MOT failure. A few questions

[The-Plethora]

Took the car in on friday for the MOT, it failed on a few things a couple which I reckon it might be easier for the garage to sort and most things I plan to do myself, there were a couple of things I don't agree with as well. Initially it seemed quite bad but looking at it now it's not so bad. Could just use some advice really on how best to sort it.

 

Windscreen has a sticker or other obstruction encroaching into the swept area by more than 40mm outside zone A [8.3.1.e]

Fair enough, I do have a Do-Luck screen header and I will remove it and get on put back on after. Zone A is a bit vague. Is it just if the wipers touch it then it's a fail?

 

Windscreen washer provides insufficiant washer liquid [8.2.3]

Don't agree with this one. I had just bought new wipers with integrated washer jets. I had not used them for a while so am convinced they pressed for a second and nothing came out. Will show them this when I go back down there.

 

Horn not working [1.6.2.a]

I have sorted this now by getting an entire new steering column to go with my new stock wheel. Parp parp! .

 

Nearside steering rack gaiter split [2.2.D.2d]

Been told it's a really cheap bit but a pain in the arse to fit. I will likely let the garage handle this if it's best done on a ramp, would be a pain with this weather and doing it after work in the dark now the late nights have come in.

 

Nearside / Offside tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm [4.1.E.1]

Didn't think they were too bad but fair enough I will get new ones fitted this week.

 

All small things so far, this is the one that had me most worried...

 

Nearside / Offside front upper coil sprint mount corroded and seriously weakened [2.4.c.3c]

Now that sounds expensive to me and I had visions of cold november evenings with sprint compressors trying to drop the suspension to replace the mounts. I took it to Keron's this weekend to pick up some bits and he was good enough to have a quick look.

Apparently there is nothing wrong with it at all other than the powdercoated surface (aftermarket mounts) had lifted. The parts themselves are in good condition. I am thinking of jacking it up, taking the wheel off and simply removing the powdercoating. They probably saw the lifted coating and thought it was structual. I got hold of 2 stock mounts just in case. Apparently a common thing on aftermarket mounts, just hope I can get it off maybe with a flat head screwdriver.

 

Offside front brake binding [3.7.A.2a]

Offside front brake application uneven [3.7.A.2c

Front breaks imbalanced [3.7.A.2d]

All apply to one caliper. I checked all brakes over not long ago and did all pads but there does seem to be minor wear on the disc. I haven't noticed pulling to one side or anything. Providing I don't need a caliper refurb kit can I just grease the slider?

 

 

MINOR STUFF

Got 2 Minors they were...

Handbrake release button difficult to press / cover in way

Car has a nasty aftermarket handbrake cover and the original the rubber had been cut away to fit this on. Got a replacement handbrake assembly to fit in its place if I can work out how to remove the plastic surrounding it. It put up a bit of a fight and then it got dark. Round 2 tonight!

 

Leaking coolant

Not worried about this. I topped it up before it went in and so with it being warmed up it probably got rid of any exscess.

 

 

If anyone has any advice or pointers it's always appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[jackso11]

Seems a bit self explanitory mate....

 

Peel off the sticker,

Show them your washer jets work,

New tyres,

 

Garage to look at the rest.

 

I have a steering rack gator, brand new in the bag with the toyota part number on. PM me if you want it.

[The-Plethora]

Yeah it's mainly the caliper and the steering rack gaitor but I don't know how involved that is to change.

 

For anyone MOT minded on my emissions test it says "No engine no found, tested as 2.GAS". I know the NA was not listed and so full decat was no problem but I thought this would pick it up. Anyone know how stringent "2 Gas" testing is?

I want to get decatted shortly after, I am hoping I can pass future MOTs with just the back cat to change.

[The Raven]

Id say thats game over.

 

I will give you £500 for it.

[jackso11]

I think the 'not listed' for emissions is a myth. it just goes down as a supra.

[David Reid]

You may need to fit a one way valve to the washers to stop them draining back, I dont think it is acceptable to have to hold the switch for 3s +.

[Supra-Brett]

I think the 'not listed' for emissions is a myth. it just goes down as a supra.

 

Its not a myth. N/A supe emmisions arnt on DVLA database (UK spec is, but they shouldnt test an N/A supe based on UK turbo spec emmissions), so they use a default level for emmissions which is MEGA high, therefore MEGA unlikley you will fail.

[The-Plethora]

Hmm not much you can do on your own in the rain with a crappy lamp but I wanted to check out these suspension caps (or whatever they are called)

 

I am starting to think not all is well. I am totally skint at the moment but if this genuinely needs sorting I will talk to my inflexible friend.

 

The lifting powdercoating (if thats what it is) looks pretty thick to me...

 

Bit removed...

 

The 2 bits I removed appear worryingly thick, on the other hand they seem to have an sandy underside which I would presume is powdercoating.

 

 

I have some stock caps that I got on the weekend but I am worried if I do try to change all this then the stock caps wont fit the aftermarket suspension

 

 

What do you lot think? it seems to be powdercoating as expected but it seems pretty thick to me. Any idea if the stock ones will fit if I go down that route? I guess this would be a hugely expensive job?

 

 

The suspension is TEIN Super Street Damper if I recall, are these caps available seperately? Cheers for the help.

[scotty71]

does that mean u bought a sh!ter ?

[jackso11]

Its not a myth. N/A supe emmisions arnt on DVLA database (UK spec is, but they shouldnt test an N/A supe based on UK turbo spec emmissions), so they use a default level for emmissions which is MEGA high, therefore MEGA unlikley you will fail.

 

can MOT testers use this for import TT supras? As it is not the same due to various differences in the engine including different o2 sensors and a few other sensors here and there....which would make the decat not a problem...

[Graham S]

Yeah it's mainly the caliper and the steering rack gaitor but I don't know how involved that is to change.

 

For anyone MOT minded on my emissions test it says "No engine no found, tested as 2.GAS". I know the NA was not listed and so full decat was no problem but I thought this would pick it up. Anyone know how stringent "2 Gas" testing is?

I want to get decatted shortly after, I am hoping I can pass future MOTs with just the back cat to change.

 

I think the 'not listed' for emissions is a myth. it just goes down as a supra.

 

It will be listed as a supra, which is on the database, but then it asks for an engine code... 2JZ-GTE is listed, where-as the GE isn't, so then it does go onto basically what you are calling the 2-gas test, which is a default test. Which is CO% >3.500 and HC 1200. If the car is doing more than that on idle your in trouble! Wouldn't worry about cats it'll fly through, promise!

[Graham S]

can MOT testers use this for import TT supras? As it is not the same due to various differences in the engine including different o2 sensors and a few other sensors here and there....which would make the decat not a problem...

 

In theory no... the UK and J spec both still have the 2JZ-GTE engine so falls into the same category.

 

UNLESS... you know any nice testers!

 

As for the top mount, looking at the picture, I can't make out the thickness to well but it does look like a big chunk has come off. I'd change it personally...

Steering rack gaitor is dead easy.. Done them on the drive no problem. Same as removing the top mount, whip the unit out and its a quick swap. Although I think the tein uses a smaller spring so may not fit a stock top mount. Could be wrong though, hopefully, for your sake!

[The-Plethora]

I don't have much in the way of spring compressors and such to do the job really, I would rather take it to someone who has the bits they need and a lit garage rather than my dark driveway

 

If they are too damaged where can I get these top mounts from? seems odd they didnt mention anything about the rear suspension.

[The-Plethora]

I don't like to self bump topics but I am even more confused now, I took a picture of the mounts this morning from the top when it was lighter and the mounts seem to be HKS ones not TEIN? confusing.

 

At least I know one other type will fit this but makes me wonder what happened to the original mounts it was designed for. A search of ebay seems to show I cant get these mounts seperately and to replace it seems to involve getting an entire new settup totalling £880 ish before fitting!

Has anyone got a cheaper alternative? I think possibly I could bodge it through the MOT as it is but I would rather get it sorted properly.

 

[Dnk]

You could get them made by a machine shop, my brother runs a motorsport based engineering company and a classic BMW touring car team.

 

Their based in Earlswood in the West Mids, if you want contact details let me know

[The-Plethora]

Might well take you up on that DNK if it might be his sort of thing.

 

I have found some mounts from a place called camskill, I have heard of them before but no experience of it.

I would rather get this all sorted sooner rather than later and pick the bits up but they are in Cumbria it seems and I am not even sure what type of suspension mount I have...pillowball?

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b644s1752p12988&tbv=TEIN_PILLOW_BALL_UPPER_MOUNTS_-_STRUT_TOP_MOUNTS_Pillowball_Topmounts_-_Front_-_Performance_Suspension_Kits_-_TOYOTA_-_SUPRA_-_93_to_01

[Dnk]

Just throwing up options for you but they make extremely high quality parts for F1, WRC etc so wouldn't be a problem making what you need, the problem would be trying to keep it cost effective as your looking at virtually 1 offs.

 

If you can get the parts off the dampers then any good engineering company should be able to make them for you out of an appropriate grade of aluminium alloy.