Dnk Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Not sure if this is any use to anyone but ive just had this email from Nengun Performance. RAYS WHEELS UP TO 44% OFF! BIGGEST RAYS SALE EVER - LIMITED TO OCTOBER 2010 ONLY Nengun Performance is proud to announce our biggest Rays Wheels sale ever, only for October 2010. Volk Racing 30% to 44% off retail * Gram Lights all 35% off retail Nismo wheels all 30% off retail * Sale excludes TE37V, TE37SL & Eco Drive Wheels Fedex, EMS and DHL shipping is available for all Rays Wheels. No matter where you are, we can ship sets of wheels fully insured, to your door at the lowest prices we've ever had available. Act Fast! Place an order to secure your set of genuine Rays Wheels direct from Nengun Performance and Rays Wheels Japan. We don't expect to see these prices again for a long time! 57 Ultimate SC Spec - GRAM LIGHTS - 35% OFF The Gram Lights 57 Ultimate SC features one of the most unique finishes of wheels released in 2010 with the eye catching blue rim color stealing the limelight. The aggressive design and color has quickly made this one of the most popular wheels in Japan. Colors: Black Chrome with Black or Blue Rim Sizes: 15" to 19" JPY 23,027 to 36,572 Yen each AUD $293 to $466 each USD $279 to $443 each TE37 - VOLK RACING - 30% OFF The classic TE37 design never ceases to impress with aggressive presence on vehicles from AE86 to the latest 370Z. Extremely high quality and rigid forged 1 piece wheel manufactured to the highest of standards by Rays Japan. Colors: Bronze, White and Option Color Sizes: 13" to 19" JPY 27,881 to 68,967 Yen each AUD $355 to $879 each USD $338 to $836 each VR.G2 - VOLK RACING - 30% OFF The VR.G2 forged wheel is one of the latest Rays Wheels, designed for a high performance and classy look on the street. Rays takes Aluminium 6010 and manufactured the wheel using original forging techniques for uniform strength and rigidity. Colors: Formula Silver and Flat Black Sizes: 19" and 20" only JPY 61,630 to 84,375 Yen each AUD $785 to $1,075 each USD $747 to $1,023 each 57D - GRAM LIGHTS - 35% OFF The Gram Lights 57D features a classic design with a twist of exciting luminous color. Available in Ceramic White, Luminous Orange, Yellow and Pink, the 57D will ensure you are noticed. Colors: Ceramic White, Luminous Orange, Luminous Yellow, Luminous Pink Sizes: 15" to 18" JPY 18,286 to 29,799 Yen each AUD $233 to $379 each USD $221 to $361 each RE30 - VOLK RACING - 30% OFF The Rays RE30 forged 1 piece wheel is one of the lowest and most durable wheels available. Whether on the street or in extreme racing conditions the RE30 is the choice for many tuners throughout the world. Colors: Formula Silver, Bronze and Chrome Silver Sizes: 15" to 19" JPY 33,750 to 61,630 Yen each AUD $430 to $785 each USD $409 to $747 each TRINITI-V - VOLK RACING - 30% OFF The Rays TRINIT-V wheel is one of the most beautiful wheels and aggressive street focussed wheels to be released in 2010. The Mold Form Forged 1 piece construction keeps the weight of the 20" wheel down for high performance with luxury image. Colors: Matte Black and Dark Gunmetal Sizes: 20" only JPY 65,299 to 74,470 Yen each AUD $832 to $949 each USD $792 to $903 each LM GT4 - NISMO - 30% OFF The Nismo LM GT4 is a variation of the TE37 and a popular classic among Nissan enthusiasts the world over. The 1 piece monoblock forged construction provides extremely high rigidity and durability with an aggressive stance. Colors: White, Bronze and Chrome Silver Sizes: 17" to 19" only JPY 49,158 to 63,098 Yen each AUD $626 to $804 each USD $596 to $765 each R57GT - GRAM LIGHTS - 35% OFF The modern Gram Lights R57GT design has been combined with Rays superior 1 piece forged monoblock construction. Available only in 20inch the R57GT suits the Toyota Supra, Lexus IS/GS and Nissan Skyline, 350Z and 370Z. Colors: Formula Silver Sizes: 20" only JPY 89,397 to 92,784 Yen each AUD $1,139 to $1,182 each USD $1,084 to $1,125 each Many more wheels and further details are available under Rays Wheels on the website. Prices quoted in AUD and USD are based on the current exchange rate and can fluctuate on a daily basis. Please Contact Us if you have any questions or special requests, we are always happy to help. ing a Rays wheel sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I know the Rays LM4 GT rims are done for Nissans with the correct counterbore hole size, but if you order them for a Supra do they come with the correct counterbore size or do they expect you to use adaptor rings? I was very disappointed to see a MKIV the other month on magnesium Rays rims, but with plastic hub adaptors. They may have been adapted from another application though. Given the price I'd expect them to be the right fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) Based on my wheels Chris, the measurements I had control over was PCD and Offset The counterbore is not correct, and I completly agree with you on the price of these wheels , everything should fit; I was and am still am very annoyed over it On a side note where can I get the counterbore adapter rings and how do I know what fits? I actually got Hub Rings with my wheels from Rays On a side note just reading up here: The hub rings sole responsibility is to take up the space between the center bore of the wheel and the hub of the car. For example: the center bore of all 4x100mm and 5x100mm wheels is 64mm. All wheels are classified as being either "Hub Centric", or "Lug Centric." The term Centric refers to the way a wheel is centered. In other words a hub centric wheel centers on the hub of the car, if you put the wheel on the car without lug nuts the wheel would be perfectly centered. On a lug centric wheel, the wheels are centered by the lugs as they are tightened down. Manufacturers build wheels lug centric to allow the wheel to fit a wider selection of vehicles. Are all after market wheels "Hub Centric" requiring a Hub Centric Ring then? Edited October 6, 2010 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 If you have spent a lot on rims, which I presume you have, then I'd get a machine shop to turn up some rings that are a press fit in the rims, made from alloy. Loctite them in with Loctite bearing fit. The ID of the rings needs to be a snug, but not tight, fit on the nose of the car's hubs. ALL the vertical shock loadings of hitting potholes and bumps needs to be taken via the counterbore and hub nose, NOT the wheel studs, which should be used solely in tension, NOT in shear. Wheel wobble and vibration and hugely overloaded wheel studs can occur if the wheel is just held by the studs. Plastic rings don't cut it at all. Ebay ones often fit where they touch. Get as much surface area of the ring OD within the wheel as possible. In other words make them as deep as the machined bore of the wheel allows. No matter the price, IMO a wheel with a generic counterbore size that needs adaptor rings to fit is a bad wheel. But you can remedy this to a very large extent with properly machined parts, at a further cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) Thanks Chris, to add another variable to the Calculation, NeweraParts also F**ked up the Offset even though the car was with them in Japan. So was going to get Project Kics Hub Centric Rings, but how would I measure what ring Fits? http://www.nengun.com/kics/hub-centric-ring Spacers Project Kics Wide Tread Wheel Spacers Type:10mm / 5 X 114.3mm (FRONT) Project Kics Wide Tread Wheel Spacers Type:25mm / 5 X 114.3mm (REAR) Wheels Volk Racing GT-C Face 2 Wheels Size:5X114.3 19X10.5J ET+37 (REAR) Volk Racing GT-C Face 2 Wheels Size:5X114.3 19X9.5J ET+24 (FRONT) Edited October 6, 2010 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 The nose of the hub diameter will be well documented, a search should find it, or I have some rear hubs off a car here I can measure later for you. You will have to measure the ID of the wheel counterbore yourself. Personally I'd get a machine shop to permanently fit some adaptors to the rims, Loctited and held with countersunk Allen bolts as well. If the rims sizes above are what you are running (wide arched car with stock suspension arms?) it'll need all the help it can get as the hub loadings will be fearsome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) Thanks Chris, just here in Ireland I found it hard to even get a Aluminium Welder for my oil cooler(Gave up in the end and just got a new mocal unit); not a chance getting any machine shops over here and if you could they would charge me $$$$ Think I found the Hubcentric Rings, nothing is available for the Front 10mm they only do 15mm and above So for the rear, Supra standard Bore is 60mm and the Spacer is 25mm Project Kics Hub Centric Ring Diameter: 60mm - Thickness: 25mm If I got the correct offset would this reduce the Load? or how can I address the issue considering she is Wide arch and Standard Suspension arms Edited October 6, 2010 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 The nose on the hub is as far as im aware 60.1 mm, front and rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I want a set of LM-GT4s badly! Thanks for pointing this out! (Chris with the bore, not the original post - I got the email too ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I want a set of LM-GT4s badly! Thanks for pointing this out! (Chris with the bore, not the original post - I got the email too ) Glad i bothered to post it up :d I made my own spigot rings out of high grade aluminium alloy that are a tight fit on the hubs and in my wheels. I've been running 19 x 10 fronts and 19 x 11.5 rears for over 4 years and have no wheel stud problems or wheel bearing problems, now on 131,000 miles on the original bearings:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.