David P Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Several months ago, I drove very slowly over a kerb-stone in a dodgy car park and clonked the exhaust at the front, unfortunately, it appears this has cracked a weld somewhere on the manifold? As if I hadn't enough back tortures to attend to. If anyone has an N/A exhaust manifold gasket gathering dust, please contact me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 What nozzles did you use for your water/meth setup David? I would like to install a nozzle per cylinder, thought I would ask how you went about your setup? I would assume, the total flow would be the same for most 2JZ setups, only differing with the position and number of nozzles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) If your second name was Les you might know Noz. It's all detailed in 'my garage'. I plan to use an ERL FiA2 to drive 4 x 0.4mm NozLes @ 15% fuel parallel, one pre supercharger and 3 post charge-cooler, which is right at the max flow of one ERL pump, so will be running twins. One larger pump would do it, but noisily. There's an Aquamist forum that'll answer all your questions. Edited April 12, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 0.04? Do you mean 0.4mm? 15% sounds reasonable. im planning on running water first to see a drop in temps, as long as its running ok il order some meth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Yes I mean 0.4mm, edited. 13% to 15% fuel parallel is regarded as optimum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Did you work out your boost pressure for meth injection or did you consider fuel pressure as well? I know 10% for water, and 15% for 50/50 is good practice. That would be what id be looking at I reckon. I may start with 10% water just so I understand what the hell Im doing. I'm going for per cylinder setup. il call you later for a chat be great to bounce some ideas around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Fuel pressure is not part of this equation, the Professional Aquamist Guru will sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guigsy Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 found your next mod david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 A Triple Whipple. That's a blow job and a half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 (edited) Making extensively good use of profanities in several languages, I've managed to get Hyperterminal to function. I've found that it requires a re-boot and re-entry of some unusual parameters after every time I start the engine and/or ignore the program for more than 2 minutes. It's a monster ******* wind-up, but in fits and starts, I've managed to program in the changed parameters for final drive and TPS. Et Voila, I now have auto-mode for the transmission. I've also reduced the torque-converter stall-speed to 2k and increased the lock-up speed and been for a test drive. Today the B roads are heaving with horse riders, cyclists, walkers, farmers and everyones uncle Tom Cobley, so no vids until this outburst of springtime at last, gay abandon has passed. These changes have halved again the recently quartered 1st to 2nd change time and the others are now lightning fast. At WOT in 1st, pressing the button at 5k engages 2nd by 6k, (that's fast) pulling the revs down to 4k and keeping it in the max torque band. It'll need a fine tuning, but at long last, the gearbox is working how I want it to. Edited April 13, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) The paddles are final-fitted and finally wired in and flapping. I know they only do what the buttons were already doing, yet they're more tactile to use and give positive engagement, they look trendy too. It doesn't look to be much of a job, but I promise that you really-really need to really-really want them to do it. Another angle of the dangle, just in case you thought they were on the wonk. Edited April 14, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Looks good David. Whats the LED's under the rev gauge btw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guigsy Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 wow. you have a tape! i havent seen one of those in 20 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) Looks good David. Whats the LED's under the rev gauge btw? Cheers. Gear and torque-converter lock indicators, details and vids in the drive-train section of 'my garage'. wow. you have a tape! i havent seen one of those in 20 years It's only there to fill the hole in the dash, I listen to the supercharger channel. Edited April 14, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) That flappy pedal gear wheel looks the dog's nose! It's certainly nothing to sniff at. Edited April 15, 2013 by Morpheus (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 I'd love to see this car go manual one day! The paddles look cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) That flappy pedal gear wheel looks the dog's nose! It's certainly nothing to sniff at. Maybe I need a pic of it cocking a leg in the twisties. I'd love to see this car go manual one day! The paddles look cool If I was silly enough to spend 6k on a Getrag & clutch to make it go slower and wear the tyres out faster, there would then be half a dozen redundant cool flappy-paddles & buttons. Edited April 15, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 I'd love to see this car go manual one day! The paddles look cool Without wanting to clog up David's thread too much, can I ask why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 If I was silly enough to spend 6k on a Getrag & clutch to make it go slower and wear the tyres out faster, there would then be half a dozen redundant cool flappy-paddles & buttons. well said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMB Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Thats Too Cool !!!! Now you can even change the steering wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) Thats Too Cool !!!! Now you can even change the steering wheel The eventual plan is to have it re-covered and be thicker wristed. Fitting the flappy-paddles put a mind-bendingly random Gremlin into the manualised gear-changes. It would appear they're not simple momentary switches and must have a gizmo of some sort inside, there are 4 different combinations for the electrickery and it was of course the last configuration of re-soldered joints onto the microswitch terminals to be tried that worked properly. I've been out and made a video-clip, it took an hour of B road stalking to find 20 seconds of peace and I only managed one run. A rough uphill straight that proved a bit lively north of 90 Leptons causing my tools and things to leap about a bit in the back, but it was that or nowt. The gauge (1 down) shows full boost by 3k but I'm sure it's lagging behind, the AFR (Top) shows a nice steady 12 and the mil light is telling me that it doesn't like the cat overheat sensor living behind the radio. The copper plugs haven't been touched since it was mapped 8k miles ago and they're no longer happy over 6k revs, so was aiming for changes @ 6k. WOT stresses cause slower changes and 1st to 2nd takes the longest, I was a nodger late with the first two, but not too bad for my first blast with the new setup. Constant-thrust change-times @ WOT are down to around; 1st to 2nd 0.9 sec, 2nd to 3rd 0.2 sec and 3rd to O.D. 0.3 sec. Suprastick is set @ 2k revs stall-speed (shown by the traction skip) and 0.1 sec lock-up delay which can be reduced to 0.0 for faster changes, but that 100 milliseconds 'softener' gives the best traction on dry tarmac. The 2nd to 3rd actuator has the strongest pair of springs and gives the fastest change, so when more important jobs are out of the way, I'll fit stronger springs into the others and see if I can get them all down to around 200 milliseconds for road use and 100 ms for the strip. Edited April 16, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nicholas Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 How much power is this making David? it looks very sluggish in that video after 1st. The eventual plan is to have it re-covered and be thicker wristed. Fitting the flappy-paddles put a mind-bendingly random Gremlin into the manualised gear-changes. It would appear they're not simple momentary switches and must have a gizmo of some sort inside, there are 4 different combinations for the electrickery and it was of course the last configuration of re-soldered joints onto the microswitch terminals to be tried that worked properly. I've been out and made a video-clip, it took an hour of B road stalking to find 20 seconds of peace and I only managed one run. A rough uphill straight that proved a bit lively north of 90 Leptons causing my tools and things to leap about a bit in the back, but it was that or nowt. The gauge (1 down) shows full boost by 3k but I'm sure it's lagging behind, the AFR (Top) shows a nice steady 12 and the mil light is telling me that it doesn't like the cat overheat sensor living behind the radio. The copper plugs haven't been touched since it was mapped 8k miles ago and they're no longer happy over 6k revs, so was aiming for changes @ 6k. WOT stresses cause slower changes and 1st to 2nd takes the longest, I was a nodger late with the first two, but not too bad for my first blast with the new setup. Constant-thrust change-times @ WOT are down to around; 1st to 2nd 0.9 sec, 2nd to 3rd 0.2 sec and 3rd to O.D. 0.3 sec. Suprastick is set @ 2k revs stall-speed (shown by the traction skip) and 0.1 sec lock-up delay which can be reduced to 0.0 for faster changes, but that 100 milliseconds 'softener' gives the best traction on dry tarmac. The 2nd to 3rd actuator has the strongest pair of springs and gives the fastest change, so when more important jobs are out of the way, I'll fit stronger springs into the others and see if I can get them all down to around 200 milliseconds for road use and 100 ms for the strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) How much power is this making David? it looks very sluggish in that video after 1st. Those details are displayed both in this thread and 'my garage'. When last mapped it had 352 bhp at the flywheel, but since then I've fitted a 3" baffle-less exhaust system and changed the TPS, both of which have upset the timing and as I mentioned, the plugs have seen better days too. Presently I'm running 2.5" gaskets as restrictors in the 3" system and adding a max dose of octane booster to V Power to keep it behaving for now. 4 gears have longer legs than 5 or 6 and I thought 0 - 60 in 5? secs and 0 - 100 in 11/12? wasn't bad for an uphill run on a cart-track with dodgy-plugs and a dicky-map. As soon as I've managed to get the additional resonator section TIG welded and the water/meth installation finalised, I'll fit a 3.8" supercharger pulley and new plugs then take it for a remap. The video-clip was intended to demonstrate my achievements with the Manualised Hybrid transmission, yet other than "cool looking paddles" no-one seems to 'get it' yet, but I'm chuffed with how it's shaping up. Edited April 18, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Hows your exhaust gases looking on full chat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Like I said the gauge says 12, but when you're up this way, if you can keep up you can have a look and let me know. Edited April 16, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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