and they're smiles better than buttons, the launch is crisp and the constant-thrust changes are fast and tuned perfectly firm for maximum traction on dry tarmac. :thumbs:

 

I'll soon have to let one or two trusted folks have a go to experience just how good it is, otherwise no-one will believe me. :shrug:

 

I've programmed the auto functions to be slightly less aggressive, it's as gentle as a kitten around town yet in the blink of an eye, goes from silent-trundle to a perfect-gear rolling-launch and is off like a stabbed rat :run: with a banshee scream & unbaffled roar. :rlol:

 

To finalise the auto change-speeds to suit the new diff/tyre ratio needs 'wing-man' fine-tuning, but will require repeated WOT pulls in all gears so that'll have to wait until after the remap.

 

I'm a well-chuffed drivingskid.gif happy-chappie with my transmission-collation/development. :)

vb 008.JPG

New diff 002.JPG

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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This looks and sounds awesome!

 

Roughly minus the labour how much would you say the gearbox set up has cost you ?

 

Thank you, :thumbs: it does because it is. :)

 

How long's a piece of string?

 

T.T. auto transmission & prop £150.

Torsen diff £220.

Oil cooler £30.

Modified N/A valve-body; donor transmission £50 plus two-way U.S. shipping then $220 and U.K. taxes.

Suprastick ECU £250 plus shipping and U.K. taxes. (have a spare one I might part with)

Lexus Paddles £30.

Hecklers display LED's, ask him when we've finally cracked it.

Plus pipes, clips, lubricants, wires and things yet not a penny spent on labour.

 

There's info on how to do it in this thread and links to where from(s) in 'my garage'.

 

If you find me at a meet, I'll give you blast in it. :)

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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How long's a piece of string?

 

T.T. auto transmission & prop £150

Torsen diff £220

Oil cooler £30

Modified N/A valve-body; £50 for a donor transmission plus two-way shipping then $220 and U.K. taxes

Suprastick £250 plus shipping and U.K. taxes.

Lexus Paddles £30

Hecklers display LED's, ask him when we've finally cracked it.

Plus pipes, clips, lubricants, wires and things.

 

There's info on how to do it in this thread and links to where from(s) in 'my garage'.

 

Read your thread you say? Easier to ask questions.

 

You doing any Pod events Payne? I need a go agaisnt this down the strip :D Would be some awesome GE block sounds going down!!!

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Read your thread you say? Easier to ask questions.

 

Lazy boy. :spank:

 

You doing any Pod events Payne? I need a go agaisnt this down the strip :D Would be some awesome GE block sounds going down!!!

 

Yes Nozzer, :p

 

I'm itching to run it at the Pod and looking forwards to the day it's up for a fight, I'll soon be ready to throw the gauntlet down. ;)

 

 

Because it's windy and raining today, there are no cyclists, horse riders or walkers out and about, :eyebrows: so I've had another go at trying to capture the operation of the manualised transmission function.

 

No heroics, just a standard, stay on your own side and get there sooner rather than later play-time trundle on a narrow, bumpy, busy, wet and slippery B road, using over gesticulated (so you can see what I'm doing) and completely unnecessary gear-changes playing tunes with the supercharger to demo the system more times in the clip :confused: and to prevent you from getting bored waiting for the next corner and :think: ''because I can''. :love:

 

These days my favourite B road is both too uneven and too busy for mega-leptons, so my speed limit is when tools and 'things' start leaping about in the back. :shrug:

 

Driving on wet-roads with the dry-road settings, is good-old-fashioned right-foot steering & seat of your pants fun, :) with little oversteers here and there, forcing traction loss @ 2.13 and a one handed wiggly rolling-launch and gear-change manoeuvre @ 2.30.

 

Traction is very good yet if provoked, a bit of right foot adjustment or changing up sorts it out.

 

All nicely predictable and quickly and easily controllably correctable, :think: even one handed during fingertip gear-change control activity. :cool:

 

I'll get the gear-lights up and running and into the equation soon, they're a useful reminder for which cog it's in and the visual confirmation of torque-convertor lock-up is both a useful indicator when driving and for setting up the ECU on the run.

 

This flappy-paddled Hybrid thrust-convertor transmission collation, is a perfect fingertip-controlled solution for the torque & traction equation and is equally as awesome as the supercharger conversion.

 

Amazingly Awesome fun to drive/pilot. :yahoo:

 

And will have even more awesomeness to play with after the coming soon re-map. :sly:

 

 

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Today was the :trophy: first for a very long time that the weather has been :cool: pleasant enough for my brain to function in :idea: electrickery mode.

 

For a warm-up I fixed the change-up light and re-wired the fan-stat, then chased the intermittent-tickover Gremlin around the looms until I found it .......

:scared: hiding in a sensor.

 

I knew an old lady swallowed a fly, :think: but this Gremlin takes the biscuit!

 

The engine water-temp sensor is on the blink but only when at maximum engine operating temperature, this blink is in the same circuit as the TPS which at tickover is controlling the engine timing. The AEM is O.K. with this, but the TPS is also connected to the Suprastick which is confused by the .03v fluctuation out of sync with other values and back-feeding it to the AEM causing the timing to fluctuate at tickover when at maximum operating temperature. :shrug:

 

:hunter: Got the blighter!

 

Thank you Shane for the loan of your spare. :thumbs:

 

Now that's out of the way, I'll re-install the gear-lights box of tricks.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I'm itching to fit stronger springs into the actuator and get the 1st to 2nd change as fast as the others, but there are more important jobs to do underneath when I next get some prime-time on the lift. :shrug:

 

I've now discovered how to use engine-braking in all gears in manualised-mode, which makes it an even better drive. :)

 

I'll make another clip after the gear-lights are in and up and running.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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It's shaping up nicely and now I have 2nd gear engine-braking it's fantabulous. :)

 

I'd like to tinker about with the actuators and get the 1st to 2nd change-time down to match the others, yet I instinctively pre-empt the first change and it's not a problem, if fact it's all part of the fun.

 

I can't program the auto-modes until after the remap and the transmission is now ready to dyno at more power.

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Fantastic work David!! Looks like it has all come together quite nicely! I am loving the paddle shifts both on looks & how sharply it is shifting the gears!

 

Well you can now say you did it whilst a lot of people said you couldn't. Being brutally honest I wasn't even sure myself it would work so well, pat on your back throughly deserved.

 

:)

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I'm beginning to feel I could claim it the most tinkered on the planet!

 

I've spent all day getting the function lights functioning, it was a monster wind-up Gremlin-fest, but eventually cracked it by fitting a couple of diodes in the Suprastick feed reducing the voltage down to 12.5.

 

I wish that that was that, but now they're up and running they're more like lasers than LED's and I need to fit a potentiometer to calm them down a bit so I'll be able to see where I'm going in the dark, nevertheless, many thanks to Heckler for the bespoke box of tricks.

 

Here's a clip of them in action showing torque-convertor lock-up control and with engine braking.

 

MANU = Manaulised mode - O/D OFF = Sport mode

 

TC Lock-up 1st 2nd 3rd OD/4th

 

Change-up

 

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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I shall allow you into the workshop this weekend.. On the condition that I am allowed a go with your flaps!

 

Those exhaust components have been in the back for 3 weeks now waiting for that offer, I'll be happy to let you fondle my flaps to put an end to the rattling. :shrug:

 

Cheers. :thumbs:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Loving the bit where you go to grab the gear stick around 40-50 seconds. Someone missing a manual are they? :)

 

Manualised-mode shift-lever positions;

 

D = All 4 gears available, with engine braking in 4th and 3rd.

 

2 = 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear available, with engine braking in 3rd and 2nd.

 

L = 1st and 2nd & gear available, with engine braking in 2nd and 1st.

 

4th gear is not needed for a B road trundle, but I used it to demo all the lights.

 

In readiness for use of 4th gear or 2nd with engine braking, D to 2 @ 0.22, 2 to D @ 0.43 and D to 2 @ 1.46. :shrug:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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