auto to manual conversions< neutral start switch ect

[johnd-mkiv]

when converting your autos to manual, what do you do about the ecu not thinking its an auto any more ?? im having trouble with my 1jz spluttering around 4 and read several problems to the ecu thinking its still in park or neutral

 

john

[ray007]

pm ryan g, he did the wiring on mine, or pm littlenum, he also done the conversion

[Homer]

You'll need to do the wiring mod on the gearbox plug (can't recall what it needs now, but there are some threads on the forum discussing it)

 

I don't beleive there are any other changes needed to the wiring and the stock auto ECU should work fine with the manual. I recall something about it retarding timing very near the rev limit but that shouldn't cause an issue in mid range.

 

Dude or Keron will know I am sure..

[JustGav]

Two sets of wire if I'm right, I can look up the colour code if need be.

[Matt _Aero top_]

Not really much help to this thread but how much would something like this cost roughly ?

[Swampy442]

Spluttering around 4 whats? If its 4k revs its not the start switch as its already started lol

[ray007]

Not really much help to this thread but how much would something like this cost roughly ?

 

depends on what gearbox your going for?

[Fitz]

Spluttering around 4 whats? If its 4k revs its not the start switch as its already started lol

 

Could be him trying to start around 4 o'clock in that case I'd wait til 5, or go early and start it at 3

 

Happy to Help

[johnd-mkiv]

lol from what I have read it needs the neutral start switch connected so the ecu knows the cars cranking but it will run disconnected as mine does, on the 1jz the sta wire and nsw as seen on the ecu pin out below need to be connected or the car splutters like mine.

http://www.clickdesign.co.uk/supradupra/html/1jz_wiring.html

 

This post describes the problems im having, the STA wire up in here is simple enough but the NSW wire im unsure of wiring as my engine loom runs to a kit car style loom with no NSW wire to pick up from.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?p=870699#post870699

heres a wire diagram of the nsw

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038

Looks to me like both wires splice into the ignition trigger wire, I have tried this but the car brings up the water temp sensor code for the ECU

Im now thinking once the car had cranked an runs these wires will now be running to earth, but shouldnt as the above post describes running to a relay.

 

Im no electrician but if some one can help me theres a few beers in it im sooooooooooo close to finnishing this car now and believe this to be the problem.

 

I have changed

coil packs

plugs

ignitor

coil pack clips checked and terminals tightened for a better conection

crank angle sensor

water temp sensor

set up tps from a toyota manual

checked, cam pos sensors and map sensors with a meter all in tolerance

The aeromotive FPR ignition on is showing just under 4 bar when running around 3 1/2 bar

Profec B boost controller is showing 1.2 bar of boost with 10% gain

blanked the BOV off just in case that was letting by still same.

[dude]

The neutrals start switch is purely that a start switch, without that the thing will not turn over, on a us car it would go to the clutch pedal.

[Ryan.G]

None of those links above work mate but from looking at the diagrams i have you need to link the NSW wire from the ecu to the ST1 output on your ignition barrel.

 

Then the STA input on the ecu needs to go through the the Neutral switch but to bypass it at the moment just give 12v to the STA pin on the ecu.

 

I would have said they go the other way around but from looking at the wiring diagrams it seems the above is correct.

 

Ryan