JohnA Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 I had a couple of hours available today and thought, "wot the feck, let's swap those rear discs that we failed to swap a couple of weeks ago, now that we have the tip about using the two screws in the threaded holes of the old discs." How arrogant was I, miscalculating corrosion It is next to impossible to get the pins out. This time I was better prepared for battle, with small/big/bigger hammers, punches, the lot. WD40 carefully all over the dodgy bits of the caliper, again and again. It needed serious force punching to even get the pins moving. The problem is that the pins are made of soft metal, so the more you punch, the more they deform at the back and then they won't fit to get out through the hole. One pin looked like it would play ball (eventually) but the other one would only move a couple of millimetres and then, badly deformed won't budge any more. Using a punch doesn't help too much because it just draws itself inside the pin In the end I had to put everything back together and admit defeat YET again. For one, I need to have a new set of pins available next time, these ones will be kaput. I am afraid that I'll crack the calipers with the sort of force I have to use (and they still won't budge) Any hints will be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 First I'd try a punch thats just a hairs thickness smaller than the pin so there's less chance of it drawing in. If that didn't work I'd drill them out (carefully). HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 You could try cutting them in half - that might let you get each bit out easier with some mole grips or whatever? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 2, 2005 Author Share Posted June 2, 2005 I wasn't thinking destructively up to now, but maybe that's what I'll have to do (after I have a set of new ones on the side, obviously!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupraboy2 Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 are these the caliper bolts that hold the calipers on to the bracket? or the Pins in the pad? as mine have always come undone not a problem, but everyone else has problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 Best to press them out, find somewhere/someone with a small hydraulic press. Cutting may be an option but Toyota tried this with mine and it made no difference. Repeated blows with a punch results in them mushrooming out at the ends. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 I drill them out. I now quote on a UK pad change with the caveat that it could be a lot extra if the pins are seized. To drill them out successfully though they need to be off the car and clamped to a milling machine table... PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 You could try cutting them in half - that might let you get each bit out easier with some mole grips or whatever? mole grips have been of no use whatsoever, even with the pin head sticking out a few more millimetres ...Repeated blows with a punch results in them mushrooming out at the ends. Paul yeah, tell me about it To drill them out successfully though they need to be off the car and clamped to a milling machine table... PITA. That's what I'm thinking now: get the calipers off and work on them on the bench. Is it just new washers for the banjo bolts needed, or is it more? New brake fluid too ---> is it DOT 5.1 that's best for them Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 You don't *NEED* new washers, but it's nice practice to change them, I'd be amazed if they didn't seal when re used though. I use and recommend Motul RB600 fluid, or if the budget is huge, Castrol SRF. I sell these, they are any none silicone based old fluid compatible, and have a much higher boiling point than ordibary fluids, although a branded basic DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid is fine for road usage. I can do a grat price on Motul stuff. http://www.motul.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 My typing is getting terrible, must be the keyboard.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 So how much is the RB600 fluid Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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