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Need help diagnosing an issue, missfire


T2 MSW

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Had an odd issue for a while which I need help in fixing.

 

Was most apparent when the car was recently on the dyno being mapped and the issue occured on almost every run but not when out on the road.

 

Firstly I dont believe this is an issue related to being on boost, The car will do the same thing when just cruising and any speed but its completly random when it does it.

 

Basically on cruise the car will loose all power and then a few seconds later its fine. It feels like the AEM is ripping all the timing.

On boost (and when on the dyno) again the car feels like its ripping loads of timing away and it will severly backfire when on full boost ever so oftern. Ryan suggested the AEM was detecting a knock on the dyno and pulling the timing, Im sure he said he could hear it on the det cams too. He suggested the Ignitor may be on the way out but ive changed that and its not helped.

 

Next on the list is to check the plugs one night this week but they are almost new. Check the coil packs but again they are all new and the clips same as the packs.

Edited by JustGav (see edit history)
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Didnt Ryan notice anything during the run, EGTs, AFR, timing changes etc? What condition is your ignition wiring in? I changed the coil pack clips on my Aristo the other week, ended up partially rewiring it because alot of the insulation had broken up on the coil pack loom. Might be worth stripping back the conduit and checking the state of the wiring.

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EGT I cant say as thanks to a supplier in the USA I have no EGT readouts currently. The AFRs were uneffected.

 

On the dyno it was detected as a knock and the AEM ripped the timing away, Im sure Ryan said he could hear it on the det cans too. But then it never did it on the road. Ill check the coil pack loom condition when I check the plugs tonight put from when the engine came out last year I checked then and it was in good condition.

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Ok ive checked all the plugs tonight photos below and I can see any issues with any of them. However I have found one of the injector connectors I can get to is just placed on the injector connector. The wire is also bare from what looks like where something external connects into.

 

Can you get injector connectors as replacment items and are they as easy to fit as the coil pack clips?

 

Even with the above I dont think this its causing my issue, I fail to understand why if its an ignition problem i dont get just a missfire? I woudl have though it would miss and you would hear it and perhaps feel it alittle. When this occurs it feels something in the region of a RLTC hard cut.

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Edited by T2 MSW (see edit history)
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What the hell is going on with that injector? From the picture it looks like there is a wire tapped into the injector wiring that goes off somewhere, but the insulation has melted?!

 

If you've got a bad/overheating connection on injector #2 because of that, then chances are it is sometimes not openeing for as long as it should - runs lean, detonation. Or doesn't even open enough to get ignition, so misses a whole beat or two, runs on 5 cylinders.

 

That nasty looking thing is where I'd start investigations.

 

-Ian

 

edit - is that a melted scotchlok?! :eek:

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What the hell is going on with that injector? From the picture it looks like there is a wire tapped into the injector wiring that goes off somewhere, but the insulation has melted?!

 

If you've got a bad/overheating connection on injector #2 because of that, then chances are it is sometimes not openeing for as long as it should - runs lean, detonation. Or doesn't even open enough to get ignition, so misses a whole beat or two, runs on 5 cylinders.

 

That nasty looking thing is where I'd start investigations.

 

-Ian

 

edit - is that a melted scotchlok?! :eek:

 

Cheers Ian, Believe it or not thats how the alarm fitters tapped into the igntion system. Its very next on the list to sort out this weekend. I have got a second hand loom from M_Life's car which he has kindly offered me the injector connectors from. Were going to chop it off and connect the wiring correctly.

 

The clip is actually broken too and just sits on the injector, you can remove it with no effort what so ever.

 

Even still I would ask the question would the injector not firing and missing a run maybe two cause detonation or a knock?

Edited by T2 MSW (see edit history)
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The issue is a strange one and i would say either related to a problem somewhere in the ignition system or the valves (maybe sticky).

 

When the miss happens it creates a nice knock in the engine which the aem detects are knock and then it pulls the timing back but this is after the event has occured.

 

Saw this once before and it was a faulty ignitor but as thats not curred it i would looking into the following:

 

Swap Dli with known good one and check earth is good!

Check timing star on crank is secure and not loose

Check crank sensor and cam sensors are securely tightened.

Swap cam sensors around (only one is used by aem so will rule out fauly sensor)

New crank sensor

Finally check valve clearances

 

Ryan

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When the miss happens it creates a nice knock in the engine which the aem detects are knock and then it pulls the timing back but this is after the event has occured.

 

Swap cam sensors around (only one is used by aem so will rule out fauly sensor)

 

 

Are you reading the above M_Life, Sensor's lol

 

Ryan do you know if the AEM uses the front or rear sensor?

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Even still I would ask the question would the injector not firing and missing a run maybe two cause detonation or a knock?

 

Well I did cover it in my post, albeit briefly. Here's my thinking in more detail. Obviously the scotchlok fitting was a bodge, and the scotchlok itself has melted. Melting = heat, and the way you get heat with wiring like that is from too much current is going through too thin a wire.

 

So this implies that the scotchlok has, in its own special way, cut through too much of the wiring.

 

The injector works by opening when current flows through it. The more boost you run or the higher the rpms, the longer the injector is open for so the more current it gets over time. If the wiring is now thin because too many strands were cut, it'll heat up when the duty cycle goes up, and resistance will go up with it. This then means that not enough current reaches the injector and control of it goes haywire - it doesn't open long enough, not enough fuel goes in, too lean a mix, and the result is detonation.

 

While it sounds like something Dr. House would come up with, it does actually fit all the symptoms - intermittent misfires, causes knock, nothing shows up in the datalogs. And you've got the smoking gun of the melted scotchlok showing that it's heated up significantly before...

 

How's that for input ;)

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if you have time, try to open your ECU and check if all components are ok.. it took me almost a year to find out whats causing the misfire on my supra, i already disassembled the dashboard to check the wire harness,changed my ignition coil, plugs, HT leads, distributor caps, rotor, until just recently out of desperation i opened my ECU, it was then that i found out there was 2 capacitors and 2 diodes that got fried..

 

 

check my thread..

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=210732

 

hope this helps...

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Cheers for the detailed explination ian :thumbs: I sahould point out it's not a melted scotchlok it's that black goo stuff used to seal things. The actual wire is soldered on all be it very badly. I'll remove the alarm wire and fit a new connector this weekend. The alarm wire is the pickup for the antijax on the Clifford I believe and I can turn that off.

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