GMan Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Hey all, I am mounting a transmission oil cooler this weekend in parallel with the stock Radiator cooling loop, I'd like to mount it after it has passed through the radiator. The problem is I don't know wich line is the input and which is the output. Thanks for any help Glenn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Take both lines off, extend into 2 bowls, turn engine over with igniter disconnected, the bowl with fluid in it is the one under the outlet side of the oil pump. The other is the return to the gearbox sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Top pipe flow, bottom pipe return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 (edited) Take both lines off, extend into 2 bowls, turn engine over with igniter disconnected, the bowl with fluid in it is the one under the outlet side of the oil pump. The other is the return to the gearbox sump. Sounds good I'll give it a go and let everyone know. Top pipe flow, bottom pipe return. Not the coolant mate, at the bottom of the rad are two lines that run ATF from the auto tranny through the radiator as a heat exchanger, I figure having the coolant go through that first will help shorten warm up time for the auto box, and once warm will take a large portion of the trany heat away like it's supposed to, afterwards it will pass through my auxilirary cooler mounted in the front bumper to shed even more heat. No need to remove the system that has obviously worked well enough for 18years just want to add some more cooling since I routinely see 220 to 240 kph on my weekly drive from Heidelberg to Frankfurt. Edited May 25, 2010 by GMan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Fluid flow is anticlockwise, look from the top, left hand pipe is the flow out of the gearbox. Mine has paralell coolers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Like I said. The top trans fluid pipe/hose is the flow, and the bottom is the return. Can't help some people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 (edited) Pointless anyway to first warm the fluid and then cool it before returning to the transmission. You need to re-think what you are trying to achieve. You need a stat in the system to allow the transmission fluid to get up to temperature before it goes through the additional cooler. Without a stat, the fluid will take a long time to get up to working temp, and in the winter it never will. Running constantly on cold fluid = buggered transmission. Mocal make a neat 1/2" bore stat, I will post a snap of it installed when I get home and on my own P.C. Edited May 25, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) Here is a snap of the Mocal stat I promised to post. The top pipe as they are routed along the side of the engine is the flow from transmission and bottom pipe the return. I have fitted a cooler to mine, because I am using an aftermarket radiator that doesn't have an integrated transmission cooler. The hoses and thermostat are fitted tight to the radiator to encourage fluid warm up, and there is a temp sensor all cosy in the insulation so I can check the transmission is up to working temp before making it work hard. The thermostat prevents the fluid circulating the cooler untill up to working temperature. For your application, the stat will need to be fitted after the 'in radiator' heater/cooler, and before the aftermarket cooler. I very much doubt you actually need an additional cooler, but if it makes you happy to have one, then to plumb it in the manner described will prevent any damage being caused to your transmission by constant cold fluid. Edited May 26, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-No-Knee Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Do you have a link for the stat you have shown?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 And thats partly why the rad is used as a cooler, its also a heater for cold fluid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) I bought mine from a trader on ebay, but they are made in the UK and are readilly available, just Google it. You will find the Toyota pipework is 9mm (3/8") and the Mocal stat is 1/2" (12mm) so you will need some adaptors too, and make sure you use the correct spec hose for oil, water hose looks the same, but will soon fail. Don't force the 3/8" pipe onto 1/2", it weakens it, this snap shows the adapters. Edited May 26, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-No-Knee Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Fantastic. Just found one that says it is a 3/8" fitting so thats the one for me, and a temp sensor housing as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Take both lines off, extend into 2 bowls, turn engine over with igniter disconnected, the bowl with fluid in it is the one under the outlet side of the oil pump. The other is the return to the gearbox sump. And make sure you get them the right way round. I did this a while back and got absolutely soaked in ATF when it blew into bottle containing the new stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 Like I said. The top trans fluid pipe/hose is the flow, and the bottom is the return. Can't help some people. Didn't mean it like that mate, on mine the transmission lines enter the rad at the same level at the bottom, neither is above or below the other so i was thinking all of them were this way, I guess not though. Looking at the pics I can tell you my lines look nothing like that, I am going to have to test it the way Chris suggested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 And make sure you get them the right way round. I did this a while back and got absolutely soaked in ATF when it blew into bottle containing the new stuff. I'll keep that in mind Thanks for the warning! I hate the smell and texture of ATF! only brake fluid is worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) It looks different because I have shortened one of the pipes and tweaked it away from the engine to make the pipe installation parallel, easier/neater, yet I guarantee that the top pipe as it comes along the side of the engine/sump is the flow, and the bottom pipe is the return. Déjà vu Edited May 26, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 It looks different because I have shortened one of the pipes to make the installation easier, yet I guarantee that the top pipe as it comes along the side of the engine/sump, is the flow. Déjà vu The top pipe along the side of the engine, now i understand what you mean, the confusion was that they come out at the front of the engine parallel. I like your set up with the thermostat, But Probably overkill for my n/a. I could smell the fluid after one of my extended high speed runs, and realized some additional cooling will help. It's a 5 pass Fram cooler so it would be probably only just be sufficient on it's own but should be enough for the high speed runs. I am mounting a manual bypass valve before the cooler and a y adapter after it, so i can bypass it during the winter months:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) Top pipe flow, bottom pipe return. Pointless anyway to first warm the fluid and then cool it before returning to the transmission. You need to re-think what you are trying to achieve. You need a stat in the system to allow the transmission fluid to get up to temperature before it goes through the additional cooler. Without a stat, the fluid will take a long time to get up to working temp, and in the winter it never will. Running constantly on cold fluid = buggered transmission. All the information you could ever need has been posted. Edited May 26, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 All the information you could ever need has been posted. Close the site JB, we're done here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Transmission cooling, right then, heres my 2p worth from running a Boostlogic built auto at 500hp for the last 4 years, firstly fit a temperature gauge, you have no idea whats going on temp wise until you do this, running at around 50 c is optimum and personally i peak at an absolute max of 90 c, the fluid will take higher temps but whats the point if you can keep it under control, my trans cooler fan kicks in at 80 c and as i have no rad connection is absolutely vital stuck in traffic, if you are connecting to the rad as previously mentioned this puts heat into the transmission when its needed so it doesn't matter a jot which way the cooler is connected. Thermostats, i went along with David2009's thoughts initialy some years back but after a thermostat malfunction nearly cooked my rather expensive transmission i kept it simple and adopted Dudes aproach of coolers everywhere (do a search) the transmission has now run fine for the last 3 years with no stat (and no radiator connection) and two coolers. Ducting, without total seal duct work on your cooler it is next to useless, have a look at the time and trouble Mr T spent on ducting the stock rad, lastly... Fluid, if you want the trans to last stick to the service intervals and change a percentage of the fluid regularly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 paul mac, You're spot on. A temp gauge tells all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) Edit Edited May 26, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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