ray007 Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 man i am really having a bad month, As some of you may know Ryan got my 1jz conversion fired up last monday. Unfortunately shortly after he left the car just cut out. Started it up again with a booster pack, then disconnected the booster and within a few minutes the engine cut off again, tried again a few times and same prob, especially when using other electrics such as headlight. I thought the problem is the alternator as it had one from the n/a, so got it replaced...still same problem. Then i bought a 1jz alternator, still same problem, then changed the battery, still same problem, then tried another alternator just to make sure, and guess what? still the same prob. Even when i charge the battery for a while, it will run for a few minutes and even go around the block, but within a few minutes the power seems to drain out? seems to me the car runs purely off the battery, alternator doesn't seem to be charging Any advice what this could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 What's the voltage across the battery when running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supracars Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 mate stick a volt meter across the battery before you start the car should be around 12v ish then start the car let it idle the voltage should rise a bit higher around 13v ish and then rev the car the voltage will rise to a higher figure than idle probably 14v ish if this dont happen or your voltage drops when revving your car is not charging the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Main alternator fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 What's the voltage across the battery when running? mate stick a volt meter across the battery before you start the car should be around 12v ish then start the car let it idle the voltage should rise a bit higher around 13v ish and then rev the car the voltage will rise to a higher figure than idle probably 14v ish if this dont happen or your voltage drops when revving your car is not charging the battery. im gana check it out later hopefully, a few people also advised the same cheers:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Main alternator fuse? checked it, did look a little dodgy but still intact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Did you try the voltmeter Ray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Did you try the voltmeter Ray? will do in a few hours hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 ray make sure you have once started 12v on all 3 wires in the plug, they tell the alternator to charge i had the same problem on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 ray make sure you have once started 12v on all 3 wires in the plug, they tell the alternator to charge i had the same problem on mine. thanks bud just as i read this ryan g just phoned me, said the same thing and advised if one of them dont have 12v then i should join that one with one of the others, is that what you did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 thanks bud just as i read this ryan g just phoned me, said the same thing and advised if one of them dont have 12v then i should join that one with one of the others, is that what you did? In a fasion yes, i just ran a 12v supply in from the ignition and it worked, the reason i found this out is i metered my brothers supra alternator then did the same on mine and found i had 2 out of the 3 wires dead, so ran a 12v in and joined them up. Did the trick and works perfect now. You drove the car much, what clutch did you go with in the end, also what power (boost) you pushing and what you think to the power delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 If it helps, here are the wiring diagrams for the charging systems of the 1JZ and 2JZ engines. 2JZ: here 1JZ: here (go to page 7) A quick look reveals that each alternator has the same three connections (ignoring the main power cable) - IGN, CHARGE and SENSE. It appears that the pins in each connector are in a different order. It should be a simple change to rewire your connector to suit. The pin allocations are: SIGNAL 1JZ PIN 2JZ PIN IGN 3 2 CHARGE 2 1 SENSE 1 3 I wouldn't personally connect all the wires together. Even though they'll all be at roughly the same voltage when running, they have very different functions. You may end up over / under charging your battery, or losing the function of your alternator failure light. You could even flatten your battery when not running by energising the field coil with the ignition off. HTH Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobius Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 don,t know if this helps but good site for all of us http://www.1jz.com/tech/docs/engine_manual/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 If it helps, here are the wiring diagrams for the charging systems of the 1JZ and 2JZ engines. 2JZ: here 1JZ: here (go to page 7) A quick look reveals that each alternator has the same three connections (ignoring the main power cable) - IGN, CHARGE and SENSE. It appears that the pins in each connector are in a different order. It should be a simple change to rewire your connector to suit. The pin allocations are: SIGNAL 1JZ PIN 2JZ PIN IGN 3 2 CHARGE 2 1 SENSE 1 3 I wouldn't personally connect all the wires together. Even though they'll all be at roughly the same voltage when running, they have very different functions. You may end up over / under charging your battery, or losing the function of your alternator failure light. You could even flatten your battery when not running by energising the field coil with the ignition off. HTH Andy don,t know if this helps but good site for all of us http://www.1jz.com/tech/docs/engine_manual/ thanks guys, very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 (edited) In a fasion yes, i just ran a 12v supply in from the ignition and it worked, the reason i found this out is i metered my brothers supra alternator then did the same on mine and found i had 2 out of the 3 wires dead, so ran a 12v in and joined them up. Did the trick and works perfect now. You drove the car much, what clutch did you go with in the end, also what power (boost) you pushing and what you think to the power delivery. yep, i have the same problem as yours, two of the three wires are dead, tryed joining all them together but doesnt solve the problem. so i'm gana do as you did, Where did you run the wires through? i didnt really drive it much, about 200 yards or so, gave it some in 1st gear and blimey, i was very impressed, the engine just sounds great and it accelerates very impressively without the turbo hardly coming in, compared to my previous na-tt 5 speed and my TT6 i think im gana prefer this tbh. and i havent done any mods besides the 2nd decat and FCD. looking forward to get this on road, will hopefully be bringing it down to ace cafe...would be nice to see yours there also... havent wired up the boost gauge yet..will let you know once done. oh, and i used the same sort of clutch you sold, one from techniclutch, i just hope it holds up, not looking to do any further mods for now so hopefully it should suffice. cheers Edited June 9, 2010 by ray007 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray007 Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 In a fasion yes, i just ran a 12v supply in from the ignition and it worked, the reason i found this out is i metered my brothers supra alternator then did the same on mine and found i had 2 out of the 3 wires dead, so ran a 12v in and joined them up. Did the trick and works perfect now. You drove the car much, what clutch did you go with in the end, also what power (boost) you pushing and what you think to the power delivery. Little num i f*****g love ya... it worked, i temperarily wired up the two dead wires to the battery and the cars running fine, and i have now fallen in love with it...forget the 2jz i say, i think i much prefere the 1jz, ive had an na-tt 5speed bpu+++ and a TT6 but i still much prefer this, maybe because i feel the umph when the turbo's kick in together, i dont know what it is but love it... the thing is mental, i seem to have no rev limit also, its revving upto 8k until i let go, maybe could go further but i dont wana risk it. also the fast road clutch is holding up fine as yet, and im having second thoughts of doing a single on the vvti im waiting for and just thinking of maybe buying a single manifold for this? still need to tidy up a little, need to hook up the boost gauge and change the boot rubbers to get rid of that anoyying rattling and also need to secure my back box as its wobbling all over the place...wil have some pics and a vid up by this weekend hopefully. thank you all for your input, it is much much appreciated...it'll be nice to see you guys at the ace cafe or sumthing. cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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