Drift/Track single turbo 6 speed

[David Reid]

To the mods please move to the projects section

 

I didn’t initially plan to build a supra, I was going to use the 2JZ GTE in another car, 200sx or Porsche 944, the plan was to build something for myself that was a lot more bolt together than the S15.3 but could be used as a back up car if that ever had any issues (when its finished).

 

For those who don’t know my previous cars:-

 

This was my last grass track car (SR20DET powered on standalone management):-

 

http://www.magix-photos.com/mpfw01/10/BD/39/CC/A0/758A11DBB2616238C3D968AA/BD39F3B0758A11DBB5CFB3B6C3D968AA.jpg

 

S13 SR20 built and co ownered with Jeffers which competed in EDC 08:-

 

 

The RB30SC S15.3 again co owned with Jeffers, currently 95% complete and just waiting to be finished:-

 

 

The S13 for me was great fun, it was built on a budget relatively quickly and although not hugely competitive in EDC great fun especially even when I crashed it at the SXOC hill climb whilst trying to drift it, Santapod was also good.

 

The S15 has taken so much time and money so far its lost all the fun aspect of building cars for me and is so expensive and has so many one off bits on it I dread it ever getting damaged. So I basically wanted a car built quickly like the s13 but more powerful.

 

To get started I bought myself from here a very badly crash damaged UK spec TT auto. When I got it home I had a good look around it and was impressed with the aluminium suspension arms ect and grew to really like the shape, so decided to build a supra as it stuck with my easy to build bolt together theme and is slightly original.

 

 

The bit I was after, not bad for £650, I bought it non running but 30 minutes spent cutting out the immobiliser had it going.

 

 

As you can see the shell I had was irreparable, hard front and rear damage. So I started looking for a good shell, I managed to find a shell minus front end panels from Jezz on the here, it turned out to be a J spec Manual TT making things easier as it had the correct trans tunnel.

 

 

 

 

I hope to add better pics latter

 

 

I had originally planned quite a big building including a internal and external repaint, but due to buying a new house project (garage still not built) I have had to cut the budget so it will be going together with all standard body panels in the standard silver.

 

I managed to get the missing front end panels in the right colour from the here.

 

And a bumper from ebay for £1

 

 

 

As the car will be track driven safety is my main priority so 1st major job was to strip the interior out ready for the cage.

 

Unfortunately no pics as I just wanted to get on

 

Once everything was out I stripped the sound deadening out with a hammer and chisel then cleaned up the remainder using white spirit. A bit more weight gone.

 

Then I deviated from the bolt together theme as I couldn’t find a bolt in cage, so went a bit over the top and fitted a multipoint weld in cage (kit supplied by Fabricage Thankyou).

 

Cage is BDC/EDC/Time attack compliant, 45mm main hoop, 6 point with crossed rear hoop, crossed door bars, diagonal in roof and trnsmission brace. Only the 3rd cage I have done but came out really nicely all welds are tigged and I managed to get it very close to the car.

 

While everything was out I took the opportunity to remove the AC matrix which weighs a good few Kg. I have opted to live with the standard heater system for the moment as the majority of it is plastic and weighs very little and I don’t intend to stop drifting if it gets wet.

 

I am surprised just how heavy the bare dash is. I it’s a future item to look at for getting weight out of the car but for the moment its back in to get the car working

 

Side

[David Reid]

Rear

[David Reid]

Roof bar

 

Dash back in with new dished wheel

 

 

Sourced some side mount seats and side mounts + supra seat brackets.

 

 

Seat In

 

 

All door cars speakers bracket, carpet is in the bin

 

 

ABS is also in the bin.

 

I am really surprised how much weighty tat there is in the supra the interior parts weighed a huge amount and all the additional plating on the front end. I’ll be interested to weigh it when I am finished.

[David Reid]

Initially I opted for an R154 and even bought a new bellhousing but after looking at the cost of uprated clutch and flywheel decided to sell the r154 and go getrag 6 speed I then managed to source a good used triple plate clutch for £200, which was cheaper than I was going to spend on the R154 + the gearstick would have been in the wrong place.

 

Pedals and were missing from the shell and sourced from the supra forum again, and bought a brand new clutch master cylinder for £80 from the states.

 

I’ll have the standard auto prop shortened when I get the engine in.

 

While the engine was out I stripped off the aircon, had the intake manifold and rocker covers and various other bits powder coated satin black. I replaced the notiously leaky rocker cover gaskets and rocker link pipes before adding a manual spigot bearing and mating to the six speed. I also bought an uprated radiator and silicon hoses to replace the damaged ones I had.

 

I didn’t want the twin set up so sourced myself a precision turbo (not sure exact model) but its big enough. Being UK spec the engine already has 550 cc injecotrs so my plan is to max these out and get drifting before adding more power.

 

Before the engine could go in the oil feeds needed sorting out. The spare was blanked and loctited in.

 

 

Then a new feed hose made using the remaining oil feed

 

 

I modified the stock oil return to use JIC fitting and had a suitable hose made:-

 

 

 

Engine back in

 

 

New silicon hoses and radiator

 

 

4 bolt rear fitting which I need to make a downpipe for:-

 

 

 

I have both HKS (both a bit big) and some unbranded external gate but need to get around to fitting one of them which will be a pain as I have to cut and shut the manifold.

 

I need to get one of these

 

HKS Gate

 

XS Power gate

 

 

On here

 

[bignum]

Nice project.

[Steve]

Moved to Projects Section.

 

Normal project section rules apply.

 

Can you please upload all your pictures to the forum rather than linking them from Photobucket. Thanks.

Edited June 9, 2010 by Steve (see edit history)

[jimojameso]

Good work!!

[evinX]

Nice project!

[steady_dave]

Nice, Subscribed!

[Swampy442]

Really nice build, quality work That Pug must have shifted!

[Jamesy]

Sounds like a great build there mate. Look forward to seeing the progress

[Ricky49]

Nice project keep the updates and pics coming.

[David Reid]

Really nice build, quality work That Pug must have shifted!

 

It wasn't shy . I kept it tucked away in my gargae until recently, but it had to be sold with my GTR to fund the new house. I hope the supra should be as fun. I have never driven a stand one and will go straight to 500+ hp hopefuly.

 

I have another update,but the mods have asked me to upload pics to the forum. I'll have a go and try and gets pics up at lunch.

 

Glad you like it I wasn't sure how it would go down.

[David Reid]

Next update

 

For the moment I just want to get out and drifting, long term I will remake the front bottom arms and make some modified hubs but for now its just coil over and diff and some suitable dishy wheels.

 

Coilovers are from BC racing and look good:-

 

 

Front brakes are upgraded using LS400 4 pots, nothing special but they cost me £50 where as the UK spec 4 pots would cost £500. Calipers are aluminium so improves brakes and saves some more weight.

 

 

Rear I am just using standard J spec but with Hydro wand (one of my best toys in the s13)

 

One of the things I want to get right as I am not going to run any non stock aero is the stance and wheel fitment.

 

Wheels are blitz technospeed 9.5*18 ET12, I am using 225/40/18 front 235/40/18 rear for the stretch look.

 

 

The pics below are the wheel on with no spacers

 

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz15/davidreid69/Supra%20build/IMG_0100.jpg]</p><p> </p><p> I am thinking they look a little week though so tried 20mm spacer on the back</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> I think with a little roll that will be about, whats does evyone think?</p><p> </p><p> Front with +20mm</p><p> </p><p> [img]http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz15/davidreid69/Supra%20build/IMG_0106.jpg

 

No so impressed with the front +20mm looks too much in my opinion, I am thinking +15mm + roll and stretch. What do you think?

Edited June 11, 2010 by David Reid (see edit history)

[Guest troy_supra]

Nice project! I like supra in drifting

[Jamesy]

Are you putting overfenders on with those wheels mate? if not looked perfect before the spacers.

[David Reid]

No no overfenders, just the edge of the rims 5-10mm out of the arch with the arch tightly flared over the stretch tyre. I think you'll like it when its done

[David Reid]

Talking of wheels the 15mm spacers arrived and I threid them on the front

 

Current weak lock

Current arch gap

Now I am happy with the fitment I'll roll the arches to suit one evening

[David Reid]

Small update

 

I took the front turbo housing off to measure the the turbine wheel so that hopefully Stav can identify the turbo I have. Also found this stamp

 

 

Exhuast housing is 70mm

 

Also got bored and polised up the headlights before

 

After

Before

After

[David Reid]

Fitting the hydraulic handbrake

 

As I am as yet not clear if the car is going to be track only I wanted to retain the stock handbrake. But with it in place I couldn’t find anywhere comfortable to mount the Hydro.

 

 

Solution:- Move the handbrake over to the LHD position (threaded mounting holes already exist)

 

 

 

The dash had to be cut to create cleanance:-

 

 

Fitted on left side (sorry for crap pic)

 

 

I then made up a 2.5mm shaped plate and welded it in as a base

 

 

Trial fitting

 

 

 

Add some paint

 

 

Home made brake lines in and P clipped

 

I then added these

 

 

Then attempted to bleed the brakes (all lines but 1 have been replaced by my own and ABS removed).

 

The clutch bleed fine, then onto the brakes and typically the only line I didn’t replace leaked, so I remade that.

 

After 5 minutes of bleeding all is good and the hydro is rock solid.

[David Reid]

Right a small update

 

Now my car is low and wide I really dont like the original mirrors so I found some that suit the low fat look from the States

 

Big Box:-

 

 

Getting there

 

 

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Real carbon no fake shizzle

 

 

 

No pictures of them on yet, saving fitting them until I have rolled the arches this weekend

[David Reid]

Also need to get on with the exhaust:-

 

*Insert drawing pic here*

 

3inch V band fitting off ebay

 

 

Laser cut flange to suit turbo

 

 

Look at the quality of the cut zero finishing to do:-

 

 

 

How they should look when I get my TIG welding rods:-

 

 

I'll grind the die grind the inside to make the adaptor conical once welded

 

I then picked up a 3" to downpipe to suit

 

 

3" decat

 

 

 

Decided to use the HKS gate, this is the flange cut to suite as it didnt come with one.

 

So needed something to go on here:-

 

 

So had this cut:-

 

[David Reid]

Right a big update to bring the thread up to date with the car

 

Differential, 1st job was to remove the original torsen diff to fit the 2 way:-

 

 

Empty casing:-

 

 

Then diff in and out multiple times grinding shims then its finally in:-

 

 

Cover back on ready to fit:-

 

[David Reid]

Exhaust

 

1st job was to finish the adaptor plate by welding it together, 1st it was tacked and trialled in place

 

 

 

It fitted fine so it was fully welded

 

 

Next was the wastegate fitting, I had to change the flange to suit my HKS 60mm gate and re-angle it to clear everything. New flange and problem with manifold below:-

 

On here

Then strip the manifold off to start the cutting and welding

 

I forgot to get a picture of it finished but after much trialling it fitted and this is it back on (its in there somewhere):-

 

 

Then the EGT sensor was fitted in the runner for cylinder 6 (hottest cylinder) as close to the port as possible. This is the point I will apply a 850 degree temperature limit to ensure I don’t melt anything (i.e exhaust valves, turbo wheels):

 

 

The 3 inch V band down pipe

 

Downpipe itted also showing the location of the wideband Lambda sensor:-

 

 

I then fitted the decat and 4inch free flow exhausr

.

[David Reid]

I then sourced an OE viscous fan and cowl and fitted the sender for the Greddy water temp gauge in the top hose and finished the engine bay off with a shiny strut brace

 

 

I also needed a catch tank, being limited for space (which will be changing when I do away with the AFM) I fitted a temporary catch tank.