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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Team Falken UK 650hp V35 Skyline (G35)


Polo

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LOL! i always wonder just how stretched tyres like that stay on the rims during competition drifting?

 

Lol, coz they have air in them :p thats a 265 35 on 12j rear and 225 35 9.5j front. It depends on the rim design, most are ok down to 18psi with that much stretch, on a bumpy track at low pressure (below 20psi) they can pop off if you hit a bump just right :blink: Iv only ever had one tyre come off the rim and that was coz it had a nail in it.

The stretch in the tyre actully helps with handling, as the tyre side wall is already "loaded" it reduces tyre roll :)

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ok time for an update, not a very big one as iv been so busy with work etc.

 

Some parts hve been ariving, inlet manifold with 80mm throttle but damaged in the fecking post!!:( New toyota bellhousing and some hockeypucks to make engine mounts from :D oh and a manual pedal box.

 

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Back to the car, engine was sitting in but not happy with where its was and obv there is a hell of alot of junk that still needed stripping out

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so out came tons of un-needed stuff

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engine back out and more stripping and cutting to get the engine back in the car more

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Then started the task of getting the dash, heater box and wire loom out, that lot weighs a ton!!

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Then i had all the windows taken out ready for the cage

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry iv not updated this, iv been away and so has the car having the cage done. Not alot other than the cage, nothing interesting really, just stripping sound proofing!!!

 

Cars back from having cage fitted by Nickson Motorsport!

 

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did anybody els notice the rear tyres on the s14 wer on backwards :p

 

We run them backwards for a reason ;) you will notice most drift cars using directional tyres run them in reverse :)

 

Not for the same reason the Katerham cup run them backwards on the front. lol

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Cool project - really like the look of these kitted up :thumbs:

 

We run them backwards for a reason ;) you will notice most drift cars using directional tyres run them in reverse :)

 

Not for the same reason the Katerham cup run them backwards on the front. lol

 

What reason do you run them backwards? I put a set on backwards on my S13 by mistake a few years back on a spare set of rims for drifting - just had cheap crap ditchfinder tyres on, seemed to really chew them up like that. Was an airfield type surface (Crail up here).

 

Back then there wasn't a UK championship when I had my S13 and also when I drifted my JZA70 so I was just arsing about.

 

Would really like to get into drifting properly now but I've got no suitable car at the moment so contemplating using a Supra TT manual. Any opinions on using a MKIV Supra?

 

For example, I drifted a friends S14a and found it was a much more natural drift car than my S13 so came to the conclusion that was the one to use back then - I'm still tempted to go that way but now most of the S14/a's seem to be riddled with rust and I can't be arsed with that along with the less reliable nature (compared with 2JZ's) of the SR20DET's. There's also power and torque vs. weight to consider - the Supra being heavier but with the higher output engine with lots of scope for more power whilst maintaining reliability.

 

Cost wise a Supra TT manual is more to buy in the 1st place vs. an S14a by a good chunk but I'd say worth it to get a rust free shell with a reliable high output base setup. Re-shelling, should the worst happen, isn't too big an issue with NA's available from around £2k now.

 

What's the best route into drifting now assuming I have a car to start with? BDC license day at Knockhill then I can compete if I can obtain a license?

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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Cool project - really like the look of these kitted up :thumbs:

 

 

 

What reason do you run them backwards? I put a set on backwards on my S13 by mistake a few years back on a spare set of rims for drifting - just had cheap crap ditchfinder tyres on, seemed to really chew them up like that. Was an airfield type surface (Crail up here).

 

Back then there wasn't a UK championship when I had my S13 and also when I drifted my JZA70 so I was just arsing about.

 

Would really like to get into drifting properly now but I've got no suitable car at the moment so contemplating using a Supra TT manual. Any opinions on using a MKIV Supra?

 

For example, I drifted a friends S14a and found it was a much more natural drift car than my S13 so came to the conclusion that was the one to use back then - I'm still tempted to go that way but now most of the S14/a's seem to be riddled with rust and I can't be arsed with that along with the less reliable nature (compared with 2JZ's) of the SR20DET's. There's also power and torque vs. weight to consider - the Supra being heavier but with the higher output engine with lots of scope for more power whilst maintaining reliability.

 

Cost wise a Supra TT manual is more to buy in the 1st place vs. an S14a by a good chunk but I'd say worth it to get a rust free shell with a reliable high output base setup. Re-shelling, should the worst happen, isn't too big an issue with NA's available from around £2k now.

 

What's the best route into drifting now assuming I have a car to start with? BDC license day at Knockhill then I can compete if I can obtain a license?

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

 

Hi,

 

It because of the way the tyre is constructed, most directional tyres tend to delaminate when drifting. If you run them the "correct" way if they delaminate they peel from the centre out. Where as if you run them the "rong" way they dont and it reduces delamination drematicly!

 

The best way to get into it is get any car thats rear wheel drive that your not worried about damaging, a bmw E36 is a good base as cheap and they drift well. Dont use your supra if your worried about the paint work. There are a few drift supras about but to get them up to a good competition standard alot of work is needed, infact the two high end supras i know of both have nissan steering racks in.

 

S13 and s14 are your best bet thogh, they both drift just aswell, your mates must have just had better setup than your s13. S13 with out rust is hard to find these days unless you get an import, you get and extra bonus then as they come with the sr20det, which is a much better engine than the UKs13, but youl pay the price for one of these. You can pick up a half decent s14 with basic mods for £1.5k these days. The sr20det is and extreamly reliable engine, just as much as the JZ's, people prefer the JZ's due to the torque and high power on farly stock engines. Iv ran an sr for the last 6 years, 4 of them years over 400hp and the last year 500hp, out of a 2ltr thats prety impresive and was super reliable. A stock sr will cope with 400hp no problems, but you wont need any more than 300hp while your learning. Id get a good year of practice days under your belt befor you try to go for competition.

 

;)

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nice car polo. good luck mate, lookin forward to BDC next year (you are BDC again next year?)

 

Yes mate, and what ever else i can stretch to. In 2009 i managed to compete in 4 differant championships, not all rounds of every one but still, i competed 17 times that year, all over europe! This year iv had such a crap year with crash's, fuel pumps dying, starting my own business and braking my Scaphoid bone, i only managed 5-6 comps and one demo in Germany.

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Thanks Polo - I was taking this off topic with my ramblings so have copied your above post and moved my reply to a new thread here to get a seperate discussion going. Appreciate if you could share your knowledge and experience as it's something a number of our members could be interested in.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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Ok, time for an update, cast is off my arm now and feels loads better so its full steam ahead!!!

 

So got the car int he back of the workshop jacked up and sat level.

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Front wings off ready for seam welding

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Next was to get the right bellhousing on the box, get the box mounted to the motor and get the motor in the final posision! This took a good few maybe 4 hours to get right!!

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Why it took so long was due to having to take in to account clearance on clutch master, steering colomn, sump, subframe, inlet and exhast manifolds.

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Managed to get it quite far back, front pulley is flush with the front of the front wheels and the ARB (note back on the 1st few pages this is where the vq35 sat too. And that 3 cylinders shorter)

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The bigest prob was the sump, this is how its going to sit, so im having to prety much make a new sump and modifie the pick up.

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Got some steel bits from MrSteveo to make the mounts

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So drilled a hole in the hoky pucks and got some washers to suite

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