Lude Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I wouldn't think there is sludge in the system the amount of times I flushed it out last year when trying to fix this problem. Dave (supraloopy) flushed it out when he had it last year too. The water pump was a new toyota one last year too so shouldn't be a problem with that. I will change the vicous fan. Strange thing is I drove the car again last night, only for around 20 mins, but no over heating again. The heater in the car doesn't get very hot, but I put that down to the aftermarket heater matrix I put in (reviewed somewhere on here) as it had been said it doesn't get at hot. Not sure how it doesn't get as hot as its only a metal case that still contains the same coolant. bleed the system mate. my heaters were crap when i had the car. car didnt overheat tho, just crap heaters. ive bled mine easy, hose pipe, engine runing, heaters on hot, keep topping up with the hose pipe. some people install a bleed valve on the top water pipe at the back of the engine, but i bled mine easy enough with a hose pipe. an aftermarket water temperature gauge is handy aswell dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 bleed it with a hose pipe? how do you mean lude? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 just mean have the hose pipe with water coming out of it, at the radiator, rarther than filling kettles up of water. continious flow of water, then when it warms up the steam comes out. top it up to the brim, every so often a buble of air comes out. take it for a drive round the block, then top up some more. did this and my heaters were boiling and temp was normal (80degres as per Greddy gauge) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ugp Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 bleed it with a hose pipe? how do you mean lude? Maybe invest in one of them bleeding funnels like what Podge has used, came from the states I believe. It clips onto the rad cap and sucks the air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 just mean have the hose pipe with water coming out of it, at the radiator, rarther than filling kettles up of water. continious flow of water, then when it warms up the steam comes out. top it up to the brim, every so often a buble of air comes out. take it for a drive round the block, then top up some more. did this and my heaters were boiling and temp was normal (80degres as per Greddy gauge) What about the antifreeze ? The coolant system shouldn't have tap water in it, even if you use a concentated antifreeze that you dilute you should use demineralised water or distilled water, not tap water ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 What about the antifreeze ? The coolant system shouldn't have tap water in it, even if you use a concentated antifreeze that you dilute you should use demineralised water or distilled water, not tap water ! I have Red4Life coolant in my car, and thats not on tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) I'd get your car to a garage that knows what its doing and get the system pressure tested, all the info to do this is in the coolant section of the WSM Edited June 8, 2011 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Just found one of these: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel on amazon US. There is a video on youtube of a guy using one too. Look like a normal funnel but with a special rad cap adapter. Can't find on in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 I'd get your car to a garage that knows what its doing and get the system pressure tested, all the info to do this is in the coolant section of the WSM Dave (Supraloopy) already had it last year testing for problems. Didn't find any leaks, passed the block test and sniff test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Dave (Supraloopy) already had it last year testing for problems. Didn't find any leaks, passed the block test and sniff test. I thought you said it had a leak in your first post and you had to top it up ? forget that, ive just read the whole thread without skimming lol so its not losing any coolant now but still overheats and doesnt blow very hot air from heater ? Edited June 8, 2011 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 There have been several developments since the first post....that was a year ago. Its not leaking at all now, I changed the heater matrix at the end of last summer. Its been fine through the winter, but then over heated last weekend which was the first decent drive I have had in the hot weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 There have been several developments since the first post....that was a year ago. Its not leaking at all now, I changed the heater matrix at the end of last summer. Its been fine through the winter, but then over heated last weekend which was the first decent drive I have had in the hot weather. Yes i've read the thread properly now This might sound silly but was the thermostat checked before it was fitted to see at what temp it opened ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 A bit off topic, but what heater matrix did you use? Can you remember the manufacturer or have a link to the site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Heater matrix: http://www.demisterman.co.uk/Toyota/Toyota%20Supra%20Mk4%201993-98%20heater%20matrix.php I didn't check the thermostat, it was straight from toyota brand new so just went with trust. But all pipes are hot, rad top, rad bottom, heater matrix pipes in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Ah, I was afraid it would be that matrix. I was hoping to get one myself soon, and hadn't heard anything bad about them until now. Perhaps I'll just bite down and get an OEM one from Toyota. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 I haven't said anything bad about the matrix, seems fine to me. It doesn't get as hot as the standard one, but that could be an airlock if I have one! It has been mentioned before anyway. I would recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks for clearing that up, my misunderstanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 why cant you use tap water? what water are you supost to use? it must cost loads to use & fill up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 You should use distilled water. Tap water has mineral depsoits which can fur up the coolant pathways. In the good 'ol days there was an argument that distilled water (being a more powerful solvent than tap water) eroded some of the engine's pipework away (and possibly leave deposits behind when it cools anyway), but I reckon limescale is a bigger danger than dissolving pipework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) why cant you use tap water? what water are you supost to use? it must cost loads to use & fill up? You should use either the pre mixed Toyota coolant called cool red (4life) £35 approx for 10 litres or a similar Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze. The system holds just under 9 litres for both NA or TT Tap water is full of impurities etc as already said and also freezes quite easily, if it freezes you can blow out core plugs, crack radiators even cylinder blocks. Edited June 8, 2011 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Any other ideas on my overheating DnK? How would be the best method to bleed this system. 1. Drive car for 20 mins 2. Jack up front 3. Open rad cap 4. turn on engine 5. Let all air bubble out 6. Done Its the opening the rad cap after 20 mins driving that gets me.....won't that blow coolant everywhere? Also, is that the best method? Is there a bleeder valve anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 You fitted a new stat , is it correct ? does it have a jiggle pin? Dealers get things wrong sometimes ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 it was over a year ago I fitted the new stat, I don't know what a jiggle pin is but it was exactly the same as the one I took out of the car....only shinier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 I replaced the pipe that goes to the overflow with a silicone hose.....that shouldn't have any impact should it? Old one was rotten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 There is a small hole in the stat , in the hole is a tiny bit of metal with a tiny ball or a tiny valve. AKA "jiggle pin" these allow air to pass through the stat if closed(cold) and aid bleeding air from the system , a type of self bleed system . Often wrong stats are fitted and air is very tricky to bleed out You end up chasing round in circles finding airlocks ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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