SIMON LC Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Gotta change front brake pads soon on my J Spec TT .Its got J Spec brakes and not UK Spec.Anybody recommend a decent pad that dont cost the earth.I dont drive her too hard but would like something decent that dont fade too much.Was thinking perhaps OEM Pads the way to go.Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Chris Wilson fast road dude, you won't go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Its possibly not been changed in years so do a fluid change as well as fitting new pads, if you use a suction bleed it'll only take 30 mins to do. Motul RBF600 brake fluid:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Chris Wilson fast road dude, you won't go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra steveo Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Its possibly not been changed in years so do a fluid change as well as fitting new pads, if you use a suction bleed it'll only take 30 mins to do. Motul RBF600 brake fluid:) havent done this yet, and iam canny scared to, is it hard ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Chris Wilson fast road dude, you won't go wrong. yeah i hear there the best too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Sachs Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 CW fast road pads for me too. Maybe upgrade to braded hoses at the same time, I noticed a considerable difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 havent done this yet, and iam canny scared to, is it hard ? Its not hard to do if you have the correct tools but if your unsure its best to get a local garage to do it, as long as you have a good local garage ofcourse ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Porterfield r4 are also very good, more of a race pad though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra steveo Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Its not hard to do if you have the correct tools but if your unsure its best to get a local garage to do it, as long as you have a good local garage ofcourse ! like learning to do it my self tho , any one got a "how to" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprab1 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 like learning to do it my self tho , any one got a "how to" Yeah i'd also be interested to know. At least you know its done & what went in to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Porterfield r4 are also very good, more of a race pad though. Porterfield R4S, best pads i have had and unlike the R4 are a street pad, taken from their site R4-S – The performance street pad, this pad offers the least dust and squeal of any of the street pads we carry. It is very rotor friendly and will last as long as your stock pad but typically they last a little bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrikbrunt Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I've got some new pads coming this week, if I remember i'll take a few pickies while changing them, and do a brief how-to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra steveo Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 (edited) pads and discs are easy, its the fluid change and bleeding i am interested in dont really want to mix new oil with the crap that is in the car at the minute either, is there a way to do it like that ? in other words drop the whole capacity ? i could change to braided lines then to Edited June 20, 2010 by supra steveo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrikbrunt Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 ahh yes this is something i'd be interested in too, have never been sure how you ensure all the old stuff is out before putting in the fresh, to avoid contamination... Do you just bleed out all the old fluid from each line/caliper until its dry, and then put in new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 (edited) You use the new brake fluid to push out the old, it will be very obvious when you get the new fluid all the way through the brake lines. The easiest way is a vaccuum bleeder, you attach this to the bleed nipple on the caliper, keep the master cylinder topped up with new fluid, open the bleed nipple and the vacuum draws the new fluid through the brake line and through the caliper, repeat this on all the calipers. Motul RBF600 is very good, heres the info on it Motul RBF 600 Factory Line racing brake fluid Qty: 1 x 500ml Normal Price inc vat: £14.10 ex vat: £12.00 Motul RBF600 Factory Line brake fluid is a 100% synthetic brake fluid particularly suitable for the demands of racing and for those requiring a high performance brake fluid. This high performance DOT 4 brake fluid is particularly suitable for race applications and exceeds the DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 standards, except for viscosity at - 40°C (-40°F). RBF 600 has extreme thermal resistance and stability. The very high boiling point (312°C / 593°F) of this brake fluid is better than conventional DOT 5.1 brake fluids and enables effective braking even under extreme conditions. With its very high wet boiling point (216°C / 420°F), RBF 600 is also great in the rain. RBF600 is superior to conventional DOT 5.1 brake fluid (180°C / 356°F min) and DOT 4 (155°C / 311°F min) brake fluid. RBF 600 brake fluid is suitable for all types of hydraulic actuated-brake and clutch systems requiring a non-silicone synthetic fluid. RBF600 is specially designed to resist the high temperature of racing brake (steel or carbon) and clutch system RBF 600 Factoryline brake fluid meets standards: FMVSS 116 DOT 4 SAE J 1703 100% synthetic brake fluid from polyglycol bases. Very high dry boiling point of 312 °C / 593 °F Very high wet boiling point 216 °C / 420 °F Edited June 20, 2010 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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