Durandal Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 My check engine light and MIL came on while I was out for a drive accompanied by my engine bogging down, exhaust got louder and first turbo wants to come online at 2k RPM instead of 2.5-3. I checked the codes today and there was none. Would this mean that my problem was probably an electrical connection at the ECU and they cleared themselves. I thought it was probably going to come up as a missfire from a bad spark plug or a really bad boost leak in the intercooler piping but with no codes I'm going to have to test everything I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 Pulled all my spark plugs today, and they were all soot black so I cleaned them with a wire brush and some brake cleaner (they are iridiums with less then 10k on them). I tested my intercooler piping with a homemade boost tester and it wasn't leaking. Took the car for a drive after resetting the ECU. It started up cold at 2500 RPM and slowly came back down to around 1800. While driving I noticed when the clutch is pushed in the revs bounce from 1000 to 2000 continulously. (An ongoing problem that comes and goes that i've been trying to solve) Come back to the house and right before I shut it down the MIL and CEL come on. I shut it off thinking that I will have a code that will point me in the right direction. Put my paper clip in and turn the key and my CEL light isn't flashing just on solid with my "SLIP Cont off" light flashing. 30 mins later I try to check the codes and the CEL light is flashing steady telling me there is no codes. I start looking into my electrical system checking the plugs at the ECU which look fine, they are tight and none of the pins are bent. (The car is pretty much stock) Upon looking at the large bundle of wires that come through the firewall from the ECU I find this. http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/4527/img0623u.jpg There four wires (3 black and red stripe one and 1 thicker black one all spliced into one black and red wire and also another 2 wires spliced into 1 where the blue electrical tape is. That's not standard I'm assuming? I had a greddy emanage ultimate that I used to have hooked up only for the speed limit removal and speedo adjustment for bigger rims. I disconnected it awhile ago trying to eliminate possible problems while troubleshooting but it wasn't the problem. I'm thinking I could hook it back up and use it to datalog some data to troubleshoot with although I've never used that datalogging part of the EMU, hoping its straight forward. Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 Took the electrical tape off the wires in the picture and found a metal crimp connections. I crimped them a little tighter incase they were lose and fired the car up. it won't idle past 500 and usually stays around 300 almost stalling. Car drove fine except the lack of and idle. Right when i get home again and shift it in to neutral and put on the parking brake my CEL and MIL and Slip Cont Off lights come on and the car bogs down shaking and sounds like its misfiring. Shut it off and try to check my codes but once again with the paperclip in it just has a solid CEL, MIL and a flashing slip cont off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 This time it happened on the highway when I was in 6th gear and stepped on it. I pulled over and checked what my ox1 sensor was reading and it was bouncing from 0.1 to 0.95 when it usually bounces from 0.1 to 0.8, so it's running rich. It wouldn't be a bad O2 sensor though where it's still reading across the whole range, it's just telling me I have a rich problem right? When I checked my spark plugs they were all black so that would rule out the fault of one coil pack failing or one injector sticking open correct? Which leaves me with a coolant temp sensor as the suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 (edited) Pulled the Ox1 sensor today and here's what it looked like. http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/774/img0625h.jpg http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/462/img0626i.jpg I don't know whether I should stick it in a lemon or just a buy a new one and throw it in while I have it off. The part# on it is: 89465-14170 ND 065500-7681 11N (93 JDM GTE) I'm kind of confused whereas Nic had posted that the JDM oxygen sensor part# is: 89465-19635 The other option is, I have a brand new innovative wideband AFR guage that comes with a new oxygen sensor. If I hook my EMU back up, how easy is it to wire this in? "The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and 0.1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two (brown) is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR." This is out of the manual for the wideband. I guess I could hook it up as a narrowband? Edited July 18, 2010 by Durandal (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) Cleaned the oxygen sensor in lemon juice to see if it made it a little better, that way I would know it was the oxygen sensor. Went to put the oxygen sensor back on and sheared the stud that had completely come out off. I managed to thread it in at such and angle that the stud itself is wedging that side of the o2 sensor tight. No exhaust leaking by it that I can feel or hear. However I still have a really bad rich idle problem and no codes. Its to the point now where I won't even take it for a drive because it starts up rich right from cold start. Could my FPR have gone bad and how would I test that? Also could I have screwed up my ECU by mucking around with my odo cluster without disconnecting the battery? I always think on the control side of things but could this be something like leaking valve cover gaskets? The spark plugs did seemed a little oily. Edited July 19, 2010 by Durandal (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Do you still have a cat fitted? Of so is it blocked/ shifted/ loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 both cats are still in place. I'll check to see if it's moving around though. I need to also check my FPR in case it isn't recirculating extra fuel back to the gas tank. But my expectation are lying on the stock ECU going bad. It would explain some of the random inconsistencies and why sometimes I can't read codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 I went to check my fuel regulator when i start up there is vacuum to it. I found a small hole in the vacuum line to the fuel regulator underneath that windey plastic protector, so I cut that part of the tubing off let it idle up and took it for a drive. I thought I had fixed it and no doubt fixed some of my old idling problems but mid drive all of a sudden the car staggers engine light and triangle come on and my revs drop to 0 if I push the clutch in. Get back home and try to see if I got a code but once again I get a solid non blinking engine light and a slip cont off light flashing. Is that suppose to mean anything particular like "fried ecu" or something. I'm sure I could solve the problem if I knew what a flashing slip cont off light combined with CEL refusing to to allow me to read codes meant. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 After fixing the hole in the regulator and finding a loose speed sensor wire from my ODO to my ECU, it's improved some. When the car gets up to temperature idling around 1100 RPM my check engine light and MIL come on with a flash slip cont off light. I checked my O2 sensor with a volt meter and was getting 0.85 vdc constant! So this means my O2 sensor is bad but I'm still confused to as why I can't read my codes. Now trying to get a stock oxygen sensor for a JDM supra in Canada might be a little tricky. Where do you guys in Europe get yours? Just a local mr T dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durandal Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Well it wasn't the O2 sensor but at long last I figured it out. It was something stupid after all, the battery. The battery wasn't holding a charge above 12.15 vdc. If you charged it up and left it disconnected for 5 minutes, it would always drop down to that voltage. I'm guessing that when it dipped too low while driving, I would eventually get a misfire which triggered limp home mode and maybe at that point the voltage was too low to store a code. I've never had a battery fail only that much. In my experience they would fail and not be able to be charged over around 9 vdc. It was an optima red top. Just glad I figured it out and it wasn't a fried ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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