Project Supracharger

[David P]

Good work !!

Try and keep the Throttle body as close to the charger intake as possible , and or use as large pipework as possible ,same with the filter to throttle body pipework .

Any vacuum at the intake of the charger as it sucks in air via TB and filter works against you , if say you have 2 psi vacuum at max RPM , then this is subtracted from the boost pressure .

too big a restriction in pipework or filter will cause a vacuum to be created , the charger also draws crankshaft torque to "make " the vacuum

 

Hello Adam,

 

Thanks for the input and positive comment.

As can be seen in the pics, whether it likes it or not, the t.b. will go where it fits in this scrapyard jigsaw puzzle.

The pipework between t.b. and s.c. has an i.d. 5mm larger than the t.b. and the flexi vacuum hose forms a nice 'flowing' bend.

Pre t.b. will be an 80 to 102mm 90o silicone elbow, directly to a K&N filter in a cold air fed box similar to my present set up.

Bearing in mind the limits of the T.T. auto transmission, I think there will be more than sufficient breath from this arrangement to have it worried enough.

Next job is to raise the top of the front leg by 11mm to achieve the finished height, and to weld on the t.b. flange.

Having different manifolds on the engine and jig is a PITA, I shall be pleased when the sky hook guessmeasurey is over and the bracketry complete.

 

 

Your a talented guy with alot of skill mate,wish I could do half of this stuff. Keep up the good work

 

Dave,

 

Thanks for your 'vote of confidence'.

 

Yet all l I have achieved so far, is to reduce perfectly good components into a 3D jigsaw puzzle, and set myself on fire.

 

I am looking forwards to nailing them into place.

Edited January 8, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

I have been wishing that I hadn't found that little square of 8mm steel that was almost the right size for the t.b. flange, it is as hard as flint.

The front leg is now at the finished height and plane with the top of the block, with the t.b. mounted and first section of induction tacked into place.

I will have a test fit on the car tomorrow to see if it needs any tweaking before welding.

 

Edited January 9, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

I have pruned off a mounting lug from the water pump, extended the O2 sensor wire and tidied up the loom to maximise available space.

The trial fitting of the jig built t.b. mounting, ended up with taking it off and spotting it back on again, it is tighter in there than a good saturday night.

I even needed to trim the plastic loop off the T.P.S. connector and shorten the connector body to make it on and offable.

I will measure the engine movement under load, yet I am reasonably sure that it will not foul, if it does I will tweak the spring hanger across a little to clear.

I have decided that to use vacuum hose was not one of my better ideas, so will complete the induction in stainless pipe, it is half the price of alloy too.

 

Edited January 10, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

After all the tales of woe I have read about changing the jag s.c. pulley, I was dreading this job.

 

I set it up on the hydraulic press on a pair of well fitting 'half moons' and it 'cracked' and eased off a treat, then simply pressed the new quick change centre on.

 

The lesser of the 2 offsets possible with this pulley lines up nicely and spaces the inside s.c. mounting nut just clear of the distributor.

 

I will have to set it up and tack the bracket in situ on the car, because there isn't a power steering pump/pulley on the jig to work to.

This pulley is a 3.8", which is too small for the job, but will be fine for aligning the charger and completing the bracket whilst I have a 4.4" made.

Have also been for a routle around the scrapyard looking for some 4mm alloy plate to build the charge cooler, I only found enough for half the job, but was amused by it's origin.

 

Edited January 12, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

I have spoken with the local engineer about making a 4.4" pulley, but he doesn't know where to get a billet of 'aircraft quality' aluminium without the aircraft price tab?

 

I have also asked the American manufacturer of the 3.8" pulley, but they claim not to be able to get a piece large enough?

 

 

What is the correct term for the quality of aluminium required to make this pulley?

 

Yet more importantly, does anyone know where I can get a piece of this elusive alloy?

Edited January 12, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

I have discovered that 6061 - T6 is the grade of aluminium required to make the 4.4" pulley, and have found it available in billets up to 120mm diameter if I buy a container load from China.

 

But yet to find a source for a little piece, does anyone know where I could get an off cut?

Edited January 13, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[barneybrendan]

try the guys in the link,they made my crank pulley and are very helpfull on the phone.

 

http://www.cdfracing.co.uk/

[David P]

Thanks for the lead Barney.

 

I will give them a call.

[David P]

That was "simples"

 

£80 + VAT + £4 P&P made using 6082-T6 and dispatched 5 days after receiving pattern.

 

Found this too.

 

6082-T6 Brinell n/a, Vickers 95 YS: 260 MPa, 37700 psi

6061-T6 Brinell 95, Vickers 107 YS: 276 MPa, 40000 psi

6351-T6 Brinell 95, Vickers 107 YS: 283 MPa, 41000 psi

6151-T6 Brinell 100,Vickers 112 YS: 295 MPa, 42800 psi

6009-T6 Brinell 91, Vickers 102 YS: 320 MPa, 46400 psi

6070-T6 Brinell 120,Vickers 137 YS: 352 MPa, 51000 psi

6066-T6 Brinell 120,Vickers 137 YS: 359 MPa, 52000 psi

6013-T651 n/a, Vickers 149 YS: 359 MPa(min), 52100 psi(min)

6033 T6 Brinell 120, n/a YS: 393 MPa, 57000 psi

6069-T6 n/a, n/a YS: 441 MPa, 64000 psi

Edited June 23, 2012 by David P (see edit history)

[Shane]

try the guys in the link,they made my crank pulley and are very helpfull on the phone.

 

http://www.cdfracing.co.uk/

 

I used CDF too to make the custom pulley I required for my water pump. Excellent service and quality product.

[David P]

Whilst waiting arrival of the stainless steel bends required to complete the induction, I have terminated both ends of the t.b. hot water pipe.

 

The N/A t.b. will need to come off for the next trial fitting and this pipe is not used, so it might as well be gone.

 

I have also changed the fuel pump for a U.K. spec version, I was expecting this to be a 'plug & play' job, it plugged in everywhere O.K. but does not want to play!

 

The pump operates whilst the starter is turning, the engine starts and the pump turns off?

 

Does anyone know the answer to this Supra electrickery conundrum?

 

Edited July 31, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[Shane]

David,

 

There is only live and neutral to the pump so any loss of feed has to be from the ecu end, sorry to be be the bearer of bad tidings. Look at this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?192807-Engine-runs-while-cranking-but-then-dies&highlight=shane+fuel+pump as I had similar problems a while ago on the NA and it turned out to be the ecu cooked, due to I believe a crap battery connection. Since mine I have come across another member with exact same problem. Stick +12v down the FP pin on the diag socket and that will keep it running after you back off from cranking if it's like mine.

Whilst waiting arrival of the stainless steel bends required to complete the induction, I have terminated both ends of the t.b. hot water pipe.

The t.b. will need to come off for the next trial fitting and it won't be used, so it might as well be gone

 

I have also changed the fuel pump for a U.K. spec version, I was expecting this to be a 'plug & play' job, it plugged in everywhere O.K. but does not want to play!

The pump operates whilst the starter is turning, the engine starts and the pump turns off?

 

Does anyone know the answer to this Supra electrickery conundrum?

[David P]

As a workaround I have pinned out B+ & Fp in the diagnostic port, but this arrangement is; ignition on, pump on.

 

I have discovered that the T.T. has a fuel pump ECU that increases the power to the fuel pump when on boost, but not sure of the wiring for the N/A.

I will investigate more when it is not dark and raining.

Edited January 16, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[Shane]

Shoot over next weekend and stick my na ecu in to at least eliminate it from the equation. Think you will find the na doesn't have the fp ecu, when I traced the pump wiring the voltage simply wasn't leaving the ecu, other than when cranking. Had the battery off or used yours to jump another recently?

As a workaround I have pinned out B+ & Fp in the diagnostic port, but this arrangement is; ignition on, pump on.

 

I have discovered that the T.T. has a fuel pump ECU that increases the power to the fuel pump when on boost, but not sure of the wiring for the N/A.

[David P]

Shane,

 

Thanks for the offer, but if the ECU is cooked, it was the U.K. pump that fried it!

 

I don't want to fry yours too.

 

Tomorrow I will phone Keron, if anyone knows, he will.

At a guess, I may need to fit a T.T. fuel pump ECU.

[Shane]

I wouldn't have thought the current draw on a UK TT pump would have been that different compared with the jspec pump. I presume you didn't think to power it up first to check it wasn't seized? If it was blocked or seized when you first used it I suppose it could have drawn a fair bit of current before it free'd and pressured up. But that said I would be very surprised if Mr T designed the regulator circuitry within the ecu not to withstand such loads or even some short circuit protection. Does your eml light come on now?

 

 

Shane,

 

Thanks for the offer, but if the ECU is cooked, it was the U.K. pump that fried it!

 

I don't want to fry yours too.

 

Tomorrow I will phone Keron, if anyone knows, he will.

At a guess, I may need to fit a T.T. fuel pump ECU.

[barneybrendan]

I always thought that the na and tt pumps are the same.

[Shane]

I always thought that the na and tt pumps are the same.

 

I believe so in the case of Jspec, the odd one out is the UK spec which had a higher flow rate for some reason. Thing is in the case of David's, even if the UK pump was a bit bigger, the pump would not be working any harder than the original as at present his demand for fuel is the same so I am sure it is not the pump that caused the problem. I can see why one would think that, as it was working ok until he swapped them, but I don't think it is the difference in pump spec that has killed it. In the case of mine, it was down to a loose battery terminal, and my mates TVR which suffered a ECU failure was due to a crap earth connection from the battery. This generation of ECU don't like spikes.

[David P]

No fault codes.

Apparently, the T.T. pump runs at 2 different voltages, low power for cruise, and high power when suppling demand for boost, the T.T. pump ECU controls this.

The N/A pump ECU won't have this arrangement and the U.K. pump also draws more watts.

 

There was I thinking it was a simple job.

 

I hope the pump is happy to run at full tilt for a few hours, because i'm going on a trip tomorrow.

Edited January 16, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

B+ to Fp held up for the grand tour to AFR, SRD and then Sheerness on the way back, with very positive results.

 

I dropped off the skirts and spats for Jagman. (Adam)

 

Dude (John) was very helpful with my project, and from amongst his collection of Supra treasures he routled out a T.T. auto bell housing, flex plate complete with shims and bolts and a dead power steering pump.

 

Thank you very much.

 

Then on to SRD to pick up Jamies' seats where Lee was very helpful too, he had a routle around and found me a T.T. torque converter.

 

Thank you very much.

 

Then on to Sheerness to pick up a T.T. auto trans from Miguel.

 

Thank you very much too.

 

That leaves just the N/A trans to collect, and then I can begin to hybridise the two.

Edited January 18, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[jagman]

It may be an easier solution for the pump , and save any ECU current issues to wire in a separate circuit :

use a quality supply cable and earth to the Uk pump and fit a generic relay powered by ignition .

This means there is no pump shut off protection in the event of a crash - not good!

So wire in an inertia switch cut out to the relay , this switches off the pump in a crash .

Triumph stag one has a reset on the top and some Jag ones .

They are basically a large ball bearing in a tube and the inertia of the ball opens the switch , cheap too !!

[Miguel]

Can you not just use a simple fuel pump relay that has a tach trigger? Plenty of them kicking about in the scrappies.

[David P]

Cheers for the input.

 

The EFI fuse is good and the engine managment light is behaving normally too.

I will try swopping the EFI relays and an N/A f.p. ECU for a T.T. version before rewiring the circuit.

Edited January 18, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Picked up a T.T. fuel pump ECU from Keron today, I will swop it tomorrow in the daylight and see if it cures the pump.

 

I have been tinkering with the supercharger induction elbow, modifying it to fit up-side-down and removing unwanted flanges.

This casting is to be 'busy' with a bypass valve, idle control valve, brake servo vacuum banjo, closed circuit oil breather banjo, water/meth nozzle and 4 vacuum pipes to BpV, fuel pressure regulator, power steering and ECU vacuum sensor.

 

Edited January 22, 2011 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

N/A fuel pump ECU out, T.T. f.p. ECU in, and the job is jobbed, thankfully, a simple plug and play fix.

 

I have modified the gasket face of the supercharger elbow to fit snugly up-side-down and clear the two s.c. rotor bearing caps, and have found all the little bolts, banjos and vacuum fittings required.

 

The metric threaded banjos are fitted, yet I now need to find a 1/8" BSPT tap for the supercharger elbow and throttle body vacuum and oil breather fittings, and 1/8" and 3/8" NPT taps to fit the AEM MAP and AIT sensors into the distribution knuckle.

 

Each and every component requires several modifications and these tasks are time consuming.

 

I have yet to fathom out the best way to redesign the bypass valve, currently it has a 'Y' branch that originally connected to both banks of the V8 it was designed for, yet one branch fouls on the Autobahn manifold, and the other will foul on the yet to be fabricated induction pipe.

I will have to wait until the 76mm stainless bends arrive to fabricate the pipe, then cut off the Y and replace it with one larger pipe without damaging the butterfly inside and find a route between the two.

 

Edited January 22, 2011 by David P (see edit history)