Glanza_Mike Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Hi everyone, I am going to be upgrading my Supra NA to an NA-T over the winter and I just have a few questions for you experienced people If i get a decent sized turbo (i.e. Precision 6765 billet) how do you get around the distributor? Do you weld on a TT cam sensor bracket and go for coil packs, or is there a smaller distributor cap i can run? or maybe the turbo will clear the cap anyway? Thanks in advance for your help or suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 It's not the turbo that will catch, it's the air filter. I use a rav 4 v6 dizzy. They are much thinner. I think there is a thread on club na-t. Have a look or I will find it for you Tom. Hope that helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Why a 6765? You won't get the best out of a bigger turbo at the lower boost you will need to run on an NA. You'd get better results with a smaller turbo. Most off the shelf NA-T turbo kits are designed to fit around the distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Use a 4Runner distributer cap, 19101-65040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 Thanks for the Rav 4 idea Steve, use the same HT leads? and Nic i'm going to be putting a 2mm head-gasket on the engine so the compression will be under 9-1. I'm getting a getrag box as well so i shouldn't have to worry about running low boost. Oh one more question is the 6 speed a straight swap or will i need the prop as well? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 What horsepower are you aiming for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 Not really a specific number but i'd like to get around 600hp atw I've seen the chaps over the pond have made 800hp atw with stockish NA longblocks so i thought i'd give it a go because i found a nice clean shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 hi mate , i wouldnt reccoment the 2mm h/g route , if you are going to lower the compression get a set of stock 2jz-gte pistond and drop them in , that will give you around a 9.3-1 . someone far more inteligent should be along shortly explain the squishy /squash needed for the engine to be optimal , lowering the compression via the h/g is a botchy way of doing things . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Not really a specific number but i'd like to get around 600hp atw I've seen the chaps over the pond have made 800hp atw with stockish NA longblocks so i thought i'd give it a go because i found a nice clean shell. It's certainly possible, though the costs will certainly start escalating once you look at a fuel setup to support that HP. You'll also need to look at upgrading your brakes if you're on J-spec stuff. I'm looking at a slightly lower power level than you, probably around 500 at the wheels but i'm going to either fit a 2JZ-GTE or possibly a VVTI 1JZ-GTE rather than go NA-T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 hi mate , i wouldnt reccoment the 2mm h/g route , if you are going to lower the compression get a set of stock 2jz-gte pistond and drop them in , that will give you around a 9.3-1 . someone far more inteligent should be along shortly explain the squishy /squash needed for the engine to be optimal , lowering the compression via the h/g is a botchy way of doing things . Hey, thanks for your advice, if you believe i should be running a higher ratio then i can use the standard 1.3mm TT h/g for around 9.2-1. Or is this still going to negatively affect the Squish of the chambers? It's certainly possible, though the costs will certainly start escalating once you look at a fuel setup to support that HP. You'll also need to look at upgrading your brakes if you're on J-spec stuff. I'm looking at a slightly lower power level than you, probably around 500 at the wheels but i'm going to either fit a 2JZ-GTE or possibly a VVTI 1JZ-GTE rather than go NA-T. Yea like i said i don't really have a specific HP goal in mind i'm sure if i sat in 500atw Supra i'd be pretty damn impressed When you say fuel set-up, i was going to go for walbro pump, larger injectors, Pressure regulator and an E-manage Ultimate or maybe an AEM if i'm feeling flush at the time. That shouldn't cost too much..? P.S i love the quotes you have in your sig... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 will it not be cheaper in the long run to just go NA - TT and still get a decent power lever when its BPU'd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Hey, thanks for your advice, if you believe i should be running a higher ratio then i can use the standard 1.3mm TT h/g for around 9.2-1. Or is this still going to negatively affect the Squish of the chambers? Yea like i said i don't really have a specific HP goal in mind i'm sure if i sat in 500atw Supra i'd be pretty damn impressed When you say fuel set-up, i was going to go for walbro pump, larger injectors, Pressure regulator and an E-manage Ultimate or maybe an AEM if i'm feeling flush at the time. That shouldn't cost too much..? P.S i love the quotes you have in your sig... New Injectors, 2x Walboro pumps (or one Bosch, which would be my choice), plugs, wiring, fuel rail, mapping etc. It'll soon add up I reckon £1k before mapping, to support 650hp at the fly. For similar costs overall, you could look into having an LPG system installed and mapped, which will also halve your fuel costs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 will it not be cheaper in the long run to just go NA - TT and still get a decent power lever when its BPU'd? Possibly yes, but i can do all the work on the car myself, like gearbox, fuel set-up, head-gasket and the turbos because i used to work on touring cars when i was younger and I've built a few GTR's for my Dad But my one little pet hate is wiring and looms so i'd probably have to pay for labor for the wiring and loom swap (get it towed to a garage i can trust etc) Plus when the engines in i'll still end up going single anyway so may aswell do it with this engine, the distributor is just bothering me being in the way lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 New Injectors, 2x Walboro pumps (or one Bosch, which would be my choice), plugs, wiring, fuel rail, mapping etc. It'll soon add up I reckon £1k before mapping, to support 650hp at the fly. For similar costs overall, you could look into having an LPG system installed and mapped, which will also halve your fuel costs You say 2x pumps is that one in-tank and one in-line or what kind of set-up is used normally? I've seen guys with a couple of filters and pumps in the boot that look pretty cool. Haha no LPG thanks just shell 99 octane for me, i won't be driving it everyday so running costs aren't a problem...work from home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 You say 2x pumps is that one in-tank and one in-line or what kind of set-up is used normally? I've seen guys with a couple of filters and pumps in the boot that look pretty cool. Haha no LPG thanks just shell 99 octane for me, i won't be driving it everyday so running costs aren't a problem...work from home 2 x in tank walboro or 1 x in tank Bosch 044. The Bosch seems to be the prefered method now, as twin pump setups can be problematic apparently. You could go fo an external pump in an anti surge tank, but it's completely unnecessary for road use. (does make your car sound like a Jet on the inside though ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 (does make your car sound like a Jet on the inside though ) Awesome, Where do i sign? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 Does anyone know about the 6 speed box? Will it be a straight swap for my W58 or will i need the prop/other parts as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Does anyone know about the 6 speed box? Will it be a straight swap for my W58 or will i need the prop/other parts as well? There's some info here: http://www.mkivforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5065 There's a sticky on the forum (which I couldn't find) about the swap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 17, 2010 Author Share Posted November 17, 2010 Thanks mate, don't suppose you know if i'll need the tunnel like the auto box does? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Not really a specific number but i'd like to get around 600hp atw I've seen the chaps over the pond have made 800hp atw with stockish NA longblocks so i thought i'd give it a go because i found a nice clean shell. If 600whp is your aim you'd be much better to start with a 2JZ-GTE engine. As already said, fitting a thicker head gasket is a very crude way to reduce the CR and will effect the squish pad. See post 8 HERE for a good explanation of what the squish pad is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 tt pistons is the way mate , direct fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Thanks mate, don't suppose you know if i'll need the tunnel like the auto box does? No, the tunnel is the same on all manuals I'm not sure if the clutch cylinder is the same though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Im with Nic, for the amount of cash and heartache involved why dont you just get a 6 speed TT? Or a single converted car? Dont discount the auto, its a great box and drive a 6 speed box first, sure its strong but its, erm, industrial in its action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) Fwiw, I was going to NA-T mine but decided to spend a little more and buy a decent car with a VVTI GTE Tiptronic and save the hassle and concentrate on the truck. Won't need any more power, that's for sure. These engines haul @ss and all for the price of a decent set of brakes! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ARISTO-SUPRA-TWIN-TURBO-ENGINE-VVTI-2JZ-GTE-/290497335929?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a2fd9279 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ARISTO-SUPRA-2JZ-GTE-VVTI-TWIN-TURBO-ENGINE-/250725743271?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a606b3aa7 Looms and ECU etc. might be an issue unless you're able to map an aftermarket ECU but I'm sure it's been figured out by now. This is very good value if you can get it here cheaply enough. Complete with spec's in listing. Probably talking £400+ shipping through BAX Global etc. but Canada can cost a fortune for small items. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-2JZGTE-VVT-i-Twin-Turbo-3-0L-Engine-1997-2002-2JZ-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588b02921aQQitemZ380289323546QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Photos might be useful either way. GTE as well for £1500 minus ancillaries again. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ARISTO-SUPRA-2JZ-GTE-3-0-TWIN-TURBO-ENGINE-93-97-/370430666163?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563f6365b3 I'll try to remove the links when they expire. Edited November 18, 2010 by Morpheus (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Ok, so I've changed my mind like 100 times already today on what to do with the car :S I know i don't want to sell it because the shell is in good condition and to find a TT like this shell would be probably 10k so that's out. Next idea is the one i'm sort of leaning towards which is Nic's plan of dropping in a GTE (thanks for that link btw very helpful) I sort of thought about putting pistons in but then i still have the problem of having the dizzy in the way if i get bored and want to go mental with the turbo size. If i bought something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-2JZGTE-Engine-complete-ancillaries-twin-turbo-/250693981717?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a5e869615#ht_6748wt_1026 Low mileage and c/w loom and ECU etc. What else would be needed for the swap assuming i already have a 6 speed? thanks for your help so far guys btw, very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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