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Mitsubishi Evo 6


RobD

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Just wondered peoples thoughts on these? I've been looking for a replacement for the supra after it's sold, so far I've shortened the list to a e46 m3, r34 skyline and maybe an Evo 6 (possibly 7), just wanted to know peoples experiences with them, common faults etc :)

 

I'm off to jurgens tomorrow with another a mate so while I was up there maybe look around one if there's any there and maybe get a idea of price! :)

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I've got a frien ho had an evo 5 and now an evo6, from his experiance they are high maintenance cars and to be honest I prefer the supra

 

if u getting a replacement it'll have to be the r34 gtr, purely for looks and partly performance

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if u getting a replacement it'll have to be the r34 gtr, purely for looks and partly performance

 

I'm not that rich mate! :D I was thinking on a modest gtt manual and maybe a GTR kit :)

 

 

The 6 is the best of the bunch, but keep it standard IMO.

 

 

Yeah I think so to, maybe tempted with a few engine mods but I wouldn't go stupid with it :)

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Something that springs to mind straight away

 

FULL ENGINE REBUILD DONE 1500MILES AGO STILL UNDER WARRANTY 6000MILES ENGINE WARRANTY LEFT

 

I would love to see anyone get anything from that warranty if the engine went pop

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Something that springs to mind straight away

 

FULL ENGINE REBUILD DONE 1500MILES AGO STILL UNDER WARRANTY 6000MILES ENGINE WARRANTY LEFT

 

I would love to see anyone get anything from that warranty if the engine went pop

 

Thats a little cheap for a 6, it was more of an example of how nice they look :D

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Boring boring boring cars. V RS is the pick of the bunch for me, it's the lightest and the fastest. The best looker is the 6 IMO and it comes with a more civilised trim/drive/feel. The V is just as raw as it gets.

 

Very high maintenence and ridiculous insurance premiums. What age are you Rob? I have it in my head you are young? Have you checked insurance for them?

 

I LOVED mine, for a few months.

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the 6 is the pinnacle of the evo's. It is the best looking out of the lot. I used to look after them alot, and the main thing to watch out for is the clutch. they love to eat them. Also they suffer with the main loom being worn away. This is only if you lower them too much as the loom runs in the drivers side front arch and quite loose.

 

The main reason for eating the loom is removal of the inner arch be it on purpose or accidental loss. The RS will keep you on your toes as it does not come with AYC and more of a drivers car.

 

The evo 6 needs a service around 4500 miles, also you need a mutt11 equipment to service the AYC, which normally is a main dealer job.

 

When test driving and the car has warmed up select third and floor it from 2000rpm to about 5500rpm, it should accelerate smoothly. If you get a jerk or bad hesitation at roughly 4000rpm-4500rpm then this is a fuel cut due to detected overboost. This can be due to several reasons but it needs to be corrected.

 

Suspension clonks/grating from the rear at low speed and full lock mean the AYC is faulty.

 

Try and verify that the car has been run on super-unleaded ONLY. 95 RON will damage an EVO !

 

The first and most important thing to look for is a FULL service history. Any owner worth negotiating with will have taken the trouble to stamp his service record book .... this is a MUST. The car must have a service for every 4500 miles it has covered and also a 1000 miles running in service. Bear in mind that if the car has covered less than 4500 miles over a 12 month period then it also must have a service for the annual period

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the 6 is the pinnacle of the evo's. It is the best looking out of the lot. I used to look after them alot, and the main thing to watch out for is the clutch. they love to eat them. Also they suffer with the main loom being worn away. This is only if you lower them too much as the loom runs in the drivers side front arch and quite loose.

 

The main reason for eating the loom is removal of the inner arch be it on purpose or accidental loss. The RS will keep you on your toes as it does not come with AYC and more of a drivers car.

 

The evo 6 needs a service around 4500 miles, also you need a mutt11 equipment to service the AYC, which normally is a main dealer job.

 

When test driving and the car has warmed up select third and floor it from 2000rpm to about 5500rpm, it should accelerate smoothly. If you get a jerk or bad hesitation at roughly 4000rpm-4500rpm then this is a fuel cut due to detected overboost. This can be due to several reasons but it needs to be corrected.

 

Suspension clonks/grating from the rear at low speed and full lock mean the AYC is faulty.

 

Try and verify that the car has been run on super-unleaded ONLY. 95 RON will damage an EVO !

 

The first and most important thing to look for is a FULL service history. Any owner worth negotiating with will have taken the trouble to stamp his service record book .... this is a MUST. The car must have a service for every 4500 miles it has covered and also a 1000 miles running in service. Bear in mind that if the car has covered less than 4500 miles over a 12 month period then it also must have a service for the annual period

 

Thanks for that, I signed up to the evo forum yesterday and saw a few threads on AYC, does the AYC suffer alot of faults?

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The EVO ecu, whether Japanese or Ralliart UK supplied, is designed to run on a higher fuel grade than available in the UK. Regular grade in Japan is 100RON with reports of up to 108RON actually being available. The ecu WILL run on UK super-unleaded 97RON without a remap but standard unleaded 95RON can cause detonation damage to the engine if used for long periods.

 

Also if you buy a car that has actually been used in Japan with higher fuel gardes then it might be an idea to reset the ecu by diconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. For a car that was new in eth UK or ralliart supplied try to ensure that it has been used with Super Unleaded. Don't ask the vendor if he's used SUL, rather, ask him what fuel he has used to test if he really is aware of this. When you get your EVO, run it on SUL yourself. If you're ever stuck and can't find any out there then fill with a fivers worth of 95 and hunt for a proper filling station. Its generally accepted that the use of 95RON with octane boosters is also NOT a good idea.

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The EVO ecu, whether Japanese or Ralliart UK supplied, is designed to run on a higher fuel grade than available in the UK. Regular grade in Japan is 100RON with reports of up to 108RON actually being available. The ecu WILL run on UK super-unleaded 97RON without a remap but standard unleaded 95RON can cause detonation damage to the engine if used for long periods.

 

Also if you buy a car that has actually been used in Japan with higher fuel gardes then it might be an idea to reset the ecu by diconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. For a car that was new in eth UK or ralliart supplied try to ensure that it has been used with Super Unleaded. Don't ask the vendor if he's used SUL, rather, ask him what fuel he has used to test if he really is aware of this. When you get your EVO, run it on SUL yourself. If you're ever stuck and can't find any out there then fill with a fivers worth of 95 and hunt for a proper filling station. Its generally accepted that the use of 95RON with octane boosters is also NOT a good idea.

 

I use super unleaded in my supra anyway so no biggy there, i'll see if Jurgen has any hidden at his place tomorrow and maybe have a look around one.

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Thanks for that, I signed up to the evo forum yesterday and saw a few threads on AYC, does the AYC suffer alot of faults?

 

TBH, its a pain the the bloody arse fella. It it fails be prepared for fun. Its mainly faulty AYC brain. Or someone tried to do the fluid change themselves and screwed it up and got an air lock in it.

 

All so when buying one ask for the paper work for the rear lower arms, the evo 4 ,5,and 6 had problems with the lower rear arms cracking around the bush and sending the wheel bouncing down the road lol, this was due to a weakness in the alloy. In the uk white dove done the work for free to rectify this fault.

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I use super unleaded in my supra anyway so no biggy there, i'll see if Jurgen has any hidden at his place tomorrow and maybe have a look around one.

 

They are lovely cars but get boring after a while, hence why I suggest you go for an rs or rsx. The main thing with the clutch is that any pressure on the clutch pedal at all will engage it, they are bastards for it. Also keep an eye on the ic hoses pop off on the front mounts.

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