jackso11 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 Finally, I am on a computer and not my phone! Fingers crossed it is the water pump. I have only ever changed the pump on a mazda mx-3 and the cam belt needed to come of to get to it, along with about half the engine.....is that the case here? Where abouts is the water pump? I have the OEM undertray, which is great for protection but means I can't see anything from underneath! Chris, I will pm you about that pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 there is no power loss, no steam in the exhaust fumes, drives just the same as always, no white foam in the oil, these are normal BHG symptoms aren't they? It must be the pump. Also I have found 2 cambelt change receipts with no pump change, previous owner, so it could still be the original pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 there is no power loss, no steam in the exhaust fumes, drives just the same as always, no white foam in the oil, these are normal BHG symptoms aren't they? It must be the pump. Also I have found 2 cambelt change receipts with no pump change, previous owner, so it could still be the original pump. Well all that sounds promising for you, as yes they are all symptoms, although not conclusive, you can have compression getting into the water system and thats when the sniff testing holds it's own. Sadly, yes the crank pulley, beltcovers, cambelt etc all have to come off to get the pump off. Great time to replace your belt, tensioner arm and maybe your crank pulley though if you can afford it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 What sort of cost would it be to replace all that at once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 What sort of cost would it be to replace all that at once? Are you going to do it yourself, or pay someone? I think OEM pumps are around £80 now, but CW has already told you that he has one, pattern pupms are out there for around £50 and to be honest the one I bought looked identical in everyway. Tensioners are about £35, belt maybe about £50ish for an OEM one, butthe killer would be the crank pulley. It maybe that your pulley is fine. From what I sem to be reading lately it seems to be the trend to change these if they are of unknown age/condition. If you are happy with yours then leave it. If your belt and tensioner has been changed not so long ago then you could leave these too, but generally speaking most would reccomend you stick new ones one while you have it in pieces. But first thing you need to do if find out if it is the pump as otherwise all this is just speculation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 If your head gasket was gone you'd no it in the way the car drives.... Choppy and jerking like it was in it's last legs. you'd probably notice a white cloud out the exhaust and your Toyota coolant would disappear, not via splatting all over the engine bay but out the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 If your head gasket was gone you'd no it in the way the car drives.... Choppy and jerking like it was in it's last legs. you'd probably notice a white cloud out the exhaust and your Toyota coolant would disappear, not via splatting all over the engine bay but out the exhaust. Have to say mate that that is not always the symptoms of a BHG. Yes in some cases that would desribe it perfectly, but not in others. There are a few ways that the seal between the head and block can break down and not all with the same symptoms, not initially at least. However, in Jackso's case it really doesnt sound like it is the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 I thought I had solved the problem this morning, started the engine up cold and looked under the bonnet and coolant was spraying out from the top rad pipe. Changed the jubilee clip and solved it, guessed once its up to temp the coupling must have swollon and stopped it leaking until it built up pressure. Seems to be running ok, but I have noticed a very tiny amount of steam coming out the exhaust after a 30min run. put my had over the exaust while running and my hand becomes damp......this points to the head gasket doesn't it...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 I thought I had solved the problem this morning, started the engine up cold and looked under the bonnet and coolant was spraying out from the top rad pipe. Changed the jubilee clip and solved it, guessed once its up to temp the coupling must have swollon and stopped it leaking until it built up pressure. Seems to be running ok, but I have noticed a very tiny amount of steam coming out the exhaust after a 30min run. put my had over the exaust while running and my hand becomes damp......this points to the head gasket doesn't it...? do a compression test also for peace of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 I thought I had solved the problem this morning, started the engine up cold and looked under the bonnet and coolant was spraying out from the top rad pipe. Changed the jubilee clip and solved it, guessed once its up to temp the coupling must have swollon and stopped it leaking until it built up pressure. Seems to be running ok, but I have noticed a very tiny amount of steam coming out the exhaust after a 30min run. put my had over the exaust while running and my hand becomes damp......this points to the head gasket doesn't it...? did you bleed it right also, you dont have any air trapped in system do you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 no I had it running parked on a slope with the front of the car up and let all the bubbles come out, kept topping it up until no more bubbles. There is no other reason for steam in the exhaust is there, not after about 20 mins of driving anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 no I had it running parked on a slope with the front of the car up and let all the bubbles come out, kept topping it up until no more bubbles. There is no other reason for steam in the exhaust is there, not after about 20 mins of driving anyway. What's the latest on this Jackso, BHG or no BHG? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Thought I would close this off for future ref. It wasn't the head gasket. I now have a new water pump, new cambelt and cambelt tensioner done at the same time. Compression test came back all very good (all readings between 170 and 180), no oil in the water and no water in the oil. Got my valve stem seals changed at the same time as I was getting the puff of oil smoke on start up which is now gone. All work done by Supraloopy as always Result = perfect running car once again Lesson learned = Go to someone who knows supras and not a garage in southwoodford with smart cars lined up outside wanting to charge me £1500 for a new head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest niteryder Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Another lesson, listen to the advice of those with real experience. i.e. Chris Wilson he diagnosed this ages ago, he is very rarely wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Err, I wouldn't go so far as to say that.... But thanks, you are very kind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 Thought I would bump this up again......hot weather drive = overheated again. Not loosing any coolant but still over heating..... Any ideas? Block test and compression test were fine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 What makes you say it's overheating? Stock gauge in the red? Datalogging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Perhaps a faulty water temp sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 The guage goes into the red and I can hear the coolant boiling if I open the bonnet. I changed the water temp sensor last year too as the old one bust off the plug when I took it out the hard pipe. I have ordered a sniff tester so I can do the test myself and watch the results. Looking at how these work on youtube (as I haven't used one) I am guessing I need to take a bit of coolant out to leave space at the top of the rad to suck air from with the hand pump, otherwise I will be sucking coolant up...right? One thing that does spring to mind, I went up a pretty steep hill and then through the blackwall tunnel, so up and down.....so could maybe be an airlock? How can I check for this? I jacked the front end right up when I last changed the coolant and had the hot air on full with the engine running untol no bubbles were left, is there anything else I can do? maybe reve the engine higher to circulate when jacked up? would that help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastnfurious Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 had this exact same problem earlier and apparently spotted a hairline crack on the radiator top FRP piece, got this replaced together with the long O-ring, back in action! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 How can I check the rad for leaks? It is bone dry everywhere, no drips or wet/damp engine bay areas so I am really stumped. I am going to try an dbleed the rad again as I am hoping this is an airlock. I remembered when I went up the slope the the dartford bridge last year after changing the heater matrix it started over heating, then when I went down the other side it went back to normal temp. I tred bleeding then but no air came out. Hopefully this is just a sign that there is air in the system. Is there any better way to bleed the system other than drive to heat it up, then jack up the front, heaters on full and hope the air finds its way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I read in one of your other threads that you have a new viscous coupling to go on. I would suggest you get that on first as you have it anyway and then at least you can eliminate that. You should be able to change that over in less than half an hour tops. The sympton of temperature fluctuation when on a steep slope sounds strange, air lock maybe yes, impeller on the water pump loose maybe, or sludge in the system somewhere that moves and blocks or restricts some flow somehwere also worth considering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 I wouldn't think there is sludge in the system the amount of times I flushed it out last year when trying to fix this problem. Dave (supraloopy) flushed it out when he had it last year too. The water pump was a new toyota one last year too so shouldn't be a problem with that. I will change the vicous fan. Strange thing is I drove the car again last night, only for around 20 mins, but no over heating again. The heater in the car doesn't get very hot, but I put that down to the aftermarket heater matrix I put in (reviewed somewhere on here) as it had been said it doesn't get at hot. Not sure how it doesn't get as hot as its only a metal case that still contains the same coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 thats what killed the sparkplug cover then, i knew it was not our fault lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 haha. It didn't over heat then It only got too hot the very first time I came to you, remember I said I think I had air in the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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