Won’t run after Head Gasket replacement

[SimonR]

Just replaced the head gasket and now the engine starts, idles erratically for 2-3 seconds and then dies. HG was replaced due to overheat when a radiator hose came adrift.

 

I’m guessing that this is a fuel flow or pressure problem, but I would welcome any ideas.

 

Here’s what I’ve checked:

 

• Idle control check valve is the right way round.
  
• Sensors (MAP, Greddy MAP, air temp, coolant temp, O2, cam angle) appear to be connected OK .
  
• Vacuum hoses appear OK (inc to the FPR).
  
• Battery is fully charged (according the Halfords charger).
  
• With ignition at “1”, I get fuel from the Fuel Return line (out from the FPR) with the Fp/B+ override, but not without.
  
• ECU says that everything is hunky-dory (constant flashing).
  
• Coolant, engine oil and tranny oil at correct levels, with no visible leaks.
  
• All coil packs connected.
  
• When the HG was replaced, no damage to block or head was visible.
  

 

I’m not hearing a priming sound from the Fuel Pump (Walbro) on the ignition key, but if the fuel ECU were knacked, the Fp/B+ override should overcome that, I believe. There were no problems of this nature before the HG blew. I replaced the radiator, cam belt and rad hoses when replacing the HG.

 

It’s a 1.5JZ-GTE with a GT-3040 and 800cc Sards. I’ve had it apart many times and I’m pretty sure that everything is back where it should be

 

Any ideas? If it is a fuelling problem, any suggestions for the next steps?

Edited September 28, 2010 by SimonR (see edit history)

[Guest ugp]

Sounds very much like lack of fuel to me. If you pull the fuel feed off, do you get a supply whilst cranking? You mention with the ignition at "1", assuming this is the run position and not crank?

 

What do the plugs look like, are they wet? Assuming the firing orders right? Not sure if the 1jz has a dizzy with plug leads, if so are these on the right terminals? (ignore this, just re read your bit about coil packs)

 

Just replaced the head gasket and now the engine starts, idles erratically for 2-3 seconds and then dies. HG was replaced due to overheat when a radiator hose came adrift.

 

I’m guessing that this is a fuel flow or pressure problem, but I would welcome any ideas.

 

Here’s what I’ve checked:

 

• Idle control check valve is the right way round.
  
• Sensors (MAP, Greddy MAP, air temp, coolant temp, O2, cam angle) appear to be connected OK .
  
• Vacuum hoses appear OK (inc to the FPR).
  
• Battery is fully charged (according the Halfords charger).
  
• With ignition at “1”, I get fuel from the Fuel Return line (out from the FPR) with the Fp/B+ override, but not without.
  
• ECU says that everything is hunky-dory (constant flashing).
  
• Coolant, engine oil and tranny oil at correct levels, with no visible leaks.
  
• All coil packs connected.
  
• When the HG was replaced, no damage to block or head was visible.
  

 

I’m not hearing a priming sound from the Fuel Pump (Walbro) on the ignition key, but if the fuel ECU were knacked, the Fp/B+ override should overcome that, I believe. There were no problems of this nature before the HG blew. I replaced the radiator, cam belt and rad hoses when replacing the HG.

 

It’s a 1.5JZ-GTE with a GT-3040 and 800cc Sards. I’ve had it apart many times and I’m pretty sure that everything is back where it should be

 

Any ideas? If it is a fuelling problem, any suggestions for the next steps?

[SimonR]

Sounds very much like lack of fuel to me. If you pull the fuel feed off, do you get a supply whilst cranking? You mention with the ignition at "1", assuming this is the run position and not crank?

Fuel flows while cranking. Half a litre in a couple of seconds. This was without the Fp/+B override.

Yes, when I said “1” I mean ignition on but not cranking, as in positions 0, 1 and 2.

 

 

What do the plugs look like, are they wet? Assuming the firing orders right? Not sure if the 1jz has a dizzy with plug leads, if so are these on the right terminals? (ignore this, just re read your bit about coil packs)

Yes, they are wet with fuel and black. I inspected them when the head was off and they were light brown with no deposits so it seems that I’m now getting fuel into the cylinders that isn’t being burned – which suggests to me that fuel is still squirting as the engine stalls.

 

Incidentally, the boost gauge shows -12 when the engine does idle for a few seconds. This suggests a vacuum leak to me but I can't find any.

Edited September 29, 2010 by SimonR (see edit history)

[Swampy442]

 

• With ignition at “1”, I get fuel from the Fuel Return line (out from the FPR) with the Fp/B+ override, but not without.
   
  

 

That sounds to me like the fuel pump ECU, have you tried it with the jumper in place?

[SimonR]

That sounds to me like the fuel pump ECU, have you tried it with the jumper in place?

Yes, that was what I meant by the "Fp/+B override". Edited September 29, 2010 by SimonR (see edit history)

[SimonR]

Sorted. My own fault.

 

Last year, the wires to the rear Cam Angle Sensor broke. Being lazy, I reattached them with connectors rather than a proper fix. My bodge came undone during the re-assembly after the HG replacement but I re-attached the wires the wrong way round! My fault for being lazy. In my defence, the ECU didn’t think there was anything wrong with it either.

 

Anyway, this turned out to be an ignition problem rather than fuel or air. Very misleading. Thanks for the replies – appreciated.