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Aero N/A T Complete


Davey001

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It sounds to me like you've done all the diagnostic work Homer - Vista + the USB faux serial port connection has always been a problem for these units, sadly.

 

The only good test would be to use an XP laptop with a pukka serial port and the Greddy cable. Probably a bit of an ask to find that lot lying around though.

 

-Ian

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Big thanks to homer and smarty for all there help on the usb but ive chucked it in the bin and ordered a giff tech one! Plugged it straight in and without out hanging any settings it loaded straight up! So my advice to anyone who ever need one of these cables dont order cheap ebay ones, get a giff tech or greddy one from the start!! Big thanks for the help tho!

 

Loaded the map from Dr jekyll and the readings i got where,

Cold idle 8.0

Warm Idle 8.9 - 9.0

What you guys think of these readings?

 

 

I was expecting

Cold 12 - 13

Warm 14's

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Glad you got it sorted Dave :)

 

That's very, very rich and you should not run the car like that at all mate

 

Send the map over and I'll take a look, will PM with my mail address.

 

What size injectors are you using and what fuel pressure (if using an aftermarket FPR)?

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Had the car out for a run today only covered around a mile just to see how it would run, it idled great no hicking, just smooth but afr still only read 11.2 when warm think was around 9.0 when cold. Didnt push the car at all as think its still rich but when i was driving at steady pace afr was reading 10.5 but when I throttled down it seemed to hold back and the afr dropped right down to 8.9 so think I need to make abit of adjustment on the Airflow adjustment volume on the side of the emanage. Never done anythink like this before so anyone got any pointers? Read the guide and tells you to go through the rpm and set everyone but how do I know when its correct? Apart from this the car took off, I would say twice as powerfull as it used to be, hit just under 1 bar boost and blew the intercooler pipe off but still had so much more to give!! So tightened all the clips back up again and they were fine on the next run! ooops! Just need a little advice on the final bit of tweaking if anyone has any info on this? Thanks David

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Don't use the adjustment dials on the side of the emanage, they should all be set to neutral. All changes should be made in the software.

 

What AFR's are you seeing at 1 bar? Is it steady through the rev range while on boost?

 

Also, have you figured out the datalog function? It's essential for tuning.

 

EDIT - could anyone who has a copy of the EMB software please mail it to me? homer at mkivsupra.net TIA :)

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Don't use the adjustment dials on the side of the emanage, they should all be set to neutral. All changes should be made in the software.

 

What AFR's are you seeing at 1 bar? Is it steady through the rev range while on boost?

 

Also, have you figured out the datalog function? It's essential for tuning.

 

EDIT - could anyone who has a copy of the EMB software please mail it to me? homer at mkivsupra.net TIA :)

 

Think I was seeing around 11.0 ish I havent looked into the data log function, like I say I know nothing about emb so its all a learning circle for me! :D

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Right, had a look at the map and I have major concerns, it's not really a map as such, just what look like guestimated adjustments to injector duty and some strange changes to the airflow map (not advised at this early stage as it can affect timing), until you get the wideband hooked up to the EMB and can datalog the runs you should NOT drive this car on boost.

 

There's also another issue as there's no adjustment made at idle so it should be seeing 14.7 afr's on warm idle. This needs to be solved before diring the car further otherwise you're going to get bore wash. I'll make some more checks....

 

Edit - have you done the throttle position calibration yet?

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Yes, it's on page 18 (titled 9 - Parameter setting)

 

BTW, the AAV settings on the main unit are not correct IMO, they should display -, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0 the map you send me is showing -, -1, 2, 0, 1, 1

 

Can you make a note to correct those before doing any map changes.

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Yeah I will do, So where can I got from here?

 

Need to solve the rich idle issue first. No point doing anything else until that is sorted. Try the changes I mentioned above and you can go from there. The throttle position calibration is really important as a start point.

 

Your map is adding 40% duty on idle at some throttle poisitions (wtf!) so if the throttle position is not calibrated correctly it'll run extremely rich.

 

IMO you should just get a mapper to map this for you. It could end in tears otherwise

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So do i start with a complete new map or work on the one i have?

 

Use the one you have, but looking at it there needs to be a lot of changes. That will go for any map you have though. In very simple terms maps are specific to the injector size/model, the turbo spec and the manifold. If there are differences in any between the cars then the map will need changing

 

Wonder if anyone on here has a map they could send me, I know daz did a na t conversion so he might have something to work on!!

 

As above, it'll only really be useful if you get one from a car with the same turbo and manifold. Injector size/model can be accounted for and adjusted accordingly.

 

If anyone else has a "mapped" map for an EMB (for an NA-T) it would be useful to Dave :)

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Use the one you have, but looking at it there needs to be a lot of changes. That will go for any map you have though. In very simple terms maps are specific to the injector size/model, the turbo spec and the manifold. If there are differences in any between the cars then the map will need changing

 

 

 

As above, it'll only really be useful if you get one from a car with the same turbo and manifold. Injector size/model can be accounted for and adjusted accordingly.

 

If anyone else has a "mapped" map for an EMB (on an NA-T) it would be useful to Dave :)

 

Yeah if anyone had anything it would be a big help! :)

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You are going down a commonly fatal route here. YOU CANNOT JUST TRY OTHER PEOPLE'S MAPS and run it like that. The car should not be run without a competent mapper on the keyboard from the first time a spark event occurs. I did nothing more than checked basic sensor set ups in my Motec until the Motec guy was all connected up to the ecu. For sure it was tempting to start it, but then it becomes tempting to drive it, then to "try a touch of boost". An engine can easily be knackered in 15 minutes of running with a silly map in it. 15 seconds or less under boost! PLEASE wait until someone is there that can map this thing, or you may find it all ends in tears!

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