Need help tuning n/a

[Nic]

Got a few plans for her.

I've got an HKS super power flow induction kit which I will make a heat shield for.

 

The HKS filters are notoriously bad at filtering and a heat shield will make b*gger all difference, it'll still be sucking in hot air from under the bonnet, which will reduce power. The stock airbox is a far better option, it is sealed from the engine bay heat, has 2 cold air feeds and is not restrictive - an almost identical airbox is fitted to the TT.

 

bushed should stiffen things up on the bendy stuff.

 

I wouldn't bother with poly bush kit, if you want the best handling then replace any worn suspension components with new OEM Toyota parts.

[Dnk]

The HKS filters are notoriously bad at filtering and a heat shield will make b*gger all difference, it'll still be sucking in hot air from under the bonnet, which will reduce power. The stock airbox is a far better option, it is sealed from the engine bay heat, has 2 cold air feeds and is not restrictive - an almost identical airbox is fitted to the TT.

 

I wouldn't bother with poly bush kit, if you want the best handling then replace any worn suspension components with new OEM Toyota parts.

 

As Nic says above, HKS filter isnt great and you'll get no advantage from it, get an Apexi or K & N panel filter for the o/e airbox. Polybush kit also isnt great and doesnt replace the ball joints on the 8 wishbones either.

Go o/e or if your feeling really flash get the Ikeya control arms but their even more than o/e which aren't cheap, polybushing is a cheap n nasty way to re bush the suspension.

[David P]

Thanks for the compliment gazzi.

I have been tinkering with my N/A for the last 12 months.

This has not been a buy it and bolt it on excercise, few have bothered to develop the N/A and consequently, both information and 'effective' bolt on goodies are rare.

Many of the components used have been designed, built, redesigned and rebuilt by myself, then tested and retested by the seat of my pants until developed/evolved into modifications that give more power.

Photographs and details of these developments are posted in 'my garage' and albums, where there is extensive information recorded.

 

I am expecting the final components required to complete the build to arrive in the next few days, so in a few short weeks it will be ready for the day of reckoning on the rollers.

 

I am keener than anyone to see my labours reduced to a number.

 

Edited November 20, 2010 by David P (see edit history)

[pezzler]

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=123263&d=1290278569

 

Thats the most attractive N/A engine bay i've seen!

[Monkpower]

Some good advice! Thanks peeps. Its not so much having noses put out of joint, speaking for myself I don't think I could afford to run a TT.

Looks like i'll be after a stock airbox. I've heard from a few other members that the stock setup with an aftermarket panel filter is best.

I'm a first time Supra owner and as such i'm learning.

Any more tips and advice..

[Nic]

I'm a first time Supra owner and as such i'm learning.

Any more tips and advice..

 

First thing I would do would be to give the car a full service if it hasn't been done for a while, new fluids, plugs, filters, distributor cap, rotor arm, plug leads and oxygen sensors should make a significant difference.

 

I'd then look at optimising the brakes with good quality pads, braided lines and decent fluid. A Cusco brake master cylinder stopper or Carbing brace with BMC stopper built in would also help firm up the pedal feel.

 

Good quality tyres and a full geometry check should also be a must.

[David P]

Nic,

 

I have seen reference to fitting new O2 sensors on many occasions, and the soak them in lemon juice overnight remedy.

Bearing in mind the cost of these items, can they be tested to learn if they require changing before spending what might be just for the sake of it?

[Nic]

Nic,

 

I have seen reference to fitting new O2 sensors on many occasions, and the soak them in lemon juice overnight remedy.

Bearing in mind the cost of these items, can they be tested to learn if they require changing before spending what might be just for the sake of it?

 

Yes they can be tested with a multimeter I believe but someone else will need to explain how as I'm not sure.

[Tricky-Ricky]

You will need to locate the correct pins of the ECU preferably, but not imperative,but make sure you have the + and - and not the heater wires, you should see an alternating voltage of between 0.2 and

0.8v this swing will be regular, about once every two seconds, if it shows a constant voltage or if the swing is very slow, its likely that its fooked, you can also test with an oscilloscope.

Edited November 21, 2010 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history)

[David P]

Thanks for that snippet, I will check the next time I am tinkering down there.

Yet I have a wideband O2 sensor and the gauge reads 14.5 to 14.7 in closed loop so would suspect that this indicates they are functioning correctly.

 

(Excuse the thread hijack)

[Ian C]

David,

A way of checking them with the diagnostic port is detailed in the bottom bit of this FAQ entry:

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35940-Narrowband-O2-Sensor

 

It doesn't specifically mention a broken o2 sensor, I'll go amend that now

 

-Ian

[Morpheus]

To the OP, first, empty a bottle of Wynn's or Lucas injector cleaner (about £7-10) into a quarter of a tank of petrol so that it's concentrated and blast it through the engine.

 

You'd be surprised at how much they clog up.

 

I saw an episode of Chop Shop a while ago when they fitted a Swedish supercharger (can't remember the name) into a Porsche 944 I think and it went to 292hp from 168 if I recall.

 

It was a small belt driven unit that looked like a cross between an electric motor and a turbo. As for cost, who knows but very effective and compact.

 

My 'old' NA that I just parted with has a 3" intake pipe all the way down into the front bumper cover offside vent. I've driven it in the most torrential rain and no problems. There's plenty that you can do to an NA. Just changing the spark plugs on my MKIII manual NA to Bosch Super 4's made a huge difference but not sure if they do them for the 2JZ. Brisk Racing plugs apparently too, as used by David2009 along with Nology Hotwires. MSD do capacitive discharge multi-spark systems, which are very popular in The States.

 

The main thing is to make sure that it's running as it should stock, before modifying anything, one step at a time, or you'll not know which mod is effective.

 

Full service (Mobil 1 or another fully synthetic atleast) then take it to a tuning shop for AFR and idle adjustments. Chances are the head needs decoking and seals replaced, valves reseated etc.

 

Can't beat a new headgasket and valve job. If done properly it should allow the car to float away under light throttle instead of revving it's guts out and going nowhere because the compression is poor. Have that checked too. Vital for power and efficiency.

[David P]

Ian,

 

Thank you for the link, I will check that, are both the N/A O2 sensors wired to that pin?

[Ian C]

Alas I don't know, sorry. My experience with NA's is minimal. There might even be two OX pins in the diag port, I'll see what I can find.

[Ian C]

I've had a look in the PDFs and there is an OX1 and OX2 for euro/uk spec TTs but the non-turbo PDF is a bit useless shedding any light on the diagnostics port - it seems to read that the NA only has one port (called DLC3) and it's OBD-II compliant, unlike the TT. Not very helpful as it just says to use a scanner and doesn't mention any of the pinout details

 

Unusefully, my pinout chart of the NA doesn't list any oxygen sensor connections at all They are pins E9-47 and E9-48 on the TT if that helps, see if you've got a wire there and if so, check it's voltage at the ECU.