dr_jekyll Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 good afternoon fine gentlemen i am about to delv into the world of engine rebulding and what better way to lern than to dive in head first and do it . So i have a 2jz ge in pices and i want to put it back togeter, with some upgrades:sly: my question that i put to those with the prior knowlage and experience is. What is the best way to clean mating surfaces for a perfect seal . i.e the block to mate to the heas and the underside of the head itself. and any other hints and tips for re-assembling a 2jz would be much apriciated thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Wire brush the head face of the block, then go over it again witha FLAT, very fine oil stone to make sure there are no raised bits around threads or oil / waterways. It will need steaming out with all core and oil plugs removed and the oil ways rodding with rifle cleaning brushes. Expect to spend at least an hour cleaning a block, with all tools to hand and ready to go. Much longer if you don't have a steam cleaner. Consider getting it hot tanked. Be sure to dry it fast in front of a hot air blower and immediately WD40 all the machined surfaces. The fully stripped bare head can be done with thinners, a soft scraper and patience, or you could get it fly cut taking off a couple of thou inch if it's ropey looking. Then steam it off and dry as above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Wire brush the head face of the block, then go over it again witha FLAT, very fine oil stone to make sure there are no raised bits around threads or oil / waterways. It will need steaming out with all core and oil plugs removed and the oil ways rodding with rifle cleaning brushes. Expect to spend at least an hour cleaning a block, with all tools to hand and ready to go. Much longer if you don't have a steam cleaner. Consider getting it hot tanked. Be sure to dry it fast in front of a hot air blower and immediately WD40 all the machined surfaces. The fully stripped bare head can be done with thinners, a soft scraper and patience, or you could get it fly cut taking off a couple of thou inch if it's ropey looking. Then steam it off and dry as above. thanks alot. the sufaces all look in verry good condition so i dont think it will need to be cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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