dude Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Bad news Lee is that fitting a pump is an engine or subframe out job!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) does the casing look broken here? circled? looks like a bit broke off? or would be worth looking at the oil pressure switch...very common to go...a cheap fix if it is! It looks to me like where there is a lug on the std pump and its been broken off, it shouldn't cause a problem unless its gone into the main transfer gallery which is next to it. Please ignore the blue circle, i pinched the pic, its the extreme right lug on the pump you should look at. Lee have you checked to see if there is actually any oil in the sump now? the EGTs you are quoting are definitely too high, 950C is the absolute max you want to see, so that could have a bearing, but if Ryan mapped it, then something must have gone wrong for you to see those temps. Edited May 2, 2010 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 what!! FFS!!!! so this mayb a problem fixing any time soon not sure why the temps are hitting that? sounded like it started over boosting and spitting flames on gear changes too some thing has been going wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 and no not checked the oil or any thing since! i can do later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) sounded like it started over boosting and spitting flames on gear changes too Boost drops on gear change, flames are from unburnt fuel in the exhaust on overrun which is normal. There's a lot of speculation on what could have happened, you're only going to know for sure by getting it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing. Edited May 2, 2010 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 thats ok then cuz it looks awesome so how much of a pig is it to drop a subframe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Depends on the bolts etc. It is a bit of a pain though. Fair bit of labour involved bud, needs done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 so with the car how it is, is 10k to much to ask for it? found a lush bmw m3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Far easier to take the engine out id say, lee had mine out in about 3-4 hours. so with the car how it is, is 10k to much to ask for it? found a lush bmw m3 Id be surprised if anyone would pay 10k in it current state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) yea thats what i thought to both so i need to find some one that can take my engine out, try and get my car off the drive and to some where for repair all by jap fest! any takers?! Edited May 2, 2010 by L33 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 yea thats what i thought to both so i need to find some one that can take my engine out, try and get my car off the drive and to some where for repair all by jap fest! any takers?! Lee P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Lee P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! By japfest, no chance, Lee has them lined up at the min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Lee P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Join the queue.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 miles from me 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Have you checked the oil level yet mate? Or whipped off the coil cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) An oil pressure sensor failure or even the failure to the pump casing wouldn't explain the engine no-longer starting. Could be the timing star, but unless there's been an assembly hash, there shouldn't be any pressure on it to cause it to fail. edit: ignore me, got to the bottom of page 2, and didn't notice there was a page 3! Good spot on the Solaris plumbing into the oil sensor Jamie. Edited May 2, 2010 by TLicense (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) It looks to me like where there is a lug on the std pump and its been broken off, it shouldn't cause a problem unless its gone into the main transfer gallery which is next to it. Judging by how close it has broken off to the Toyota markings I would say it's highly likely to have breached the gallery. Of course all this is purely guess work until someone investigates. Picture courtesy of Smarty. Good luck with it all Lee, I really do hope it can be sorted quickly and painless for you. Edited May 2, 2010 by Miguel Typo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 One of the back if that helps Bigger one of the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 What do you mean bigger one of the front, it's the same size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Gutted for you, what a pita. Its going to be engine out by the looks of things. Like Jamie said the solaris will not let the engine fire if there is no oil pressue. If you have no pressure then either the pump is damaged or its dumped all the oil out from the pressure switch or some where similar. Thats a lot of oil to come out though so would have gone somewhere and made a mess. Chech the oil level but I think the pump is going to be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 What do you mean bigger one of the front, it's the same size Size is important Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Size is important Lucky mine grows when you click it then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Lucky mine grows when you click it then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 OK, worse for wear due to a heavy session down the White Lion, but here goes. The oil pump casing has, for reasons indeterminate, broken. The thicker gallery section (round protrusion by the casting break) is the suction side of the pump that connects to the oil pickup in the sump, via a gallery in the block. If the break has entered or cracked this section of the pump it will suck air, not oil, so zero oil pressure, but not a lot of oil leakage, as it's the SUCTION side. Something else has probably broken, and damaged the casting, hence the big bang. Did it, or does it have the small shock absorber used to damp the auxillary belt tensioner as used on manual cars? Anyhow, something in that area has broken the oil pump casting to the extent it now sucks air. Realistically the engine needs to be cleaned in that area and examined from underneath on a ramp. If it's run without oil pressure it may well have done horrible things to the crank bearings. Fitting a new oil pump realistically means engine out and sump off, so you could then check the bearings. I believe the oil pump damage is secondary to whatever went bang and went off for a walk down the road. Undertrays sever several purposes, one being containing all but the most determined of escapees from the engine Look for whatever went bang, almost certainly something rotating and hefty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) Has the aircon compressor seized up and overloaded the bracket, part of which goes onto the oil pump, and fractured it? I have found my glasses, it looks to me that you can actually SEE into the suction gallery of the pump! What's that ding in the air con pulley rim? Has something extraneous come loose and gone into the auxiliary belt, wiping out the bit of the oil pump casting as it was flung round? A good look elsewhere around the engine bay will reveal all, maybe nothing to do with the engine build at all.... What's that shiny thing to the right, near the air con compressor, external to the engine? Edited May 2, 2010 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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