Removing brake discs

[BK1]

I've spent a couple of days struggling with seized nuts and bolts, trying to remove a brake disc to replace a broken wheel stud.

I've read all the old posts and tried all of the suggestions except one. There was a post a few years ago suggesting attaching M8 bolts, but I couldn't get my head around what exactly was meant.

The Soop looks pathetic up on axle stands, the weather's on the up, so any further help would be great.

[bignum]

In some discs there`s 2 threaded holes near the stud holes, screw 2 bolts in and it pushes the disc off the hub, also spray some penatrating oil like plusgas around the flange to help.

[Terminator]

In some discs there`s 2 threaded holes near the stud holes, screw 2 bolts in and it pushes the disc off the hub, also spray some penatrating oil like plusgas around the flange to help.

 

 

Stock discs have drill and threaded holes as standard.

[bignum]

Stock discs have drill and threaded holes as standard.

Thought they did but couldn`t be sure:)

[Scott]

If this is on the rear you need to wind the handbrake shoes in.

[BK1]

Thanks everybody, already slacked off the handbrake adjuster, it was the bit about the M8 bolts on a previous thread that I was unsure of. Had a message from another member who explained it quite clearly, I've got some bolts, so will have a go a.s.a.p.

 

Then all I need to do is get the broken stud replaced.

If it's not standard, any suggestions where's best to get a replacement?

[BK1]

Sorted, disc off, tapped the broken stud out, got a new stud from Toyota, fitted and put everything back.

There seems to be some movement between the discs and the hub when I turn the wheels by hand, as if the holes that the studs go through are over sized or something. I've tightened the wheel nuts pretty well (not torqued though).

Anybody come across this?

[Hoppy]

Did you have this movement before you took the wheel off? and did you only change one stud?

 

Once the wheel is tightned up, the disc should sit tight against the hub, just like the wheel should sit tight against the disc. If you've got movement on the disc, you should have movement on the wheel also. This would normally point towards loose wheel nuts.

[BK1]

Only replaced one stud, there was no movement between the hub and the disc when dismantling, but the disc was stuck fast to the hub and only came free when I used the trick with two M8 bolts.

[BK1]

I've just read something suggesting that lubricating wheel nuts can affect the torque on wheel nuts, making it difficult to tighten everything up. I haven't torqued the nuts, but they're as tight as I can manage without extending my wheel brace.

[BK1]

I've only had the car two weeks and thought that I'd take off the wheels to clean 'em and while they were off, just see what sort of condition the brakes were in.

The wheel nuts were the tightest I've come across and I'm wondering if the guy who had the car before had done this to get around the issue of movement between the disc and the hub.

Because the wheels are after market alloys, they have cone nuts for fitting.

Has anyone else had issues like this with cone nuts?

[Hoppy]

The M8 bolt trick should'nt make any difference to be honest mate.The re-fitted disc should still sit tight against the hub, just as before.The only difference now will be the disc is no longer seized to the hub, as it's recently been removed.

 

Check that the disc is sitting tight against the face of the hub, and that there's nothing getting in the way.

 

I've always used a little copper grease on my wheel studs, and i've never had a problems with the wheel nuts coming loose.Once the wheel nuts are semi tight, the disc should be pretty tight against the hub, so the disc should only move when the hub moves.

[BK1]

Really puzzling me, never seen this on any of my previous cars.

Too late to think any more about it, I'll see how the nuts are in the morning and maybe if I can get them a little tighter the problem will disappear.

That way at least I can go for a bit of a cruise to celebrate Fathers' day

 

Thanks for your input

[Hoppy]

Use a torque wrench if possible to tighten the nuts.You don't want to over tighten them, otherwise you'll back to square one i.e needing more wheel studs.

 

Personally, if my disc still felt loose when my wheel nuts were fully tightend, i definately would'nt use my car untill this issue was sorted.Always better to be safe than sorry.Especially when it comes to potential brake or wheel issues.

 

Good luck

[Swampy442]

+1 If theres any doubt with your brakes dont drive your car. Re the wheel/disc thing its how pretty much all cars work, that tiny little screw that you see on discs only locates it on the hub, it doesnt secure the disc as such, that job is done by the torque of the wheel nuts.

[BK1]

Sorted, turns out it was all down to me painting the centre of the discs. Some paint had gone through the holes where the studs go (only a couple of drips) and dried. When I scraped this out and rubbed it down everything was fine. Definitely worth checking for paint, rust flakes or any debris before reassembling.