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how to fit your stubby conversion


supra steveo

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  • 2 months later...
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Hoping iv just neglected to do something obvious, cannot get any signal at all this is how I have it set up atm [ATTACH]189809[/ATTACH, have both wires running into the amp in my boot

Thanks in advance for any help

[ATTACH]189806[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]189807[/ATTACH][ATTACH]189808[/ATTACH]

 

May I ask why you connected it to your amp?

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Hey Jason you sorted yet ......... Wow I missed that one :/

 

Frizzy your in luck, I am home in Newcastle on Saturday ...... I could fit it for you

 

I'd like to pick up a kit from you. Are you able to ship to Canada? Not sure why, but my account won't let me reply to your group buy thread, or send you a PM yet. Maybe you can PM me?

 

Thanks!

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I'd like to pick up a kit from you. Are you able to ship to Canada? Not sure why, but my account won't let me reply to your group buy thread, or send you a PM yet. Maybe you can PM me?

 

Thanks!

 

You need to be a paid member before you can use the PM system and post up in the classifieds sections

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  • 11 months later...
Al, It's an Alpine and I can't find the keys, I've been online but that didn't really help.

 

Gaz, could you suggest any of these, I'm good at the metally bits but not so good at the wiggly bits.

 

Ah, you don't use keys to remove the stereo in the supra.

You remove the dash and the stereo is bolted to a cage behind the dash, I think there is a guide somewhere.

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Al, It's an Alpine and I can't find the keys, I've been online but that didn't really help.

 

Gaz, could you suggest any of these, I'm good at the metally bits but not so good at the wiggly bits.

Al is right, the supra uses a separate cage that bolts to the sides of the stereo, and this then bolts into the dash.

 

The stereo panel is a fiddly bugger to get out, because they must've been on rations when wiring the heater controls and dash clock 😂

 

 

I can't say of any specific switched live in the boot area off hand bud, but a quick check with a multimeter will find one. Your rear fog light will likely be wired to a switched live

 

 

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Thanks for the replies, I have removed the dash before, and it is a bit of a pain, especially if you are trying very hard not to scratch anything. I may have a go at the weekend, see if I can figure out the right wire at the back of the unit.

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  • 5 years later...

Bit of a thread resurrection here, but my car was off the road for many years until recently.  And the aerial (or lack of reception) is my penultimate issue left to fix.

I had very poor reception when I swapped to this kit but couldn't figure out why at the time.   Then looking at it closer now I have 2 queries and am hoping someone that is a whizz with electronics and car electrics can enlighten me.

1)  The base unit is amplified, but for that to work you need to complete the electrical circuit, first by connecting the red wire to power, but also the base of the unit needs to be grounded, hence the metal base. On a stock install would be when it's bolted to the body of the car. But with this install it's not. So the base units amplifier will never work?

image.png.7b32d57fdf7fcd81c3fad6409da85ce2.png

 

2) What is connected to ground and to the entire car body is the mast, as the extension via the bracket is grounded to the car. But surely this shouldn't be grounded and would cause all kinds of interference and signal issues?  The mast should be totally isolated to avoid interference? 

image.png.293607557c5d4beb72a7eb6cbf63b8fb.png

 

 

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