jacking points bending/damaged

[downimpact]

All my jacking points are slowly getting bent and flattened against the body. This is obviously taking the paint and allowing surface rust. Is there anything I can do to stop this? New rail?

 

I can paint over the bent rail but wondered if there was a more satisfactory solution.

[Chris Wilson]

Don't use the factory jacking points, use the subframes. One of my most oppressive pet hates is dinged chassis rails and bent sill returns.

[downimpact]

This is where I'm going wrong , will have to buy a new jack thats low and long enough. Thanks.

[Dnk]

I made a hard nylon spacer with a slot cut out to fit over the seam then you don't bend it

[evinX]

this happened to me to, to the point where my floor pan slightly took a crease, nearly shed a tear over that:( but when it comes to my respray im going to pull mine back level, scrape all that rust of and get some oxide paint on it

[Shane]

I changed the front discs on mine yesterday and got throughly *.*ed off with having to jack the car up enough at the jacking point, then using an axle stand so I could get the jack further under the car to jack it up high enough from a decent point. Was wondering about making something like Dnk has but decided I would just look out for another trolley jack low enough to go under first time. My jacking points look horrible now.

[Guest Budz86]

Maybe a stupid question, but any idea of a hydraulic jack that is long/low enough to get under a standard supe and reach the sub-frame? I have a couple of pretty basic trolly jacks but they don't seem to be able to reach far enough

[brettjones]

i drive on to a brick then i can get my trolly jack under the car easy

[Shane]

i drive on to a brick then i can get my trolly jack under the car easy

 

I hate you!!

 

I didn't think of that, doh. Oh so simple.

[Dr_Doom]

I made up some basic wooden ramps at work. Drive onto them & there's plenty of room to get a normal sized jack under there. I used to drive onto a brick but i didn't like the way it ate into the tyre.

[Dnk]

I made up some basic wooden ramps at work. Drive onto them & there's plenty of room to get a normal sized jack under there. I used to drive onto a brick but i didn't like the way it ate into the tyre.

 

Same here, mine are 4" wide 18" long and 3" thick with a 30 degree angle cut on the ends, works a treat and much better than using a brick

Edited March 29, 2010 by Dnk (see edit history)

[bignum]

The "jacking points" are only for use with the crappy wind up jack that comes with the car, dunks is a good idea, i jack the back up under the diff and under the bottom arm/subframe for the front.

[brettjones]

Same here, mine are 4" wide 18" long and 3" thick with a 30 degree angle cut on the ends, works a treat and much better than using a brick

 

i dont have the space for long ramps in my garage so i just put a brick next to the front wheels and let the car push its self up

[Kirk]

The "jacking points" are only for use with the crappy wind up jack that comes with the car, dunks is a good idea, i jack the back up under the diff and under the bottom arm/subframe for the front.

 

As do i.. not like i could use the scissor jack anyway cause the previous owner decided he would crush all of the jacking points on the sills

[Scooter]

I don't even trust tyre places with my car now, I take the wheels there in my run around and fit them myself at home.........

 

I have made some seriously bulky wooden ramps from scaffold boards, 5-7 (can't remember off hand) thick.........they make getting the car (stock front bumper) up high a doddle although it needs a extra pair of eyes to guide you up them really.

[Suprab1]

Could someone post up pics of the places you jack them up with a trolley jack, i'm afraid i jack the car up and go threw the floor or bend/break something. Thanks.

[Guest Budz86]

I do have wheel ramps too but don't look like they would stay still when you drive a car onto them! Don't want to try then hear a loud crunch!

[Rajinder]

Could someone post up pics of the places you jack them up with a trolley jack, i'm afraid i jack the car up and go threw the floor or bend/break something. Thanks.

 

Here you go.

[Suprab1]

Here you go.

 

Good man, thanks mate.

[J_Supra_07]

Iv made a bit of wood that fits nicely infront of the wheels. Use a rack on subfame with stronge bit wood inbetween jack and subframe to prevent scratching.

[Chris Wilson]

I jack across where the pink arrows are, the alloy X member is self healing, corrosion wise, as the alloy won't rust as such, plus it's nearer the front for short reach trolley jacks and very strong. At the rear I jack under the differential.

[Rajinder]

I wanted to use the alloy X member where Chris has pointed out but looked very fragile, with the Supra's weight.

Will try next time.

[stevie_b]

Subscribed, interested.

[Chris Wilson]

I wanted to use the alloy X member where Chris has pointed out but looked very fragile, with the Supra's weight.

Will try next time.

 

 

It's fine, very substantial, and will stop damage to the sheet metal.

[stevie_b]

I know this is a real newbie question and I'll probably get slated for it , but is the differential the bulbous bit mid-way between the rear wheels? I want to make sure I'll be jacking it up at the right place.

 

Incidentally, is this why some (all?) trolley jacks are fitted with a cup on the jacking point, so it mates with the differential housing?