overdrive, front spoiler and cruise control problem

[Guest johnny boy]

Hey guys,

For the last few weeks ive been having an intermitant problem with my front spoiler randomly coming down when poodling along the road at no real speed (i.e 30mph) it only started happening randomly and then while on the motor way today i noticed it hadnt come down at all (green light on dash not on). I called my collegue infront of me and he confirmed it wasnt down as i thought the light may have been out.

 

After going a little way further down the motorway the overdrive light started to flash on the dash but was not engaging and disengaging the overdrive (effecting the revs).

 

I thought this funny and im a big user of cruise control and when the traffic cleared i tried to engage the cruise control and it would not hold the speed. Are all these related

 

Im guessing that all these items need a speed sensor of some sort so are these all related to a single speed sensor that may have become faulty or is it just sods law and a number of things have gone wrong at the same time.

 

please help as im afraid to drive the car incase it does more damage to the gearbox if any at all.

 

what do you think?

[CanisLupus]

I've had a problem with the Speed signal coming to the ECU(one time my avcr showed 14500kph as top speed oO)

with this problem the spoiler also came down and up. So this would be the first thing to check

[Guest johnny boy]

I've had a problem with the Speed signal coming to the ECU(one time my avcr showed 14500kph as top speed oO)

with this problem the spoiler also came down and up. So this would be the first thing to check

 

 

is there anyway in which i can check this without a mechanic?

[lonbhold75]

I did a search both here and on supraforums and found the below which should assist you in your delima:

 

This was copy and pasted direct from MarkSupra33 on supra forums

Okay, let's start off by answering your question. In the diagnostic port that you speak of, nothing is in there but ports. If you look on the bottom of the cover, locate where the TE1 and the E1 ports are. Take a wire (pretty much a standard wire with both ends uncovered from their protective covering and put one end in the E1 port, and the other end into the TE1 port. Once the wire is in place, go put the key in the ignition and turn the car's electrical system on. Once you do this, look on the left side of your dash on the warning cluster, and you'll see you MIL light blinking. The MIL light is the one all the way to the right of that cluster over there right below the security light on the left side of your dash. Okay, so count how many time it blinks, and there will be a pause between certain numbers.

I'll bet you it blinks 4 times, then you get a pause, then it blinks twice. This would signal code number 42, you see? Okay, so if it blinks like this, then continue reading, cuz I know how to fix it. If it doesn't blink at all, you either are not throwing a code, or your cluster is broken. To see if it's broken or not, it should light up when you turn the car's electrical system on automatically, then go away. Anyhow, here we go with code 42:This is a glitch in the speed sensor signal. Your speed sensor sits on your auto tranny bellhousing. It sends a signal up into the odometer, gets buffed in the odometer, then is sent back out and into the guage cluster (tachometer, speedometer) Even with this problem, your odometer will STILL WORK, and so will your speedometer and tach. However, the signal is still messed up somewhere, and you'll get the annoying blinking O/D OFF light, as well as possible gear-searching with the auto transmission at low speeds (it searches for gears randomly, and is not fluent.) If you use the rip odometer functions, they will randomly reset when this problem occurs. It will also keep the cruise from working. Okay, now how to fix it:Here's the free fix:

Open up your dash and look at you odometer harness. You'll see a group of three wires back there. One's brown, one is pink, and one is blue/red. Ignore the brown one. The pink wire brings the signal INTO the odo from the speed sensor. The blue/red wire brings the signal FROM the odo to the tach. Normally the problem is in the odometer, which will need replaced. However, you can bypass it by CUTTING the pink wire on the harness, then splicing it into the blue/red wire. This way, the signal bypasses the odometer and goes right into the blue/red wire to go into the tach. If you read my thread, you'll see that this SHOULD solve your problem. Other possibilities are a failed speed sensor (but then your tach and speedo wouldn't work), or a screwed up guage cluster. Most likely it was the odometer. Keep in mind that this theoretically bypasses the odometer, but it MAY NOT fix it and the odo may still need to be replaced. But it's worked on almost everyone I know. Anyhow, go ahead and do that splice trick, and then your O/D light should go away, your tranny should shift fine, your cruise should work, and you should be okay. After the splice trick, reset your ecu.

Then plug the harness back in, put back together your dash, and give her a shot!. Keep in mind that everything will still clock up correctly. This splice trick has NO downfalls except for the fact that you hack up a wire on your harness. Just make sure you left enough room to splice it back just incase it doesn't work. Other than that, hopefully this has solved your problem. It takes roughyl 10 minutes to do, if you're an amateur. Let me know if this works or not, and let me know if I can help you in any other way

 

Hope that sorts you out.

Dave

[CanisLupus]

is there anyway in which i can check this without a mechanic?

 

I found out because my AVCR has a Speed input. Don't know if there is another way

 

Lonbholds idea is very good though to test everything