David Reid Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Right since my last post (no cranking) I have got a bit further with getting my project car to run. Now I have the problem that I have no fuel being injected. The reason I say this is that I can get the car to briefly fire up if I spray easy start up the intake manifold. Therefore lack of fuel is the reason it wont run. I can confirm you can hear the fuel pump running and, if i crack open the return line from the rail it has fuel and is under pressure. It is quite possible that i have not connected something critical for injection so a list of suggestions of things to check would be great. So far I have checked the following are connected Crank position sensor (also must work as I have spark) Cam sensors Coolant temperature sensor Throttle position MAF My car is a real mix of bits this is what I have:- Car & vehcile loom = J spec TT Manual Engine = UK spec TT auto Engine loom = UK Spec TT auto ECU = UK spec TT manual The car is also converted to single turbo, and for the moment the MAF is installed on the turbo inlet, the car has a front mounted intercooler and all hoses are connected. The engine is fitted with its original 550cc injectors and I think I have refitted the reistor pack correctly. Any suggestions ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 You think you connected the resistor pack correctly? Id double check that lol. Fuses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Most of the things you've listed would still let the car start, it'd just run badly. Also you'd get fault codes thrown all over the place Can you hear the injectors ticking when it turns over? Have you got a spare injector you can plug into a connector and see if that actuates? Or pull a connector off and stick a multimeter in it, see if you get a ground switched in (resistance from infinite to 0 and back again rapidly) Have you got an immobiliser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Reid Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 You think you connected the resistor pack correctly? Id double check that lol. Fuses? It's not actually posible to connect it wrong, as it was original to the loom, and I have made sure all the connections onto it are pushed fully on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Reid Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Most of the things you've listed would still let the car start, it'd just run badly. Also you'd get fault codes thrown all over the place Can you hear the injectors ticking when it turns over? Have you got a spare injector you can plug into a connector and see if that actuates? Or pull a connector off and stick a multimeter in it, see if you get a ground switched in (resistance from infinite to 0 and back again rapidly) Have you got an immobiliser That was my thoughts I should have enough connected to make it run. I am not expectiong it to run without faults as once it's proven to work I will by a mappable ecu and take it to Ryan to map. I don't think it is firing the injectors( I can't hear them firing) I will try fitting an led to prove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 i had massive problem with my Z injectors, car woudnt fire. are none of them injecting/clicking? to test if they were clicking, i removed the CAS (crank anlge sensor) while its still connected, spin it by hand, to hear them clicking. you just want to trace how far the power/earth is getting from the car to the injector, e.g. the negative signals may be coming from the ECU, but getting lost in the loom (like a break/cut wire) it turned out on my Z that the conectors on the loom were awfully coroded, so the signal wasnt getting from the ECU to the injector. Or pull a connector off and stick a multimeter in it, see if you get a ground switched in (resistance from infinite to 0 and back again rapidly) that wont work, you need a Noid light to test the injectors (fiver on ebay) check the ECU, CAS, power suply, PTU/ignitor pack, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinBattye Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 firstly check to see if you have battery voltage at the injector plug.. you'll see the same voltage on each pin of the plug with the injector plugged in.. (this confirms the injector has continuity and the ballast box is ok). if you find you have V at the inj plugs then move to the ecu.. test with the ecu plugged in (so all relavent powercircuits are enabled) that you have V at the injector output pins.. this confirms the ecu can fire the injector.. crank the motor test the injector output pin.. the V will drop. (im guessing you dont have a meter with duty cycle or a scope) if the V is not dropping then the ecu is not seeing a crank position signal. if you have a spark you should have fuel at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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