Could use some help on a few issues

[The-Plethora]

I am coming up to a nice week and a half off on holiday as I hit my 30th and middle age and want to spend a bit more time on the car. I should have a bit of cash floating about to get a few jobs done. I could use some recommendations / rough prices to get this sorted.

 

1. The car is running TTC at the moment I understand due to a faulty VSV discovered by the previous owner. Where can I get these VSVs checked over to find out which one is faulty and get it replaced?

Is this something Whifbitz or another trader could help with? Any other recommends? I am in the Bristol area but happy to travel even if its somone in the know who wants some cash for their time.

 

2. At very very low speeds the engine belt (I presume) squeeks a bit, need to check if this is a jockey wheel or something else.

 

3.Speedo could do with calibrating properly and petrol guage sometimes sticks. Could do with a dash out job but not sure I can tackle this alone.

 

Theres a few other jobs that I can hopefully tackle myself but the ones above I would rather get professional advice in person on.

 

Cheers for any help

[pistonbroke]

TTC mode eliminates one of the VSV's IIRC, so it'll be the one on the top at the rear above turbo 2. I'll link a picture for you once I get home this evening providing no one else has already. I'd get one from Keron on the cheap and swap them over.

 

Your squeak could just be a worn belt, change the belt first as it's the cheapest option, then go from there.

 

Have you got aftermarket dials fitted?, if so, this could be the root of both the next problems. The speedo needle may have been removed and put back in the wrong position giving the wrong reading. Incorrectly fitted dials may also be the cause of your gauge sticking.

 

The speedo issue was apparent on another car I owned, so I put a tom tom sat nav in the car with the speedo needle removed, then got the sat nav to 30mph and pushed the needle back on in the right position, job done.

 

If aftermarket dials are fitted, then refitting the dial for the temp and fuel gauge may sort that problem.

Edited August 20, 2010 by pistonbroke (see edit history)

[Rummy]

You may have a calibration screw somewhere behind the clocks, like the Thor units do.

 

If you do use a Sat Nav to adjust the speed, bare in mind they use an AVERAGE speed not actual speed.

[The-Plethora]

Thaks for the pointers, the car has had Defi guages fitted at some point, I presume you need to take apart most of the dash to get to the clocks?

Potentially the fuel guage could be a loose connection and just need soldering, the temp guage goes up about quarter way so it does work but is this pretty much standard for a supra? other cars I have owned it generally sits about half way, I havent got round to wiring in the cigg lighter from when the dash was last taken out before I owned it so looking for volonteers for this

 

Good info pistonbroke, I understand there are 3 VSVs in total? can you be sure that it would deffinately be the top one? I have got some decent length vaccum hose to fit back on up top as it had been cut / removed. If I could compare it to a standard supra someplace it might give a bit more confidence.

 

I imagine a trader would be fairly expensive even for giving it a once over but it would give me peace of mind and the chance to ask some probably dumb questions

[pistonbroke]

Here you go mate.

 

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/andy.htm

 

The IACV VSV mentioned on the above is the one that is bypassed when TTC'ing. It's that simple. Just get another one of them, and plumb in as shown at the start of the instructions.

 

Temp gauge should sit at halfway mate, it's even more likely to be the dial face catching on the dials now you've mentioned that. It there not a local member to Mr Plethora here who can lend a hand. The dash cluster is a real easy job, I'd be more than happy to do it for you matey, but I'm a bit far away.

 

Edit to add, my bad, there are two VSV's in question to TTC, read the intraucyions posted above and you'll see them both.

Edited August 20, 2010 by pistonbroke (see edit history)

[The-Plethora]

Cheers for the help so far, I thought if I put pictures up with a direct comparrison with the page pistonbroke linked it might help, couple of things I didnt expect.

 

 

Ok here is the top IACV, as you can see its not attatched and the lines have been cut, this is fairly simple as I have the propper stuff to replace that.

 

A bit of a different route as we look at it from the side as the car has some aftermarket bits on it. Nothing unexpected here.

 

 

 

This is where the confusion starts! I am checking and checking and checking again, I think if I wanted to perform the mod it would be fairly straightforward, going back and finding whats missing is the tricky bit. I will try and get some more pics as I go.

Also on a side note, I heard using bolts to block pipes is fairly standard, but out of interest what is the braided pipe that is bolt blocked for?

 

As for the aftermarket dials piston, to get to them do I have to remove the most of the dash?

If that offer of help is still on the table at some point I appreciate it Also looking at getting the starter and coil packs refurbed soon.

Edited August 22, 2010 by The-Plethora (see edit history)

[Purity14]

Squeel from a belt could mean crank pulley, search for the tipex test.

[pistonbroke]

Does your car have a boost controller fitted.?

 

The second actuator mentioned is controlled by the controller, so it may be why your pipe setup doesn't match.

 

The whole dash doesn't have to come out. Remove the facia sections where the heater controls are along with the durrounding panels, along with the strip across the top and you'll be able to remove the dash cluster. It's not complicated, but I understand you not wanting to do it if you've not done it before.

 

I don't mind helping out dude, but like I said, I live miles away, there must be other members closer.

Edited August 23, 2010 by pistonbroke (see edit history)