pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 2 weeks ago, my car was running perfectly fine , with double decat, and 1B restrictor ring Since then, I have fitted a HKS FCD, an AEM boost controller, and a Walbro fuel pump. When I took the car for a test run after fitting the above; it would stall intermittently when moved from P into N,D,2, and L. I removed the FCD and boost controller With FCD and boost controller removed, any attempt to drive the car would cause it to judder and stall; on restarting the car I get a dark puff of smoke which would indicate a rich mixture. I have tested; - the o2 sensor - engine temp sensor - throttle position sensors - replaced the ECU - cleaned out the throttle body - cleaned out the idle control valve Any ideas?? It just seems strange that it will idle perfectly fine and rev smootly through the range until you put it into gear. Am getting really frustrated I just want to reiterate that the car was running fine before mods, and has been over the last 3 years. Could it be an issue with the fuel pump? pressure too high and not bypassing back to the tank? Any comments very much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossco Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 My auto went through a phase of stalling 4 or so years ago. I had the throttle body cleaned as it was black inside and also replaced the air fiter. I cleaned out the pipe that it connected to and all has been well ever since. I dont know if it was the air filter or throttle body that caused the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Yeah, I just had a read of your old thread. I have had the throttle body off and given it a good clean, my air filter is only a couple of months old too - a real head scratcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Well I have just been out for a short drive, I tested the box through all the gears. It may be that the original stalling/running rough may have been the ECU relearning, or its just an intermittent fault which did'nt seem to occur this time round. What I have found is, that the car will drive fine in L, 2, and R. When D is engaged, the car will drive smoothly up until gearchange. When changing up or down, the engine feels like its being starved of either air or fuel. Given the dark cloud on restarting, i'm saying its air. I'm assuming this is an issue with the sub throttle assembly; maybe the motor is holding the butterfly shut for too long etc. Anyone heard of this? Thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Just for test purposes, and maybe to give me enough steam to get it up to THOR, Would it be okay for me to just unplug the TRAC butterfly motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Bump-diddly-ump http://http://bxtr.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/mustache-_0006_ned-flanders.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) I always thought it was best to remove the stock TRAC as it will probably just end up killing you rather than saving your life Edited July 3, 2010 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Yeah, I bought a few bits off of a guy who wrote his sup off because of the TCS. I do always have it switched off, but it serves a 2nd purpose on the auto. I have since read that alot of people just removed the whole assembly to give more aggressive gearchanges with the autobox. Think i'll just disconnect it and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pezzler Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 Just incase anyone stumbles on this in the future; I had my car delivered to thor racing yesterday. They were able to diagnose and rectify the problem within an hour.. Basically the 12v feed into the ECU which controls the main EFI relay (pin 31 on the single multi-plug), had a bad connection. Someone ([OOPS][/OOPS]) must have been a bit rough with the wire, and caused it a bit of a mischief. One of their engineers was able to source a replacement section of wire with a decent crimp on it; he fitted that into the multi-plug, soldered it in to loom, and the car was running fine. I'd like to add that although i'm a "hav-a-go-er", somethings are best left to the professionals. I was tearing my hair out trying to figure out what had caused this problem, and they sorted it in an hour.... ....Oh, and since visiting there today; i'm very much interested in the v8 supercharged conversion I spoke to them about :eyebrows: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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