Few bits need seeing to, help required!

[Kalel]

Ok fellas, few problems I've encountered with my supe which I'd love some advice/info to help me out and point me in the right direction.

 

 

- Problem one: (my most & major concern):

Black oil looking stuff all over the inside the exhaust.

Luckily only sign of smoke is on start up.

no smoke fumes, even when I floor it.

Petrol seems to be draining like hell, I'm quite confused!

 

/my opinion: carburator needs adjusting or cleaning\

(please point me in the right direction on guides etc to help, I've seen "carb cleener" which you supposedly mix with a full tank of petrol to clean out the carburator)

 

- problem two: (not so fussed over)

engine check flashes, code 42

my speedo goes abit wooptidoo at times so I'm assuming the "converter" is abit shit hence needs replacing. I haven't found any better ones than eBay cheepos (which look pretty identicle)

 

- problem three (hhmmm...)

gears are very stiff, particularly 3rd. You guys reckon gearbox needs oil?

 

- Problem four:

on take off and brake I can feel & hear a click almost as if something isn't sitting tightly??

Relayed to tightening of:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=7238&d=1080309644

??

Edited September 10, 2010 by Kalel (see edit history)

[2soops]

Are you sure you've got a carb on that, if so could be the problem!!!!

[Kalel]

Are you sure you've got a carb on that, if so could be the problem!!!!

 

Lol I'm just guessing mate, haven't a clue. I'm new to the 2jzgte engine scene

[scotty71]

Are you sure you've got a carb on that, if so could be the problem!!!!

 

lol that question is answered

 

Thor I think do a converter if I am not mistaken

 

Yes check the subframe bolts and tighten with tourque wrench as per you diagram / look at the rears too

 

5 or 6 speed?

 

As to the gearbox Im Auto so I dont know (thats why Auto's rule) Wont hurt giving it a change. Does it get easier as the car warms up? Third IMO may be knotchy as its the main pulling gear when you up the leptons

 

EDIT : Im sure the inside of the exhaust would just be a build up of carbon deposits

Edited September 10, 2010 by scotty71 (see edit history)

[Nic]

1. When was the Oxygen Sensor last renewed? A duff O2 sensor is the usual cause of poor fuel economy and rich smell of fuel.

 

Is the smoke on start up bluish? If so probably due to worn valve seals.

 

2. Probably due to speedo convertor as you say.

 

3. The 6spd Getrag gearbox is a bit clunky, try changing the gearbox oil.

 

4. Can you explain better?

[Kalel]

Thanks alot guys, much appreciated!!

 

As for how long I've had the car: 8days or so, I don't know much about the previous history.

 

As for the carburetor, I guess that means it's fuel injected.... So I'm very much out of my comfort zone!! What next, I have no idea...

Smoke- White (I think... my gf said "babes, there's black smoke coming out of your exhaust" when I checked... No smoke... I checked next day... White smoke!!

 

The "Thor" converter I can't find!!! Halp! eBay doesn't have it. I'm pretty confident I can change this myself if I have the part!

 

Torque wrench??? Can't a good old normal wrench do it? If not... Anyone near by withthis fancy tool I can borrow for 10 mins??

 

As for prob4: I can't explainin, just feels like somethings loose. When I brake or take off it's almost like pushing back and bobbing forward from what I believe is axis... (guess)

Edited September 10, 2010 by Kalel (see edit history)

[Nic]

1. White smoke when first starting is usually condensation (water vapour) in the exhaust burning off. Bluish smoke is oil burning.

 

4. Get the car on a ramp and get it checked over underneath, could be loose sub frame, worn suspension components, sticking brake caliper, etc.

[Terminator]

Not wishing to offend, but you probably should take your car to someone with experience of the MKIV and get them to check it over.

[Paul]

my gf said "babes, there's black smoke coming out of your exhaust"

 

Good 'ole Essex gal

[Kalel]

Not wishing to offend, but you probably should take your car to someone with experience of the MKIV and get them to check it over.

 

 

Not offended at all mate, I don't know of any supra mkiv specialists anywere near... Any ideas?

 

Plus not to sound like a prat bit I'd rather do it myself & learn as I go along. I want to be the hands on dude. I'm not looking to sell this car. Even if I win the lotto, this is staying with me.

[Kalel]

Good 'ole Essex gal

 

Lol, as I've upgraded my car.... I'm looking to upgrade my girlfriend too.

[Homer]

The others have covered 1, 2 and 4. For item 3, this will be a poor convertor. There is only one convertor I know of that does everything needed all in one, the THOR one. Never, ever buy from ebay for things like this as none I've seen on ther eoffer the PAS correction to stop the PAS over powering at higher speeds.

 

It's speed sensitive so if the corrected signal is not sent back to the ECU, the ECU will offer power steerign rates (for exmaple) at 50mph, when the car thinks it's going 50kmph, it doesn't sound a lot, but when you get to motorway speeds it's dangerous.

[Homer]

Plus not to sound like a prat bit I'd rather do it myself & learn as I go along. I want to be the hands on dude. I'm not looking to sell this car. Even if I win the lotto, this is staying with me.

 

Fully appreciate people having a go at things themselves, but if you're confusing carbs and fuel injection it would be a good idea to get a proffesional who knows these cars to check initial things over first. Baby steps and all! We've all been there

[Kalel]

The others have covered 1, 2 and 4. For item 3, this will be a poor convertor. There is only one convertor I know of that does everything needed all in one, the THOR one. Never, ever buy from ebay for things like this as none I've seen on ther eoffer the PAS correction to stop the PAS over powering at higher speeds.

 

It's speed sensitive so if the corrected signal is not sent back to the ECU, the ECU will offer power steerign rates (for exmaple) at 50mph, when the car thinks it's going 50kmph, it doesn't sound a lot, but when you get to motorway speeds it's dangerous.

 

Cheers for that mate, lovely bit of advice. Will definately sort out the Thor converter, just need to find one now! Thanks alot.

[Kalel]

Fully appreciate people having a go at things themselves, but if you're confusing carbs and fuel injection it would be a good idea to get a proffesional who knows these cars to check initial things over first. Baby steps and all! We've all been there

 

Yh agreed, but if it's minor things I can do myself I thought I'd give it a go. Anything major I'll leave to the experts.

 

E.g

gearbox oil change, I'll do myself.

converter, easy to do myself

tightening bolts from suspension mounting, possible to diy

[Homer]

As mentioned I'm all for DIY and really encourage it, but you need to know when to call in the experts

 

tightening bolts from suspension mounting, possible to diy

 

Not possible unless you can get under the car with the full weight on the wheels - i.e. 4 poster. You can't do this with the car jacked up as the weight of the subframe will be hanging from off chassis and thus the torque ratings for each bolt cannot be set correctly.

 

Similar to gear oil, car needs to be level and at the same time acessible for you to get to the drain and filler plugs. Not easy unless you can get the car on a 4 poster.

[Kalel]

So the subframe tightening I'll have sorted by experts, but the gearbox oil change possible:

 

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251284

[scotty71]

make sure you use a tourque wrench for the subframe bolts

 

They are located either end of the front roller behind the carbs

 

 

On a serious note you need to see if they are loose as per the diagram and tighten up to the tourque as in the diagram you posted 200 and 125n.m respectively

[Kalel]

make sure you use a tourque wrench for the subframe bolts

 

They are located either end of the front roller behind the carbs

 

http://www.strangevehicles.com/images/content/112354.jpg

 

On a serious note you need to see if they are loose as per the diagram and tighten up to the tourque as in the diagram you posted 200 and 125n.m respectively

 

Lol, cheers dude. I'll bare that in mind. Your always giving ne Good solid advice mate, I'm going to owe you a pint or two.

 

So far so good, all "problems" I have a cure for weather diy or expert touch.... EXCEPT my major concern... Black oily substance located on the inside of my exhaust.... Hmmm any suggestions

[Homer]

Regarding the exhaust deposits, the likely culprits have alrady been mentioned. It is normal to have some black soot in the exhaust and it may appear a bit "oily" if the car hasn't been used much - it'll just be normal carbon deposits and water vapour.

 

If it's smokey on startup (not white fumes) and goes away shortly afterwards it almost certainly be worn valve guides.

 

Do you have an AFR gauge installed? If you do then it's very easy to diagnose a faulty O2 sensor as it'll run rich on open loop. If you are going through a lot of fuel when off boost a faulty or sooted O2 sensor is a likely candidate so best to swap that if you have already ruled out pressure issues in the intake and lines.

 

What boost is the car running? Is it de-catted? Any other mods you know of?

[Kalel]

No guages apart from boost controller.

 

Cars mods: full bpu with fcon management system.

Again, I'm unsure of smoke, nothing struck my eye as abnormal. Seems smoke dissappeared after warm up, oil was all over the inside of exhaust & yes petrol consumption is very high.

 

Don't stress, a pint coming your way too.

 

 

Added:

I have an aftermarket stainless steel exhaust, boost guage reads at between -400&-500 and ups from 0 when I floor it

Edited September 10, 2010 by Kalel (see edit history)

[Homer]

Stress, never

 

All sounds okay so far, but you really should have an AFR gauge when going for BPU. What boost is it reaching under full throttle?

 

Do you know which Fcon ECU you have fitted? There are several versions and it will make a difference in terms of advice which one you have.

 

What is your fuel consumption during regular non-spirited driving - if below 16mpg then for sure something isn't right. It should normally be at minimum 18mpg, ideally 22mpg.

[Kalel]

Stress, never

 

All sounds okay so far, but you really should have an AFR gauge when going for BPU. What boost is it reaching under full throttle?

 

Do you know which Fcon ECU you have fitted? There are several versions and it will make a difference in terms of advice which one you have.

 

 

Apexi fcon qn/dc

never had enough chance to floor it long so wouldn't know how high guage reaches.

 

Mpg:? I'm unsure! Full tanked (£78) super unleaded.... Hardly drove and I'm half tanked!!! But I think the ditzy girlfriend fiddled with the trip buttons as it's Reading was reset. I'll calculate tomorrow.

Edited September 10, 2010 by Kalel (see edit history)

[Homer]

The Fcon is made by HKS, but you mention Apexi (different company and product) so things might be mixed up here...

 

qn/dc doesn't ring any bells. The HKS Fcon is normally either a derivative of the Fcon S and the Fcon V. One is a piggyback, the other a standalone hence the difference in which step to go to next.

 

Pics should explain everything if you could post one.

 

Edit - unless you mean the car has an Apexi Power FC?

[Kalel]

The Fcon is made by HKS, but you mention Apexi (different company and product) so things might be mixed up here...

 

qn/dc doesn't ring any bells. The HKS Fcon is normally either a derivative of the Fcon S and the Fcon V. One is a piggyback, the other a standalone hence the difference in which step to go to next.

 

Pics should explain everything if you could post one.

 

I don't know how to upload (iPhone) and I can't find a similar google image. Pm me your email address il send it to you(the image)