j80leo Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I might be interested in one of these GB;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Agree with changing them as soon as they start to slip. Mine was making a squeek on startup and when giving it load from low rpm, tip-ex test showed it slipping. I left the car and didn't drive untill i managed to get a replacement. I let the car stand for a month while offshore working and i only started it to move it out of the drive to get it to the garage and the outer ring fell off as soon as i hit the starter. After looking at the bit that came off, i can only imagine the damage one of these would make at 5-6000rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I agree this is a vital component which I wasn't aware of that required replacing. Here is some information on it from when mine came off last month, I got lucky. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=215926&highlight=pulley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Titan pulleys are just rebadged ati units so basicly you pay for the titan badge Id use a fluidampr myself. Such an under rated product. http://www.fluidampr.com/ Ati's are still elastomer based and will still deteriorate over time. Looks good, how much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I lost mine and its looking like a few on the aristo forum have also lost their, luckily no damage but its not worth the risk. For the couple of hundred quid having it replaced will cost over the potential damage it could cause. Painting a line on it? How effective is that really? If it just lets go in a oner you'll be shagged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Looks good, how much? As above and is this better than buying OE from toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Painting a line on it? How effective is that really? If it just lets go in a oner you'll be shagged. You cant replace it every other month, I see it as good practice to fit a new one at cambelt time and paint a line on it, just incase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I still have an ultra low hours one from an engine on which I fitted it new, and that has been fitted with a Fluidamper thing at the customers request. These fit both TT and N/A (same part number). It's up in the Parts for sale section. Ring or e-mail, no PM's please. preferably always ring me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I still have an ultra low hours one from an engine on which I fitted it new, and that has been fitted with a Fluidamper thing at the customers request. These fit both TT and N/A (same part number). It's up in the Parts for sale section. Ring or e-mail, no PM's please. preferably always ring me Whats your thoughts on which way to go here Chris, money isnt the issue for me but just want the best be it either the O/E type or the fluidamper, saying that mines held out for 16 yrs and 130k so i might just go with O/E. Could these failing be anything to do with how there removed and refitted rather than age ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Could these failing be anything to do with how there removed and refitted rather than age ? Yes, sometimes garages use heat to take them off sometimes when doing cambelt changes. This weakens the rubber dampener and causes failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I would say definitely a stock one. My Skyline engine has cost a bomb, the cost of a Fluidamper was neither here nor there, but it has a re balanced stock damper on it. I don't believe the makers of these aftermarket dampers have the time or money to properly evaluate them on dozens of different engines. I might try one on an engine known to have crank harmonic issues, but why re invent the wheel when a stock one is cheap, and known to work fine? As for damper failures, well, the MKIV is of an age and price where people nail big turbos on patently tired and worn engines, often in a hurried and less than ideal way, to boot. If you think a 100.000 miler engine, as is, is a good candidate to try and double its power without a prior full engine rebuild, then you also probably like Jack in the Boxes, too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 As above and is this better than buying OE from toyota Id say thats all down to the way you use the car. If its not running stupid hp and always giving it constant abuse then i wouldnt change from stock. I do actualy agree with chris on this one as i highly doubt they have all been subject to test on every engine they make it for, more of make it to stock specs/sizes. Here's the link if your interested http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1527 Geoff's a sound guy, im sure he can help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) http://www.gatesgarth.com/Damper_Info.pdf for an in depth resume. Pages 9 and 10 are particularly salient. Edited May 24, 2010 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 You cant replace it every other month, I see it as good practice to fit a new one at cambelt time and paint a line on it, just incase. Didn't mean replace it every other month dude. How many of our clubs 10 year to 15 year old cars have even had it changed once? My point is on a post ten year old motor how effective is painting a line on it going to be? Really depends on how much time there is between partial and total failure doesn't it. If that time is a few hundred miles and you can rely on yourself to check it within that time frame then fair enough, however if that time is a matter of minutes then a line is little more than a placebo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 I would say definitely a stock one. My Skyline engine has cost a bomb, the cost of a Fluidamper was neither here nor there, but it has a re balanced stock damper on it. I don't believe the makers of these aftermarket dampers have the time or money to properly evaluate them on dozens of different engines. I might try one on an engine known to have crank harmonic issues, but why re invent the wheel when a stock one is cheap, and known to work fine? As for damper failures, well, the MKIV is of an age and price where people nail big turbos on patently tired and worn engines, often in a hurried and less than ideal way, to boot. If you think a 100.000 miler engine, as is, is a good candidate to try and double its power without a prior full engine rebuild, then you also probably like Jack in the Boxes, too So what would you run in my position Chris? The stock damper is not allowed in scrutineering, it is considrered unsafe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Didn't mean replace it every other month dude. How many of our clubs 10 year to 15 year old cars have even had it changed once? My point is on a post ten year old motor how effective is painting a line on it going to be? Really depends on how much time there is between partial and total failure doesn't it. If that time is a few hundred miles and you can rely on yourself to check it within that time frame then fair enough, however if that time is a matter of minutes then a line is little more than a placebo. The main reason for the line is to show that the noise you hear is the crankpulley, as the immediate thought is to replace the auxilery belt, as the the squeal sounds the same When just looking with the eye from above the car, there is no obvious sign the crankpulley is failing without the line. Hope that explains the reason for the line painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Some items should be just replaced rather than trying to squeeze every bit of life out of them so my crank pulley is being replaced asap. A bit like changing 15 yr old brake seals, okay they haven't gone yet but you know it won't be long before they do and then youre into calipers siezing and potentially much greater cost putting them right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Some items should be just replaced rather than trying to squeeze every bit of life out of them so my crank pulley is being replaced asap. A bit like changing 15 yr old brake seals, okay they haven't gone yet but you know it won't be long before they do and then youre into calipers siezing and potentially much greater cost putting them right. Totally agree, there have been a lot of crankpulley failures on the forum over the last couple of years, which demonstrates they have come to the end of their lives. So if you don't know if it's been changed before hand, then it should been seen as an important thing to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 What pulleys should be replaced? crank, cambelt pulleys, aux belt? or is that one ok? I guess you can just get a pulley set and it would replace them all? am I right? I have changed them on an mx-3 before....pain in the arse! looks easier to get to on a supra, does it take long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j80leo Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Can we see about getting this cheaper on a group buy, what do you guy's think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 What pulleys should be replaced? crank, cambelt pulleys, aux belt? or is that one ok? I guess you can just get a pulley set and it would replace them all? am I right? I have changed them on an mx-3 before....pain in the arse! looks easier to get to on a supra, does it take long? The cambelt pulleys will be fine, the problem is the crank pulley as it has an inbuilt damper which is the part that fails then it basicly falls apart. Regarding the belts it depends how old they are, if you dont know i'd replace them and possibly the tensioner pulleys. The crank pulley isnt cheap but dont go fitting a blingy billet type unless its got a damper built in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Can we see about getting this cheaper on a group buy, what do you guy's think? OE from Steve Manley is £279 full retail inc vat Glad i dont need one cheers CW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j80leo Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 OE from Steve Manley is £279 full retail inc vat Glad i dont need one cheers CW How much:blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 How much:blink: I can get you it a bit cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 The main reason for the line is to show that the noise you hear is the crankpulley, as the immediate thought is to replace the auxilery belt, as the the squeal sounds the same When just looking with the eye from above the car, there is no obvious sign the crankpulley is failing without the line. Hope that explains the reason for the line painting OK. Surely though its already failed if its squeeling? It will of course just fall off then the instant you take the belt off. Also being in a nit picky mood this morning (I think I have PMT lol) it would be the tensioner I'd suspect if hearing squeeling which is also an item that I would be very concerned about the repurcusions of letting go http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=600148&postcount=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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