danger_supe Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 hey troops, just looking for a bit of help by confirming the correct installation position of the rear droplinks. they have a sort of locking washer and i am hoping someone can tell/show me how the locking washer sits when they are correctly installed for each side. a picture would be ideal! pic attached to indicate the locking washer i am talking about thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 The tabs just go up against the mountings to stop the stud rotating when you tighten the nuts up, they will find their own location. You DO know the tricks to removing the old nuts, don't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoppy Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 You DO know the tricks to removing the old nuts, don't you? What's these bolt removal tricks then Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Heat them with a welding torch to kill the Loctite. Use a top quality Allen key in the cleaned out and blown out Allen recess in the cold stud, using plenty of release agent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 failing that or if they just lock up, cut em off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoppy Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Ok thanks for the info guys. I note this down for when i change mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger_supe Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 (edited) The tabs just go up against the mountings to stop the stud rotating when you tighten the nuts up, they will find their own location. You DO know the tricks to removing the old nuts, don't you? Cheers for the reply Chris, I got one side off ok but the other needed cut off. The reason I ask about this is cuz iv already installed the new drop links but still got knocking/clunking from the rear and my mechanic said they looked a little weird. I'll try get a pic to show, nsr side looks ok but the osr lock is sitting vertical and not "locked" against the arb. Both links feel quite loose even when the full weight of the car is on them. They're far looser than the fronts, could it b that I have a dodgy set of rear links? Edited August 15, 2010 by danger_supe Typo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 U sure it's not a top arm bush knocking? I've got minimal play in my nrs top arm and that knocks like a goodun.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger_supe Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Hey, sorry I should hav mentioned iv just replaced arms that had play in them as well so I would hope that it's nothing coming from the arms etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger_supe Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 (edited) ok so i have taken a picture of how the osr droplink is currently installed on my supe - as you can see, the bottom "lock tab" sits against the arm....where as the top one is sitting there pointing to the sky! does anyone know if these tabs actually serve a purpose? or are they there purely for installation purposes so that when you tighten them up it can lock against the arm/arb so the nut etc can be tightened properly? The nsr lock tabs seem to be sitting ok and against the arm/arb Thanks for all the replies so far Dave Edited August 18, 2010 by danger_supe typo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Purely to aid installation, once the nut is torqued they do sod all. If you used the female Allen keyway to hold the stud whilst torquing they wouldn't be needed at all. Don't worry about their final orientation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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