paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) right then, i have been collecting suspension bits for quite a while and the purchase of 2 new back tyres has accelerated my rebuild plans as i dont want to wreck the new tyres, both my backs always had a lot of negative camber with the drivers side having noticably more than the passenger side this maybe down to the strut rod being bent, i tried to get the geo set a while back but all the cam adjusters were seized, so i decided to go with the R2 polyurethane kits, new cam adjusters and associated nuts and bolts and suck it and see as to whether any of the ball joints were shot, i'm not really bothering with shocks as theres quite a bit on here already but thought we were a bit short on the rest of the suspension components, i will post each arm /component in its own post to keep things in order as i cant be bothered with all that photobucket malarky please feel free to add anything Edited May 31, 2010 by paul mac (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Looking forward to this Paul. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Id rethink the poly bushes mate, mine wore out in short time giving me some serious handling problems, i went back to oem and alls good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 first pic shows punch to knock the ball joint out then unfortunately the angle grinder had to come out despite drowning the cam adjuster in WD40 and leaving it overnight, the fecker was siezed solid (this was a sign of things to come ) i used 1mm slitting disks in the grinder which got in the gap nicely to chop the cam bolt off, if you have never used slitting disks before they are delicate and take absolutely no lateral load, they can shatter as well so make sure you at least wear goggles or better still a full face mask, the ball joint came out pretty easy and i was amazed at its condition at 17 years old and 130 k + miles, i repacked it with molycote grease and cleaned it up and drowned it in hammerite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Id rethink the poly bushes mate, mine wore out in short time giving me some serious handling problems, i went back to oem and alls good now. i have read a lot of good things about them Jamie and the bottom line is i really cant justify the cost of a complete set of new arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Im dreading the winter season when i start attacking mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 this proved a real pain in the arse with again the cam adjuster siezed so out with the grinder again and unfortunately running short of new disks i couldn't quite get in fully with the disk so the hammer and chisel had to be deployed, first pic shows brass drift on ball joint, if you haven't got a big hammer for this go and buy one you really need some big blows, next pic shows bush in vise with a bit of heat to help it along (this was the only bush i needed heat on) be carefull with this as the packing bits can fly out of the vice at a rate of knots if your not carefull, last pic, again ball joint perfect and repacked with grease, i used some stainless lock wire on the boot (mig welding wire would do as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Paul did you just re use your old boot for the joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 i was really not sure what to do with this arm as i know its a PITA to get to and kept having Chris Wilsons voice in my head "but their spherical bearings" but first things first the ball joint had to come out and this prooved an absolute b****d, initialy i followed this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=150232&highlight=suspension+removal but despite beating the living s**t out of it i couldn't get it to budge, i modified a Halfords ball joint splitter as it was to narrow to go round the boot and also thined it down a bit, i took all rough edges of it so as not to nic the boot and it did the trick with quite a bang when the ball joint went, again the ball joint was spot on and i ragged the hell out of the upper arm with a crow bar to check the spherical bearings and they were spot on with no play so i now have a set of R2 upper arm bushs spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Paul did you just re use your old boot for the joint? yes all the boots were fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 not to tricky, this arm was noticably bent (god knows how) but i managed to straighten it in the vice, first pic shows you need some half decent tools, dont even think about open ended spanners or it'll end in tears you need a good condition ring spanner (19mm and 17mm) which for clouting is better than a socket, second pic shows bush in arm, i have also added a grease nipple to every bush as i suspect any premature wear issues will be due to lack of lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich8v Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Id rethink the poly bushes mate, mine wore out in short time giving me some serious handling problems, i went back to oem and alls good now. Did you not fit the polybush kits that wifbitz sells? (cant remember which brand they are). Due to suplier issues I ended up with a set from paul and the R2 polyurethane kits turn up at the same time. The R2 bushes just seemed alot better quality and they certanly are better than my worn out stock bushes, although i only done 500 miles on them and at stock tt power. I fitted the steering rack polybush kit from wifbitz and it failed during the Mot for to much play???? So far I rate the R2 bushes based on them being a cheaper alternative to replacing the whole arms. Paul mac - good luck with the rebuild, certanly the best money i spent on my car refreshing all my suspension components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I used the poweflex kit, lasted about 6000 miles and two trackdays before they was fooked, hopefully the R2 stuff is better for you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 I fitted the steering rack polybush kit from wifbitz and it failed during the Mot for to much play???? Paul mac - good luck with the rebuild, certanly the best money i spent on my car refreshing all my suspension components. good feedback on the whifbitz bushs dude i have powerflex for the rack and anti roll bars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) This bush is called "spindle" in the R2 kit. This proved time consuming, without any pulley draws i had to resort to drilling/ burning the rubber out then you need to remove the steel sleeve from the housing, i carefully put a couple of hack saw cuts into it then popped it out with a small chisel, be careful not to go mad or you may damage the internal bore, last pic shows bush in position complete with grease nipple Edited May 31, 2010 by paul mac (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Fancy doing mine Paul Have my R2 bushes sitting here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Fancy doing mine Paul Have my R2 bushes sitting here not a chance mate , whatever Miko Supra was charging to do this was not enough , talking of which i found these threads usefull http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=162252&highlight=miko http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=110541&highlight=lower+arm&page=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 not a chance mate , whatever Miko Supra was charging to do this was not enough , talking of which i found these threads usefull http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=162252&highlight=miko http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=110541&highlight=lower+arm&page=2 Cheers for the links, I will have a read. Will probably tackle this over the winter months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) I removed the complete susbframe to renew my bolts etc, much easier to work on off the car. Edited June 1, 2010 by bignum (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) I removed the comlete susbframe to renew my bolts etc, much easier to work on off the car. Was just thinking that after seeing the pictures in the links posted by Paul. Other than removing the brakes etc it looks like about 10 bolts and the frame drops out. Edited May 31, 2010 by Steve (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Was just thinking that after seeing the pictures in the links posted by Paul. Other than removing the brakes etc it looks like about 10 bolts and the frame drops out. It is much easier with the subframe out. You're best to seperate the diff/driveshafts from the subframe for practicalities sake just so you can carry everything about. You would need to remove and re-fit the handbrake assemblies too though which is a bit of a PITA. I did a load of this stuff a while ago, ahh it brings back memories I posted some progress in this thread although it's not as well and methodically documented as this one, and I didn't go about putting nipples on things left, right and centre, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Was just thinking that after seeing the pictures in the links posted by Paul. Other than removing the brakes etc it looks like about 10 bolts and the frame drops out. Thats it 10 bolts + prop, exhaust etc, and then give the subframe a lick of paint while its off, liking the grease nipples idea paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 It is much easier with the subframe out. You're best to seperate the diff/driveshafts from the subframe for practicalities sake just so you can carry everything about. You would need to remove and re-fit the handbrake assemblies too though which is a bit of a PITA. I did a load of this stuff a while ago, ahh it brings back memories I posted some progress in this thread although it's not as well and methodically documented as this one, and I didn't go about putting nipples on things left, right and centre, lol. fully agree with the subframe out, choosing to leave the top arm as is really meant i didn't have to bother (fingers crossed i hope the other side is ok), good link to your thread (i did see it on a search but skipped past it, doh), as for nipples left, right and centre, can you ever have enough nipples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 fully agree with the subframe out, choosing to leave the top arm as is really meant i didn't have to bother (fingers crossed i hope the other side is ok), good link to your thread (i did see it on a search but skipped past it, doh), as for nipples left, right and centre, can you ever have enough nipples Nope, if in doubt, put a nipple on it I didn't plan to really update the thread I made so it doesn't look like it would be much use I can see why you'd skip over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 first pic, i didn't even give the passenger side drop links the pleasure of laughing at me and just took the grinder to it, there is no way these things will unbolt, second pic shows a "nice" uncorroded section of the ARB the third pic unfortunately shows what it looked like under the knackered bush, a good section of the ARB measures 21.25mm, the knacked bit measures 20.5mm with a noticable step, fitting the new Powerflex bush on the good section made for a nice tight fit, putting it on the nasty bit had it wobbling around all over the place. I have 2 options a new ARB from Mr T or an aftermarket stiffer one which from reading an excellent desciption from Mr Wilson here has really put me off, anyone know how much a stock one costs and thoughts on aftermarket ARB's for road use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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