pedrosixfour Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 (edited) Hi people. I had the SZ-R up at Mondello again yesterday. I seem to be having trouble up-shifting to third unless I double clutch. The problem doesn't seem to be there on the way back down through the W58 gearbox and it only seems to be third gear with the problem. The box never appeared to be suffering any problems before yesterday, just a bit to the clunky side of sweet. The pickle I find myself in now is I'll be taking delivery of a 1JZ engine soon to do an engine swap. Before this new problem appeared I was confident that all I had to do was remove the new flywheel and clutch I got for the 2JZ (NA) bolt them to the 1JZ and then bolt my W58 to the new engine. I honestly thought that the W58 would easily stand up to a stock 1JZ's torque and power delivery especially now that there is a 4.3 final drive ratio in the diff. Am I completely mistaken? Have I just experienced first hand the W58's well documented weakness or is this merely something that could've happened no matter which gearbox I was thrashing?? And now for your assistance; can someone tell me if the flywheel and clutch combo I bought for my 2JZ-GE, W58 spec car is suitable to use with a 1JZ-GTE engine mated to a R154 gearbox? (I honestly can't cover the expense of a Getrag after recent purchases like suspension, polybushes and an engine) If it is, what other parts would I need to complete the conversion from W58 to R154 assuming the R154 is from a later model Soarer and as such has the gearstick in the proper orientation? If it's not and I wanted to get some use from the flywheel and clutch would it make any sense to open my gearbox and do a costing on a repair to it? Surely if it's just one synchro giving trouble it could be worth repairing? Or should I just hunt down another W58, slap it in and see how that one likes being tied to a 1JZ-GTE at a trackday? Sorry for the length of this, I've had 24 hours to think about my dilemma without interruption! But thank you to all who have taken the time to read it. I humbly await your knowledgable replies. Edited August 3, 2010 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) Y'know, if I had the money I'd be feckin lethal! http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?parentid=3&parent2id=18&productid=42 Tell me that would kit wouldn't prove itself to be very handy. Clutchless gear change anyone?? It's all complete fantasy however, unless I win the lotto tomorrow night. Edited August 13, 2010 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Do I hazard a guess who did that wiring in the second link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Do I hazard a guess who did that wiring in the second link? Turbofit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Was thinking more trans Atlantic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 (edited) I'm sure it must have actually been an Antipodean clothes-line specialist. All joking aside Chris in your capacity as resident sage would a kit like that fitted to a W58 casing cure it of its inherent weakness? What is the achilles heel of a stock W58 anyway? I'm more than likely going to strip my own box and at least replace the synchros but possibly the bearings too if they look fatigued. Again in your expert and much valued opinion am I wasting my time or should a refurbished W58 handle the torque of a stock 1JZ in racing conditions? Edited August 14, 2010 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Littlenum has a w58 on his 1jz and has done a few trackdays now with no problems, obviously a 154 would be a good option if you can get 1 but i think you might be just unlucky with your 58, if you can get another 58 for the right price i`d go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Do I hazard a guess who did that wiring in the second link? http://www.infohub.com/forums/images/smilies/cowboy.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Littlenum has a w58 on his 1jz and has done a few trackdays now with no problems, obviously a 154 would be a good option if you can get 1 but i think you might be just unlucky with your 58, if you can get another 58 for the right price i`d go that route. I now a replacement W58 would be the simplest option mate (until I'd go to actually look for one ) but I could be buying a box in worse condition than my own and wouldn't really know until I was at Mondello again. I don't think anyone's last words will ever be "Just remember, you can never have too many shagged W58s in the garden......." Plus I'd really like to understand the internals of a gearbox. It's a kind of learning experience tied in with a friggin' expensive hobby! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 I have had drivers who can break an type *whatever* Hewland in a single qualifying session, and others with the same car / engine / gearbox combination that can run a set of dog rings and gears all season. A lot depends how you treat. Gearbox makers rate their products by torque capacity. Shock loads are like an impact gun, they give a short very high torque peak, so drag racing is a killer, track days with no standing starts with a sympathetic driver are relative luxury for a gearbox. Throw enough torque at any gearbox and you'll break something though. I chuckle when some people say they wouldn't take their car on track, because they may damage something, yet give it 10 times the grief at a drag strip! So a fresh W58 may last a while but you are making it sweat a lot, and unsympathetic usage will definitely kill it quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Thank you for the above Chris. I certainly would need to take some responsibility for the present condition of the gearbox, the 'box in my Prelude grinds going into 5th at any speed over 65mph and I fitted more gearboxes to my first car, a Bluebird, than brake pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Just ordered a full W58 rebuild kit (bearings, seals, gaskets & synchros) from Driftmotion for $212 + shipping. I'm expecting to receive a box of stale cheddar shavings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 dcarter21 on here has a w58 with a 4puck clutch and a BPU 2jzGTE and he cant kill it.. Done loads of drift days etc and hammers it all the time, It just wont die lol.. Might just be a good one, but ive seen more v160s die than w58s.. and a V160 is supposed to be indestrucable lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 Problem is a little worse than I thought. I think banging it into third too early on the way back down through the gears has resulted in a bit of a dilemma. The snap-ring which holds the third gear assembly in place on the output shaft has seen some big thrust at some stage and has damaged (obliterated) the groove wall in which it sits. The snap ring is practically free to move along the output shaft towards the input shaft allowing the third gear assembly to move with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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