Dnk Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Its not worth doing on an overhead cam engine due to the fact that the cam journals will be out of line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 When the head warps bin it, you will not get it true again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 (edited) This whole statement "About 3 months ago my radiator blew in my 95 j-spec TT auto. Never got to the bottom of why but replaced with a new alloy one and relocated into a dedicated oil cooler. Never had any more heat problems before or after - but when it blew the engine temp was off the scale for about 5-10mins" Beggar's belief! you had a SERIOUS overheat, and all you did was chuck a new rad at it and fitted an oil cooler, and continue driving, without a thorough investigation? The very fact that it overheated in the first place, indicates a problem, and likely head gasket failure, presuming that you check the fluid levels frequently? Sorry if my comment is not commiserative enough, but you really need to develop a more sympathetic attitude to your engine if you expect to benefit form its performance. From the sounds of it you are looking at a full rebuild, as you have probably been suffering from water in the oil for the last three months of driving, and so will have undoubtedly caused bearing damage. Edited November 27, 2010 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 I would deffinatly get the head checked and just fit an new H/G then do a complete engine flush both water and oil then refill with brand new liquids. Run until its normal running temp and check both water and oil, but first make sure the top hose isnt about to burst before you remove the rad cap. If your mechanicly minded then do it yourself or get ripped off by garage fee's that still dont fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Has no one realised that if there was enough water in the cylinder to have to have to drain out and it was still spitting out when turning over then the engine would have hydrauliced and prob thrown a rod if it did not do that cylinder pressure would have blown the rad apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 I would deffinatly get the head checked and just fit an new H/G then do a complete engine flush both water and oil then refill with brand new liquids. Run until its normal running temp and check both water and oil, but first make sure the top hose isnt about to burst before you remove the rad cap. If your mechanicly minded then do it yourself or get ripped off by garage fee's that still dont fix the problem. The guys mate is the mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransitVanMan Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Has no one realised that if there was enough water in the cylinder to have to have to drain out and it was still spitting out when turning over then the engine would have hydrauliced and prob thrown a rod if it did not do that cylinder pressure would have blown the rad apart.i see what you mean but this is what we couldnt understand, the crack in the h/g is so slight it couldnt get the volume of water back through - the car has run fine since the overheating incident - since the old rad had cracked and was replaced with the ally one no water went in the oil no oil in the water and its ran for months with no leaks - then this hapened:( the cyl was full of water when i took the plug out it flooded out - i cant believe that it had been running like that without hydraulicing the engine - the chances of it parking up on the exhaust stroke every time seem very unlikely and as said the h/g crack was so slight i was expecting damage in the head or block but we cant see any - before we investigated it the car drove spot on other than the vibrations on idle:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransitVanMan Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 The guys mate is the mechanic.thats me - i'm not a mechanic, i'm a maintenance engineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Cylinder head cracks can be invisible to the eye. You really need to get the head dye tested, but checked for bring true first. The results of a dye test will be conclusive and save you the cost of fluids, gasket, rebuild costs just to find water in the cylinder again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 As Phil says if a very light facing is all the head needs then get it properly crack tested before you go any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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